new member here...help please?

[darin putman]

Welcome, I,m not an expert but from my experience you may want to try a few. You might be suprised at what you shoot best. There were bows I wanted and bows I could shoot, after a little buying and trading found what I needed. One day I'll try a few more but doubtful I'll find one that I can shoot any better than my little old Crooked Stic, it just agrees with me as to were the arrow should go. Good luck finding the ones that agree with you!!!

[TJK68]

Welcome, sounds like you have a good handle on things starting out any of the bows mentioned above would be great, and I would also like to mention a Quinn Stallion. These are outstanding recurves not just for the beginner but for any one. Hard shooting,quiet, good solid bows. You can find them once in a while on the classifieds or buy a new one for around $275 I believe. I have one and so does a buddy and we love them. Just my 2 cents. Good Luck and enjoy.
Tom

[legends1]

Welcome to tradgang,your questions are very common.Take a look at our website if I can help you with more questions let me know.

[30coupe]

You can often find lefty bows a lot cheaper than right hand bows due to lower demand. That said, I would try to shoot some left hand bows and some right hand ones if I were you. Instinctive shooting can be done with cross dominant eyesight. My daughter does it. You may have an occasional issue early on, but that can be minimal.

Changing from right to left can be done, but may not be necessary, especially since you have been shooting a compound that way.

I would say starting with 45# as a maximum would be wise. You will probably not draw 29" with a traditional bow either, by the way. Lighter is better until you get your form ironed out. Aside from the fact that being overbowed can cause form problems, heavier draw weights can also mask some form errors. Also a light bow will let you shoot more without fatigue.

I just bought a 40# bow for form work, and wow, can I tell a difference in my shooting already! Form errors are magnified with the light bow. I still make some, but my groups with both the lighter bow and my 50# hunting bow are shrinking rapidly.

There are a bunch of Tradgangers from MO who may be able to give you a hand too. You may want to start a thread to find some of them, though lots of them will probably be in the woods now.

Oh, and welcome aboard!

[Capnrock]

Well, after some thought maybe I should just stick to RH shooting.  Just thought I may as well give LH a try.  Not many starter/beginner bows out there in the ads it seems anyways...

[KentuckyTJ]

Welcome from Kentucky!

[Capnrock]

What do you look for in a used bow?  How do I know what I am getting?  I don't want to get taken.  Honestly as of now I am looking at mamber#, and amount of posts.  I know thats not perhaps the way to do it, but like I mentioned my knowledge is squat about recurves.  I do understand that member# doesn't = experience.  I am just unsure and need perhaps a well trusted member to guide me on this purchase that I can message and ask questions, maybe?

[Capnrock]

Kentucky TJ....huge Wildcat fan here in MO....
Thanks for the welcome too!

[Widow's Son]

Good choice to start with a 45# bow. You may find no need to move up in poundage. My go-to bow is a 1969 Bear Super Kodiak 45#. My Black Widow is 46#. Don't forget to check out the on-line auction house. I've picked up two vintage Bears for around $200 each on the site. Just because it costs alot doesn't mean it's a good bow for you. I hunt with a bow that I payed $50 for in a pawn shop and have a $800 semi-custom bow that mostly hangs on the wall. Go figure.

Good Shooting
Ross

[Capnrock]

If you are willing to help me pick out my first traditional, and get my feet wet and would rather message me that is fine as well.  Thanks

[Stinger]

Randy, I see that nobody answered your question about hand shock.  When I talked about mass weight what I was getting to was feel of the bow rather than hand shock.  For me, a heavier riser is more stable in my hand, meaning I don't torque it as much on release as I do a lighter bow.  Others would completely disagree.  It's a personal preference.  I have found hand shock to be more of an issue with limb design or limb timing than riser weight.  I had a '66 Bear Kodiak that was the most evil shooting bow I've ever shot.  I watched someone else shoot it one day and saw the limbs flying all over the place.  No wonder it was a handful to shoot.  I'm smart enough though to know that most Kodiaks don't shoot like that.

[Widow's Son]

Wish you were closer Capnrock. I've helped quite a few people with traditional archery thru the years. Four people I actually gave bows to after they showed continued interest. Should have seen the look on the one guys face when I told him to take that Sky Eagle takedown bow home with him. Dang, and I've still got too many bows. LOL

Ross

[Capnrock]

Wow Ross, I wish I had your problem with too many bows...thought that would be like having to much money!!! lol.  After typing that my wife reminded me of the five Mathews wheelies I have lying around, so I understand now.

[Sirius Black]

Welcome!

[legends1]

Welcome, Please check out our custom made bows at our website!

We build recurve as well as longbows.

Thank you,