Selecting Arrows

[Andrew JT Stubb]

Help.

Just got a new bow and am incredibly frustrated at how hard it is to pick out arrows. Going halvsies on a dozen with a friend I mine. They are Gold Tip Traditional 3550. I have a 29 in draw and my bow is rated 45@28. I know that spine is the stiffness of the arrow, but have no idea how that measurement is read. I don't have the luxury of a testing kit. My friend is ordering the arrows. What information do I need to give him?

I've tried using spine calculators but I don't know what any of the information means. I just need help finding arrows, so it seems pointless trying to input arrow information.  

Thank you for any help.

[bowslinger]

Andrew,

Take a deep breath and realize that even the best educated guess can leave you with arrows that may not fly the best.  Many factors will determine what arrow to shoot.  There are a few questions that will help me and others identify arrows that will likely work.  Please answer and we will see what recommendations come up.

1) What bow are you shooting?  Longbow? Recurve?  Recurves tend to be center shot while longbows typically are not.  Longbows tend to require a weaker arrow that a recurve.
2)Brand of bow? Model of bow?  Anybody reading this post that owns the same bow can tell you exactly what set-up they shoot for arrows.  Helps take some of the guess work out of it.
3)Do you know if your bow has a fast flight string or dacron string?  This can impact the spine required.
4) Have you read any books or other resources that discuss tuning a traditional bow?  There are a few good resources that describe most of the factors that impact what arrow will fly best from your bow.  A good starting point is the following link:

 http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

One thing to keep in the back of your mind.  Form can have a significant impact on arrow spine to achieve good flight.  After a few years of shooting traditional, I found a video on the internet on how to make your own version of a training tool called a form master.  I made one and found out I was short drawing by about 1.5 inches.  Once I learned a proper draw, my arrow length and spine requirement changed, meaning I needed to buy new arrows.  What ever arrows you purchase, be careful about buying new arrows until you are confident in your form.

Learning traditional archery does not happen overnight.  But that is part of what makes it so fun.  There is always something to work on, new arrows or different bows.  Don't be afraid to keep asking questions.  Also spend some time on the shooting forum.  There is a lot of good advice posted there.

[Flying Dutchman]

I think you will be fine with that arrows. Bowslinger gave you some good advice!
And yes, we need to know more!

[Andrew JT Stubb]

Thank you all! And forgive me for the venting.

I'm shooting a Shakespeare Necedah (left handed) recurve. I'll be using B50 Dacron

I've read many resources on paper tuning and know that good form has to be achieved before it can accurately show any arrow descrepansies. I've decided that a good approximation would be to purchase the said arrows and use an insert to increase the weight up front.

Thank you for all the help! And thank you for any more I for
Information.

[Stinger]

A GT 3555 at 30 inches with a 50 gr brass insert and 125 gr point and three 5" feathers will give you a dynamic spine of 54.1#, 9.5 GPP and 456 grains.

The Necedah at your draw length should need an arrow of 54.6#, so I would try the full length 3555 GT Trads with a 50 gr brass insert to start.

[Bud B.]

I'd go with 30.5" shafts and factory insert hot-glued in with 50gr inserts on standby. Seems to me with your 29" draw a 50gr insert will throw you on the weak side.

Presuming your bow is cut past center and with sideplate material you are at zero then this setup will work. If sideplate material gets you on the plus side of center then increase point weight. Always fine tune with brace height adjustments.

 

A 30" arrow with 145gr point and factory insert will put you at 53.4ish lbs dynamic spine on the arrow.

[Stinger]

I would agree with Bud but thought the 3555 didn't come any longer than 30".

[David Mitchell]

My uncut 3555s are 30 1/2" from the bottom of the nock to the back of the head.  I shoot them cut to 29 1/2" and 50 grain inserts with anywhere from 145-175 grain tips and they inevitably shoot great out of every bow I own (drawing 28" on longbows and a bit longer on my hybrids) from 45-55# at my draw.  GT 3555s are very adaptable arrows. I personally find arrow matching is one of the easiest things I do in life.   :D   It ain't rocket science like some guys want to make it out to be.  Never have used Stu's calculator (whatever that is) or any charts. Just been at it a long time I guess and know pretty well what works and what doesn't.  Trad archery is supposed to be simple!!  

[ddauler]

Don't over complicate it those shafts will work leave them full length for a while play with point weight. Tip the steel adapters and glue on heads are easiest during experimenting and cheaper than brass inserts. Get em shooting well full length and then if want to shorten and add weight until they work at your length.

[bowslinger]

I think the 3555s should work fine. Get them full length so you can cut them down as needed.  One tip.  If you have a bag style hanging target, you can place an insert into an arrow by wrapping it with a thin piece of plastic, like saran wrap or a ziploc bag.  This will keep an insert with field point in place.  That way, as you shoot and trim the arrow to length; you do not have to reglue the inserts into the arrow each time you want to trim it down.

[Andrew JT Stubb]

Thank you all so much! I'm glad to have such an active bunch of fellas helping out a beginner. I'm getting a chance to test them out afterall.

[Bud B.]

I think the new 35/55 Trads are going to be 32" shafts if I correctly read Big Jim's recent thread about his blem inventory.

Good luck on your search.