Tips on wooden arrows

[Biggamefish]

What kind of glue do most of you guys use on your woodies.  I used the ferr-L-tite and havn't shot them yet but does that stuff hold up like it does with alum?

[gringol]

You picked the right glue.  I've shot woodies with that stuff my whole life and never had problems.

[cedar]

I use the milky white colored hot gun glue sticks.  I buy them in a 6-pack at Ace Hardware.  Have never had a point come off.

[Zradix]

industrial hot glue stick

[ddauler]

I use Minwax Poly finish duco cement for fletching and fer-L-tite just make shure to use acetone to clean inside of points.

[tuscarawasbowman]

I have always used fer-l-tite. I only ever had problems when I was not following the package directions (typical man hah!). Heat the glue, wipe a generous amount on taper, heat point and push on. When i had problems before I would heat the glue and point both then assemble. Seemed like the glue would  boil itself out that way and I would lose points. Cleaning with acetone is a good idea but I never have and have always had good results.

[darin putman]

Any 5 minute 2 part epoxy, takes a little more heat to remove tip but holds em good.

[Rob W.]

AMG super 735 hot stick

[Joshua Polland]

Ferr-L-tite here. I actually found two sticks today on sale, 50% off! That will last me a while. Some people say that it's too brittle but I've never had a problem, my arrow will break before the point comes off.

[Eric Sprick]

I use Ferr-L-tite on my wood shafts with great success.
I do always clean out new points with q-tips and a little alchohol, you will be surprised how dirty some new points are inside.

Eric

[Dendy Cromer]

big jim sells a type called quick stick or something like that. It has never failed me and one stick lasts seemingly FOREVER.

[Shinken]

Been using Ferr-L-Tite since 1980 with most-excellent results!

YMMV

Shoot straight, Shinken

 

[The Whittler]

I'll 2nd Big Jim's glue stick.

[Knawbone]

I find the hot melt glue sticks work the best. I think their more economical as well.They work better in the cold weather we get here in NY.  

[monkeyball]

Matthew,
        Make sure you take the advice of cleaning your points on the inside before gluing. Sometimes they actually have an oil on the inside. When I use to build woods I would boil my points in some soapy water then let them dry. That always worked well.

                          Good Shooting,
                                    Craig

[Chuck from Texas]

2 part 5 min epoxy  Tried hot melt and had failures, be sure to clean inside the points.
Chuck

[wapiti]

I use high temperature hot melt from the hobby store. It is less brittle and higher strength as well.

[TSP]

Used Ferr-L-tite for years but lost points in cold weather.  Pinned them after that but they still loosened. Then tried two-part epoxy...haven't had a point pull off after that, as I recall.  Use your finger to spread the excess material down over the top 2" of shaft (just behind the point) and it'll cut your broken tips way down as well.  Tough stuff.

[TomBow]

Been using F-tite like many.  Just recently dove and dove DEEP into making woods.  Have had a few points pull off but the majority have been rock solid so point-loss was probably due to points not being fully de-contaminated prior to gluing.  I am interested in the 2-part epoxy and TSP's tip on reinforcing the shaft point-end to increase durability.  So what kind of 2-part?

As far as fletching, Loctite gel control super glue over vinyl wraps has proven to be the ticket.  Much feather abuse without a single pull-off.  And it has been easier to control gel glue vs. non-gel glue placement on the quill.