Yeah what I was thinking was to help recycle some of the pine trees on the property, but if I do I will definately keep an eye on on the grain of the wood.
I was looking at the dowel maker you were talking about Jake, and the item you were talking about for $45 is actually the insert to the dowel maker. I would need to buy the dowel maker (which is the "Basic Dowel Maker 1"") for $195 and the 5/16", 3/8" insert for the $45. What I want to try to do is mitigate the costs as much as possible and provide a penny pinching way to do so.
I've actually decided I am going to settle on the method used by Volkmar Hübschmann (from the book "Bow Accessories":
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bow+Accessories+Book_i7830_baseitem.html), and create a shaft planing box out of angled steel profiling bars, 4 square steel bars, a 2x4, and wing nuts. It uses a hand planer (which I already have), and an adjustable (through the wingnuts) "V" groove cut 2x4 (in the book he used Pertinax), by which he can adjust the height of the pertinax to his running rail (made of square steel bars) which provided the running surface for his hand planer, so that he can change the relation of the pertinax to his running rail allowing him to adjust the diameter of his desired shaft. He had it set to where either ends of the pertinax (two wing nuts)could be adjusted so that he could create tapered shafts if he so desired.
I know it's kind of hard to explain and I'm sure the picture of his design isn't coming across clearly for those who don't own the book. But believe me the concept and design is really simple. The hardest part is using the hand planer to shave off the edges of the square shaft. Which then once that's done he uses a smoothing box (openable 2x4 box with two different size diameter holes drilled out using a router, and a brass rail clamped with screws to hold the sandpaper in) to make final adjustments to the diameter he desired which in his case was 9mm or approximately 11/32" = .34375
Once I get the materials and get it going I will definately post pictures. I would like to do a few shafts to ensure the method is reliable (to make sure I follow his design right
) and to see how efficient it is in a reasonable amount of time.
I decided to go this route as opposed to using a steel plate with holes drilled in it, is that is relatively dangerous! I would have to support the other end of the shaft from wobbling as I use the drill to pass the shaft through the plate. So it's better to be safer than sorry, and plus we don't have a drill press (just an electric drill and drill bits lol).
So I'll look into the materials and go from there!
Topic: Pine Arrows? (Read 356 times)
