Arrow / setup recommendations?

[MrBadExample]

I eagerly awaiting a Turkey Creek bow which Doug tells me I should have soon.      Any advice or succesfull setups with these arrows would be much appreciated.  The bow will be 50#@28" and I have about a 26" draw.  

Thanks!
Brian

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I don't do carbons but others will help with them..I do know you'll be better off getting 100grn inserts for them and get different weight points to try to help with tuning. if you where using woodies I would say  55-60# will be good for your 44#@26" bow, since your pulling only 26".

[Larry247]

I shoot the 55/75 GT's @ 30.5" with my 51#@28" and the same arrows in my 46#@28" bow both with 125grn tips. They also shoot the 35/55 GT's very well at 30". I've not shot the other two types of shafts though, you'll have to experiment with them. My two hunting bows are widow's and they like ceders as well.  

[James Wrenn]

Wait untill you get the bow before cutting your arrows.Set one up full length with the point weight you want and trim as you tune it to the bow.You will be able to make all those arrows work if you do it that way.jmo

BTW.. They are very good shooting bows.Because they are not cut very deep on the shelf you will need arrows on the weak side to clear the riser.Cutting shafts early might make you wind up too stiff.

[MrBadExample]

Thanks for the input!  It is very much needed as I don't want to start out left field trying to put some arrows together.     But, I got the final word, and the bow should be here next week     and looks like it will be 46#@26".
I don't really have any preferences regarding point weights, I just want to end up with about 10gr. per pound as recommended.  If I put in a brass insert to bump up the weight, say like the 50 or 100gr ones sold by 3 rivers, is there a way to remove it without damaging the arrow?  Basically, I want to end up with a 28 to 29" BOP arrow lenght if possible.  I have been told the Gold Tip adjustable weights are the way to go for this type of tuning.  Any thoughts?

[Jim/LI]

You can temporarily fix the insert with a little hot melt glue.  Shoot into sand or a homemade bad target so you can retrieve your inserts and points if they detach.

If you were shooting aluminum you would probably need a 1916 or 1816 shaft.  The carbon shafts you have selected are MUCH stiffer.  It is likely that you will need a lot of point weight and also will need to leave the shafts very long.  I would suggest opening only one package.  You might need to return the rest for shafts with weaker spines.

[Jim/LI]

Sorry, that should be bag not bad target.

[Shawn Leonard]

The 150s will not shoot out of it even full length, you would need to add over 375 grains up front to get them to fly. The other two may, but leave them long and add 100 grain brass inserts and 125 grain points and cut back a bit at a time until ya get good flight. I just had a TC and it is not cut to center, so getting an arrow to tune is a bit tougher. I think the 500 left close to 30"s and 225 up front will be close. Shawn

[eagle24]

Shawn is right.  My Turkey Creek is 45# @ 28".  My draw length is 29".  31-1/2" Heritage 150's fly well from my 45# ACS-CX, but are way too stiff for the TC.  Full length Beman 500's fly for me with 125gr Stinger broadheads.  With field points I really need 145gr on the full length Beman 500's.  Problem with the thin shaft Bemans and Axis is that you can't find 9/32 field points heavier than 145gr.  I think Shawn is pretty close with his advice to use the 100gr inserts.  They are going to be stiffer for you with your shorter draw length.  My draw length being so long allows me to shoot the Bemans with less weight up front.

[Shawn Leonard]

I am sure with only a 29" arrow you will need the 100 grain brass inserts and most likely more than 125 grain points, at 30"s ya may get away with 225 up front though. Shawn

[3dmuzzy]

I shoot beman 500s 28inch with 100grain inserts and 125 tips out of a 50 at 26 widow ptf,But like shawn said your bow is not cut to center and that makes a big difference...ED

[redclay]

I am shooting a 42@27" recurve and am getting good flight with beman 500s full length with 240 grains up front

[Pinecone]

Of your arrow selections, the GT 35-55s will likely be your best bet.  I'd suggest around 225-250 grains for up-front weight, which can be achieved through a variety of brass insert and point weight options.
Start by bare shaft tuning with a full length shaft and cut no more than 1/2" each time you test the arrow.  At the bare shaft tuning stage, your goal is to obtain a bare shaft that is slightly weak...consistently 5"-6" to the right of center for a right handed shooter.  Once this has been achieved and you fletch your arrow, you should discover that you fly spot on.
As an FYI...in the 35-55 GT shaft, I shoot a 29" arrow with 250 grain up front with my 46#-47# recurves and longbows that are FF flight compatible.

Claudia

[bentpole]

Great information given here. Out of my CREEK which is 54 1/2 #s at my 27" draw I am shooting Gold Tip 35/55's They are cut to 27 5/8 . Beleive it or not when I was bare shafting I found out I could get away with a 125gn head . There's so much stored energy in Dougs limbs. However Doug recommends at least 8 grains per inch, my arrows were around 7.3 grains per inch . I called him and he said no problem just add another 40 grains up front.Well the best combo for me are 175 grain heads I actually did a robin hood on one of my carbons with this set up. I even shoot up to 250 grains up front on this bow with no problem at all.I always shoot 5 1/2 inch feathers out of all of my bows also. I beleive this helps a bit. also.