Question about nocks and wood shafts

[frankwright]

I have built a good many dozen wood arrows but have been shooting carbons for the last 5-7 years. I decided to try some wood again.
I ordered a test set of Surewood shafts and fletched them and worked on seeing what weight my bows liked.

After I got that settled I ordered a dozen shafts 11/32 just like my test kit. I found out that fir does not like the little pencil sharpener taper tools. It grabs and gouges. So I had these come to me with the tapers already on.

I can't get a 11/32 nock to fit. Usually I can push a nock on and it will stay, these pop right off. I am worried that even if I get them to stay long enough to glue they may not be on well enough.
I am using the Bohning classics, all I have right now, and they just don't come up the shaft far enough to grab.

Any ideas?

[lpcjon2]

With some taper tools it will leave a bit longer taper, I just snip the end of about an 1/8" and glue the nock on. I also seal my tapers so the glue holds.I use fletchtite or Duco, spinning the nock on the taper and then stopping it in place

[Orion]

If the tapers are too long, just snip them off as lpc suggests.  If they're too short, and/or the taper angle is off a bit, you have a problem.  Only way to solve it is to regrind them.  If it's real close, you might be able to hold the nock in place while the glue dries.  However, the glue has a tendency to melt the nocks, particularly Bohning fletch tite.  Just a little too much pressure one way or the other in the first 30 seconds to a minute and you've got a crooked mounted nock. Good luck.

[Hood]

Like the others have said, they are most likely too long of a taper. Just take cut the tip a little shorter.

[Rustic]

I have had the same concerns and prefer self nocks...jmho
 

[frankwright]

Yes I snipped them off with no change. I do always stain and seal the nock portion too.

I guess I will just glue them and see what happens.

Rustic, you have never seen my wood working skills or you would not suggest I try a self nock.
Yours look really good.

[TomBow]

I too end up staining/sealing up the nock ends but make sure to sand them down to roughen the nock taper before gluing.  Have used Duco and had only one nock pop off, probably due to insufficient glue.  I was taught to not use too much glue and to "burp" the nocks--put on glue, put the nock on and twist it to coat the taper with glue, push nock on hard, then back it off for a second to "burp" out any air.  Then I keep twisting until I feel the glue start to set.  I use Snap-on nocks and have use classics but personally like the S.O.'s better.

[cedar]

Make sure the shaft isn't 23/64.  It can happen.

[frankwright]

I finally got the final coat of sealer on and allowed it to dry.
I glued the nocks on and shot them a few times and they seem fine. Just made me feel like they were not far enough on the shaft to grip it securely but like I said It has been a little while since I did any wood arrows.
The tapers were real nice and smooth and I didn't think they were at fault, I was more concerned about the style or brand of nocks to see if they make a big difference.
I guess I was a little paranoid about a dryfire if the nock came loose.
Thanks for the ideas and help, I think I am going to be OK and ordered some different brands of nocks just to see if there is a difference.

[Surewood Steve]

Frank this is Surewood Steve I have just registered here.  I did the taper on your shafts and I have done several others and noticed that the nock taper comes to a fine point.  I need to make a slight adjustment on my jig, the degree of taper is OK but it come to too sharp of a point and the nocks "bottom out".  Just sand off and they should be fine.

[frankwright]

Thanks Steve, I am making them work.

Great shafts anyway. I am amazed at how straight they are and how straight they stay.

I like the way they stain up also.