arrow tuning problem

[blakeschack5466]

so here is the story...

im shooting a samick sage cut to center recurve that is #57.5 @ 29". brace height is 7.25".

so i get a carbon express heritage test kit.

i put 100g on the 150 and let it fly bareshaft and full length...nock left

i put 100g on the 250 and let it fly bareshaft and full length...nock left

i put 100g on the 350 and let it fly bareshaft and full length...nock left

now i begin cutting the shaft, a quarter inch at a time, from 32" all the way down to 30" and still get a big nock left.


i cant cut the shaft any shorter and i would rather have like 200g up front. what can i do?
has anyone else had this problem?

[slivrslingr]

Put the weight you want up front and try again.  Sounds like you're getting a false result.  If you have enough shafts that you can fletch some of each, I'd try this:

 http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

[cahaba]

250's should be the shaft. Play with the weight up front. Also move your knocking point.

[snag]

I agree with Cahaba. The 250's have a spine weight equivalent to about 85#. With 225gr points (100gr brass insert + 125gr point..one option) they should bare shaft nicely. This is assuming your draw length is 29"..?

[blakeschack5466]

so i went out and tried again this morning. before i went out i changed my brace height to 8".

first i took three of my fletched arrows and shot a three inch group at ten yards. next i shot the 250 with 260g (my preferred weight). it hit slightly low and slightly right with an extreme nock left.

then i proceded to fire the 250 with every point weight all the way down to 100g, and EVERY time got the exact same results.

this was with a full length 250.

then i started changing my nock point 1/16 at a time. it made me hit a foot low and a foot left. i felt like i was throwing curve balls because i could see the arrow sharply curving in the air.
so i put the nock point back where it was.

my draw is 29", i am right handed, and im shooting off the shelf with loop side velcro on the shelf and side plate.

[JamesKerr]

I do not pay any attention to the nocks orientation when I am bare shaft tuning. Just get your bare shafts to group with your fletched arrows and you should be good to go.

[Gump21Bravo]

It could be a form issue. Watch your string hand and pay close attention to the position of your hand when you release and reach your anchor. If its anything but straight and relaxed your plucking the string and that is where your false reading is coming from. I know this because I am going through the same problem atm myself. Keep your hand straight with your arm and elbow.

Good Luck. If you feel your form is not the issue disregard my post.

Craig

[AkDan]

Right hand, nock left bare shaft..weak.   I dont know the spine of them, I dont tinker with carbons often.   but bareshafting WILL tell you whats wrong!  It takes some pretty bad form for it to give you totally bad info.   Get close shoot a few see what its telling you.   Do the 350s fly less nock left than the 150s?  I'd ASSUME the 350's are stiffer (again not familiar with them at all!)


I like the group testing to confirm/fine tune but prefer bareshafting to start.   Kinda hard to start group testing (ol's method) when your about breaking arrows in the targets lol!!!   Doug fir flying sideways is quite the site to see upon impact    .  

slow down buckeroo!   work on one thing at a time!!!  nock point brace heigth...points fletches bareshafts...confuuuuusing!!!   change ONE THING at a time!  stick with working on spine and brace height (they go hand in hand), get your lefts/rights atleast close.  And than move to your nock point (assuming its not terribly off to begin with).  I like starting around 3/8 above and usually have to come down a little, every person/bow combo is different.  Its a place to start knowing you're not going to bust your arrow in half on release.  

If your arrow IS weak...raising the bh or moving the side plate out (stick a pressure point under it first and on the shelf at the throat of your grip with a gap in the corner of your shelf-sitewindow) will effectively stiffen the dynamic spine.  

When I do play with carbons/alums which is pretty rare, I dedicate a couple to test arrows...starting with full length and start cutting them down till I get to where they need to be.  I did have a stint with goldtips a ways back and gave it up pretty quick.

another way to stiffen the spine is to add weight to the nock end...change strings from a skinny to a regular, or a ff/dynaflight to a b50.

[Running Buck]

Agree with building the side plate out. Try a piece of leather boot lace about a half inch long behind the plate material. sometimes you need to split the leather lace if its too thick.

[Piratkey]

Your arrows dont hit the rest plate????