Arrow spine starting place for new archer

[Cryogenic]

I am new to archery and I am still working on developing a consistent form that is “mine”.  Once I have my form nailed down and I am able to group arrows well at 20 yards or so I will begin the process of tuning a set of arrows to my bow.  Until then, I need a little help....

I have a Howard Hill longbow marked 60# at 31.  I draw about 28 or 29 (50-53 lbs on a scale at 28-29 inches).  I have a dozen GT Traditional 3555 arrows with various field point weights.  The folks at my local shop said that full length (32 inch) 3555‘s with a 125 gr. point should work well, but they are mostly compound shooters.  My question to all of you is this:

Are 32 inch GT 3555 Trad’s with a 125 gr point a good place to start until I can develop the consistency to actually tune the arrows to my bow?

Thank you all very much!

[Pat B]

Talk to a reliable fletcher,(not a pro shop employee) tell them what you have bow wise, your shooting style, draw weight and length and let him suggest an arrow or a range of arrow spine that should work best for you. After that it is up to you to determing which arrow and arrow set-up works best for you.

[Cryogenic]

Pat,  I would love to be able to do that, but I do not know of a reliable fletcher in my area.

[Razorbak]

since the bow is not center cut and it takes more to bend around the handle..the shaft spine is good but I would cut it down to 1" past your draw and use what ever point that the bow dictates wether its 125 to 200 grains..especially if you raise the point weight..bow will perform better and you raise the weight of the arrow which in turn will allow some good KE versus a lighter weight arrow

[Pat B]

There are plenty here on TG. Contact one or a few personally and ask. If you are buying arrows any good fletcher should help you out.

[Orion]

I agree with Razorback that the arrows you have should work fine, and you probably don't need the extra length.  If they feel a little stift (shoot to the left) after you shorten them, just do as Rzorback suggests.  Add a little more point weight.

[LarryP243]

i am new to the trad gang world also . now i am confused, according to the gold tip charts you should be shooting the 55/75's from a longbow in that draw weight range. i hope they will shoot as they are what i have now.

[Cryogenic]

Thank you all for the replies!  Based on what I've learned, I think I will pick up a range of field points and experiment a little.  I am glad to learn that the arrows I have should function well.

Larry,

You may take a look at Stu Miller's Dynamic Spine Calculator.  It generates what seem to be reasonably accurate results. Of course they are theories on paper, but it may give you a place to start.  I have learned a lot just toying with the calculator.  Just Google the name of the calculator and you'll find it.

[DamselflyFarm]

Cryogenic, you can buy a test set of field points that comes with two points of various weights. 3Rivers has tham as do other suppliers, I suppose. Good luck.

[Benny74]

Start with the calculators and the spine charts.  research the process of tuning with bare shafts regarding knock high or knock left etc.  

You are smart to work on your form first.  Keep in mind that you need to start with the correct arrow setup for reliable results.  You wont likely be able to shoot at 20yds like you want until you have the right setup.

Start at 20 feet with bare shaft tests to tune then with fletched arrows.  The general rule is 1.5 inches minimum beyond your draw length for the arrow.  I prefer 2 inches on my recurve.

Play around with the spine calculators.  You will learn a lot by experimenting with different weight tips etc.

If you are shooting your arrows at 32" which is full length for many then you might want to move up in spine stiffness.  check out the chart for your arrow based on your bow weight etc.

[Fanto]

good starting point? yes. for sure.

buy a couple of bareshafts, or wait til a few feathers are looking sad then strip a couple of arrows, and bareshaft tune if you see the need to.

if your arrows go where you want them to, and the point weight is enough for you, then leave them alone and don't worry about it!

[LEWIS VADEN]

LarryP243 they are talking about a Hill Style Bow.  They are a different animal than your typical r/d longbows.

[Cryogenic]

I already have one bareshaft ready to go do to an unfortunate encounter with a lawn chair.

I'd like to stick with a 125 gr broadhead due to the fact that it's a common weight.  My intent is to determine a field point weight that works and then stack weights behind a 125 gr broadhead to match the field point weight.

Is this a valid plan?