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Seal skin and Barge
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Topic: Seal skin and Barge (Read 391 times)
stripe55
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 69
Seal skin and Barge
«
on:
December 09, 2012, 10:25:00 PM »
Just put on new rest, ideally how long do I need to wait to shoot off that without separation?
Thanks for any and all
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"no sleep 'til 55"
Orion
TG HALL OF FAME
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 8277
Contributing Member
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #1 on:
December 09, 2012, 10:27:00 PM »
Can shoot it right away. Barge cement is a contact cement. If you put it on both bow and leather, let dry and then press together, it bonds immediately.
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pdk25
TG HALL OF FAME
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 4946
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #2 on:
December 10, 2012, 01:26:00 AM »
I put a thin layer on both the rest and shelf and wait until tacky, then put the rest on and clean up the excess around the rest. I always wait til the next day to shoot. It may stay put, but I don't think that the bond is that strong right away. Maybe I don't let it dry enough, but that is what I do.
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Doc Nock
TGMM Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 9234
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #3 on:
December 10, 2012, 08:31:00 AM »
Orion,
Not to be contrary, but whenever I did the "shoot soon after" it came off in a few days.
Of course, that could be that I just put too much on... but I would let the two coated parts sit till they got tacky and then put together...
Now I do as pkd25 and wait till next day to shoot it---at least overnight. But that was with the "OLD" Barge with toluene in it. There is another thread on alternatives to it now that it's been sanitized for idjuts who try to get high huffin glue fumes! :(
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The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!
TGMM Family of the Bow
Sasquatch LB
Guest
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #4 on:
December 10, 2012, 01:01:00 PM »
It just takes a thin layer on both surfaces, let it dry until tacky, press together and you're good to go when it's totally dry (you can hit it briefly with a hair dryer to speed things up). The new Barge (blue & white packaging) doesn't work as well as the older stuff (red and yellow package) IMHO.
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Doc Nock
TGMM Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 9234
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #5 on:
December 10, 2012, 01:39:00 PM »
You're right on that huntryx. I won't buy it.
There is another thread on her this past week about "alternatives to barge" for that reason.
I gotta go find that myself... and archive it!
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The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!
TGMM Family of the Bow
Sasquatch LB
magnus
TGMM Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 3550
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #6 on:
December 10, 2012, 04:52:00 PM »
I used the new version of Barge cement on a seal skin strike plate and shot about 30 minutes later. Still holding strong and that was earlier this spring. No issues with it at all.
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Keeping the Faith!
Matt
TGMM Family of the bow
Turkey Flite Traditional
[email protected]
stripe55
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 69
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #7 on:
December 10, 2012, 05:50:00 PM »
It s the old Barge I used, it worked well, thanks for the responses. I did both the shelf and the leather and let them sit 5 mins then pressed them together. It sat overnight, about 10 hrs, I ve shot maybe 40 arrows, looks great.
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"no sleep 'til 55"
bowslinger
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 543
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #8 on:
December 13, 2012, 02:20:00 AM »
I have used the "red Barge" and seal skin and had no problems shooting within an hour of gluing.
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Hunting is the only sport where one side doesn't know it's playing - John Madden
Guest
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #9 on:
December 13, 2012, 10:31:00 AM »
You can still get the old barge from leather suppliers/shoemaker suppliers online.
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Bladepeek
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 3318
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #10 on:
December 13, 2012, 10:52:00 AM »
For my leather work I use a variety of contact cements, but let them dry until no longer tacky; 10 - 20 minutes. Press together and they bond immediately. You can't pull the pieces apart, so make sure you get them right first shot. The bond seems to depend on the pressure - heavier pressure; better bond. On my knife sheaths, I pad the area I'm gluing with a piece of scrap leather and smack it with a rawhide hammer.
I never seem to get as good a bond if the cement is still tacky when joined.
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Kc kreger
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 531
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #11 on:
December 14, 2012, 10:20:00 AM »
The new contact cements are around to stay, sad to say, thanks to all the glue sniffers and states like California. That state won a lawsuit against the company that makes Barge Cement and because of that millions of dollars were paid out to California.
Barge also had to spend tens of thousands of dollars to develop a new contact adhesive without the toluene. The new Barge does work it just does not work on wet leather as well as it did and it takes longer to dry and get tacky.
I've also noted that the bond gets stronger the longer it sets. In other words I can usually pull something apart if it is not lined up correctly with the new contact cements but one it sets for a couple of days it is there to stay.
There are some new latex contact cements on the market that look promising. Personally I need to work them before I can chime in on them.
K.C.
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Oklahoma Bowhunting Council member
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Ralphie
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 488
Re: Seal skin and Barge
«
Reply #12 on:
December 14, 2012, 10:39:00 AM »
The packaging says to let it cure overnight, before putting it into service.
I have used the new blue and white on grips, and it is just fine.
I put two coats on porous surfaces, like suede. Let it sit until glossy, 10-15 min for each coat.
Press together.
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