Help with goldtips please

[vintage-bears]

I need some assistance guys.

I fletched up a dozen goldtip 3555 blems and installed the accompanying factory inserts.
I did not cut the shafts at all. I think their 30" or so.They fly great with 125 field tips.They look great in flight and have tight groups. Im shooting a 55 lb recurve and then tried a 51lb recurve....Same results.

BUT.....They got real wierd as soon as I shot them with broadheads. Im using screw in 125 grain Wensel Woodsman heads.
The shaft is clearly out of whack in flight and the arrow is diving down!!!

No experience at all with carbons.......HELP!

..........Philip

[cacciatore]

Philip,carbon act pretty different than other materials,I think you can be a little underspined.If you can take a look at the Stu calculator it helps.Some guys here can give you a link,if you don't find it somewhere here.You have to make some bare shaft testing too.

[rastaman]

Make sure your broadheads are spinning without a wobble also...and what is your drawlength?

[macbow]

One thing you can eliminate is the broadhead, WW's fly better than most.
It does sound like the spring might be a little weak. As rastaman was indicating you might have room to shorten them.

[njloco]

Did you try moving your string nock up or down ?

[vintage-bears]

Thanks guys.
I did try moving the String nock with no improvement.
Some say arrows should be shorter to stiffen them or go heavier on the broadhead? I was never really good at arrow tuning.
I appreciate your advice guys.

[ranger 3]

More weight on front will weaken it. I would say if you can cut them down a little at a time with a high speed cut off saw.

[vintage-bears]

Thank you all.

[John146]

Vintage, I have a small brochure that I got at Black Widow Bow Company from Ken Beck on tuning Gold Tips that would be of great help to you. I have been using Gold Tips since that time. When I saw Ken shoot a bare shaft 30 yards like a dart that sold me.Your Gold tips have inserts that allow you to add weight inside the shaft. They also have inserts for your nocks that allow you to add weight to the back if you need to stiffen your spine. I cut mine to the length I want and then start tuning with my BH weight and shaft weights upfront to get my spine right. PM me if you want this brochure and I can scan it and send it in an e-mail.Todd

[joekeith]

I shoot the same arrows, full length with 200 grn. BH .  I like them big ol' wide 2 blade Sharks.  I have an xtra 100 brass insert on some of them but don't notice any real diff.  I shoot these in bows from 50-60#,love 'em.  

[longbowben]

You need way more weight up front at least 125gr more.

[vintage-bears]

Thanks for replying guys!
I thought if I add more weight up front that it would weaken the spine of the arrow?
It's very strange.
With 125 field points, they fly true and like darts with tight groups.
The screw in wensels 125, the arrow goes wild in flight Entering from the left and diving down with most shots missing the deer target.

[Marc B.]

Before I went back to POC I was shooting GTs in my 50# 62 Kodiak. I went full length 35-55 with Super Razorheads and they fly like darts. I think at 55# you may be slightly underspined.

[Bud B.]

I shoot full length 3555 GT blems out of my 50@28 older Bear Super Grizzly with 175gr two blade broadheads and get great flight. I draw it the full 28.

Do you shoot a double string nock or single?

If single, try tying a nock opposite of the one you have and see what happens. I use two tied on string nocks to straighten my flight on all my bows. I shoot two under.

[longbowben]

An arrow that is way off can show the opposite like yours what is happening.Field points can shoot well even when an arrow is no where close to being set up right.Trust me add 250-280 to the front of your arrows and they will fly like darts.

[trick00]

I would bareshaft one and see how it flies, without the broadhead of course. Its been my experience that once I get a bareshaft to fly like a dart that a broadhead will do the same.

[Ron Vought]

Weight those GT 35/55's up! I like a 175 grain point and 50 grain brass insert. They will fly like a dart out of any vintage or modern bow 45-50# range.

Ron

[Pointer]

Philip...first...dont ask Carlo...he only uses 2016s...lol

If you are still drawing 29" like you used to I think you are going to need the 5575s. When I made the switch to goldtips I found them a little underspined for my 30" draw..Icouldn't shorten them because of my draw length and they con't come any longer...I actually use 5575s for bows as light as 46lbs.

I tried the 35/55s with a 3blade off of a 50lb bow and had the same problem you are having. Setting up with the cock feather in did help flight a little bit but it was barely acceptable. My field points flew perfectly but a 3 blade muzzy gave me a flying corkscrew on the 35/55.

I know the first thought is to manipulate the spine with more point weight or shortening the arrow but it just never really worked for me with those shafts..I 55/75 on all my bows now and it doesn't matter if I use 2,3 or 4 blades on bows that range from 45 to 54lbs

good luck

John

[vintage-bears]

Hi John , hope all is well as I haven't seen you in a long time.
I think everything you say is correct. Im gonna pick up 5575s and experiment.

Back to my 2016 arrows for now!

........Philip

[RM81]

I agree with longbowben.  I'd add a heavier point first to test before cutting them.  I shoot 3555 and 5575 GT blems.  

If you do try some 5575's, you'll have to add a bunch of weight to the front.  I shoot them out of my 57# R/D longbow with about 250 grains up front.  I shoot the 3555's out of my 53# bow with about 200 grains up front.

Before buying new shafts or cutting the 3555's, I would just try a heavier point and do some bareshaft testing.  I'm pretty sure you can get them to work with your bow.  I'd also check that the nocks aren't too tight and your nocking point is right.  Shaft spine usually affects and arrow left and right.  Up and down is typically nocking point, nock tightness or flecthing contact.