Predator classic + CE Heritage

[Fishburglar]

Hey everyone i am just wondering what your CE heritage arrow setups are on your Predator Classic recurves. I want to get the 250 Heritage but just wondering if i should get the 100 grain insert or would it weaken my spine to much. i have a 58# @ 28 inch bow predator classic and i draw 29. I want to leave the arrows at 30 inches. im just debating if i get the 100 grain insert or not.

[Blaino]

What is your broadhead weight?

[Fishburglar]

dont have one yet until i get a good flying point

[Blaino]

Ok then point weight?

[Bonebuster]

I would personaly start with an arrow and point weight combo I want, but leave the arrow longer than what I plan to use..

I don`t bareshaft any more...I just shoot my chosen arrow thru paper at varuious close ranges, fletching and all. Start out with a reasonably close set up. Carbons like point weight, and sometimes I have found them to work the best when the point weight is actually heavier than what you would expect. A clean tear through freezer paper tells me the arrow is straight in flight.

I would do that arrow up with the heavy insert, a 175 grain field point, and three five inch feathers, and start with the arrow at 31 inches.

I USED to really fret over starting out with new arrow combos...but not anymore.

Your Predator draw to 29" will be a SWEET powerhouse!

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by Blaino:
Ok then point weight?

honestly i dont have a target point weight but i have a target length of 30.5 inches

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by Bonebuster:
I would personaly start with an arrow and point weight combo I want, but leave the arrow longer than what I plan to use..

I don`t bareshaft any more...I just shoot my chosen arrow thru paper at varuious close ranges, fletching and all. Start out with a reasonably close set up. Carbons like point weight, and sometimes I have found them to work the best when the point weight is actually heavier than what you would expect. A clean tear through freezer paper tells me the arrow is straight in flight.

I would do that arrow up with the heavy insert, a 175 grain field point, and three five inch feathers, and start with the arrow at 31 inches.

I USED to really fret over starting out with new arrow combos...but not anymore.

Your Predator draw to 29" will be a SWEET powerhouse!

yea i just want my CE heritage with a length of 30.5.. i ordered the 250 today and i ordered the 100 grain brass insert. so i will see what point fliesout.. im hoping the 150 point flies great but lets see. BTW where did you buy your freezer paper from?
Yess my predator now blazes an arrow with amazing accuracy. and its SO QUIET for a recurve

[Blaino]

It's my opinion that you should pick your broadhead first and then find the shaft that delivers the broadhead best.  

The broadhead is what will be doing the killing and I consider it to be the most important factor in bowHUNTING.

Just food for thought....

[Bonebuster]

I get freezer wrap at any store like Wal Mart, or grocery stores. I have a square wooden rack I built that allows the paper to be pulled down thru and out the bottom. A couple shots, and I pull more paper thru and the roll feeds out. My rack is functional, but I rely on it so much, I should make a new one.

Blaino is correct about broadhead weight.
A decision needs to be made about what weight broadhead you will be using. I have used big two edge broadheads for decades. A big Magnus-1 or Zwickey Delta with an aluminum point adapter ends up weighing 175 grains...plus or minus a bit. So, I always buy 175 grain practice points.

However, sometimes the same arrow can shoot various weight points and not be affected.

Also, invest in practice heads of various weights...I did this, and trying different weight heads when tuning can answer questions quickly.

A good tear thru paper means the arrow is flying straight when it passes thru. A good tear produces a hole with damage done to the paper in the basic shape of the feather configuration. Enlongated tears will show up and you can make adjustments accordingly.

I get a good tear thru paper, and then screw on some big, wide, two edge heads. Take it outside, and back up to thirty, or thirty five yards. If your arrow is tuned, the arrow will guide the broadhead. If not, the big wing (broadhead) will do the guiding and you will see the arrow veer in flight. I have found that tuning problems show up when shooting longer ranges. Close range shooting can hide problems with broadhead flight. Big , two edge heads will show you tuning problems.

This method has saved me lots of time and headaches...PLUS, at any time, a bareshaft can be used to confirm what you find with shooting thru paper.

 Shooting thru paper has taught me just exactly how important brace height is. I have a Predator also, and I have two sons who both hunt with Predators. I have found Predators to be sensitive to proper brace height. A brace height too low, can ruin a well tuned shot...just a thought.

I know this much...my broadheads and field points fly exactly the same. A broadhead that tracks to the same impact point as a field tip is a beautiful thing.

Sorry for the long post.