Carbon arrows strike fear in the hearts of some...but there is no need for it.(I used to be one of those guys)
Don`t be afraid to put some weight on the front, and don`t cut your new shafts AT ALL, until you try them.
I agree with Rufus about the sound wood arrows make when shot...it is indeed gentle. I did some experiments over the years and began squeezing automotive silicone into the insert end of the arrow. It adds weight, doesn`t seem to change spine much (like adding a bit of tip weight), AND it makes the arrow sound and feel more like a wood shaft.
I do not bareshaft my arrows anymore...I fletch one up, full length...with the tip weight I want and the approximate total weight I want. I then shoot it through paper at ranges from point blank out to about ten yards. I then cut the shaft or add weight to the tip as I think necessary, in order to get a perfect tear through butchers wrap paper.
I cut my carbons very carefully with a Dremel rotary tool, using the little disc cutter wheels. Do NOT sniff the freshly cut carbon as you would Cedar...LOL.(seriously...there is a dust created when cutting that CANNOT be good to breathe)
I use a bit of hot melt glue to temp. secure the insert. GENTLE heat applied to the field tip has never caused grief when I wanted to remove an insert. Also, I have actually started relying on hot melt as a permanent install of inserts...(not 100% permanent...have had inserts come out like this)
With your set up, I would personally start with a full length Gold Tip 35/55 and a 175 or 200 grain head. Total weight around 425 or so.
I have found a nock that is too tight is a problem carbons don`t like.
You don`t get to know every arrow as you build it like with wood, but carbons can last long enough to get a history with you.
Good luck...