30gr. nail for wood arrows?

[Biathlonman]

Just started working with wood arrows.  Looks like I need 160 gr.points to tune but I don't have any 160gr. Broadheads.  Was thinking about trying to save some money and just using one of the 125-135gr. Broadheads I already have with a nail in the end of the shaft to make weight.  Anyone already done the testing to figure out what size commonly available nail I'd need to do that.

[magnus]

I wouldn't drive a nail into the end of the shaft. Unless you have the internal footing jig. It will split. I use tiny lead split shot and add them in the head. You might have to shorten your taper a bit. The glue will keep them in place. Bird shot for shotgun shells work too but I don't have them.

[Roadkill]

Years ago i built a jig to drill a hole down the center. I gave some to friends who recently told me they are for sale at a trad catalog!  Put a 1/8 inch hole done the center and use 6 shot.   Or you can melt solder in that hole

[chanumpa]

Those jigs Magnus and Roadkill are speaking of are the way to go.Then you can add what you want and make them consistant.

[Hud]

I weighed a few sizes:

1-3/4" finish nail     15 gr.
2-1/2  finish nail     20 gr.  1/8" dia.
2-1/2  Galvze finish   40 gr.  9/16"
3-0    Galvze casing   80 gr.

The common internal point weight and footing jig uses a 9/64" drill, for either the 11/32, or 23/64" jig. A 6" long drill bit is available thru the dealer or your home improvement cntr.

[karrow]

how bout a couple pc of lead shot in the bh. ive done it with field points

[Terry Lightle]

I use #8 bird shot from shot gun shell.#9 works better but I already have #8.

[Biathlonman]

So what I'm gathering I need to quit being cheap and buy some 160 gr. Broadheads!...lol

[Bill Carlsen]

You can do the solder in the broadhead, as well. Once you know how long a piece you will need it is very consistent and easy to do.

[magnus]

So what I'm gathering I need to quit being cheap and buy some 160 gr. Broadheads!...lol

I wouldn't say that unless you want too. Many ways to tinker in tradional archery. If you have a grain scale adding to the point is easy. All depends on how much you like to mess with this stuff.

[ChuckC]

Many of us gravitate towards tinkering.  I think that is part of being "traditional".  If I liked the broadheads I had,  I myself would tinker.  Lots of ways to do that in this instance.
ChuckC

[Fletcher]

I've done a fair bit of front loading the shafts using 1/8" lead wire.  It is 35 grains per inch, heavier than any nail and quite cheap.  Tungsten is heavier, but too expensive for me.  I drill my shafts with a jig in a drill press rather than a drill guide.  Drilling a 2" hole is pretty easy, 3" seemed to be the practical limit.  You would need only an inch or less with the lead wire.  A brad point bit helps with drill wander.  Filling the ferrule with shot, solder, etc. works, but to get 30 gr you will lose quite a bit of the ferrule's depth which can lead to alignment and strength issues.  I didn't like it.

Considering the time, effort and cost involved, new 160 gr heads is a pretty reasonable option, or just leave your arrows a little long.

[Zradix]

What fletcher said x2

[Biathlonman]

New heads it is.  I figure by the time I get set up with a jig and materials to fill, I'll probably be way more expensive then a half dozen ace or tusker heads.  Just need to get my bow back from refinishing and I'll get everything confirmed and set up.  Thanks all.

[Fletcher]

Lots of good 160 class broadhead options, I can recommend the 165 gr Ace Express.  Overall, still one of my favorite broadheads.

[2treks]

Originally posted by Fletcher:
Lots of good 160 class broadhead options, I can recommend the 165 gr Ace Express.  Overall, still one of my favorite broadheads.

X2

[lpcjon2]

Howard Hill 160grn Head