Paint bleed through on arrow

[snag]

I used the oil-based poly to dip my spruce arrows in. Then I let them dry/cure for 2 days. Then I crested. The paint that is next to the wood is bleeding over into areas I don't want it to.  Should I have dipped more than once? Should I be using a water based poly? There seems to be a lot of opinions on this....

[snag]

I forgot to say I am using Humbrol paint that was recommended. I got it at a hobby store. I guess a lot of guys use it for painting models and trains.

[Charlie Lamb]

Snag... I'm sure not the paint expert, but my response will at least bring this subject to the top where it may get more hits.

I've always shied away from anything with "oil" in it's name. Just paranoid of adhesion issues with fletching/nock cements.

The water based polys have impressed me lately, though I continue to be a fan of laquer based paints and finishs.... much prefer Bohning products to anything else, but they can be too smelly for some guys (wives) tastes.    

I'm surprised I don't see threads boasting about using NAPA automotive laquers... dang tough stuff and there isn't a color you can't have made.

There! Maybe that will stir some interest.  

[snag]

Thanks Charlie. The next batch of arrows I do I will use a water based poly. I would think the auto lacquer is a great idea. Is there anyone out there that has used some? The dozen I have already used the oil-based on I am just trying to get through...a learning experience!

[Charlie Lamb]

I used the automotive Acrylic laquers for years. They dry fast (usually less than 10 minutes and in the right conditions in less than 5), are usually readilly available, aren't too expensive considering how long they last, and make a damn nice finish.

Heck, I was using auto lacquer back in the sixties and was shown several ways to apply it to arrows. It can be wiped on, dipped, dipped with a gasket (lots of guys think that's anew idea    ), sprayed, or brushed.

[Hot Hap]

If I remember right Pat Graham used automotive lacquer to make his arrows. I use the Bohning products also. I tried the water based polys but didn`t care for the results and went back to the lacquers.

[cajuntec]

Please don't take this the wrong way - as I don't mean to start an arguement, and I am in no way trying to demean someone for using a product that they like.... but I've never quite understood why people use anything other than paint designed for a specific purpose - in my case - Bohning is my choice for every step of my dipping / cresting operation.  

I realize that people like to "tinker" with things, and that model paints are much easier to get your hands on - but the minor costs savings in comparison to some of the headaches I've heard that result from their use, just doesn't quite add up to me.  

I recently just looked at the Testors model paint at my local hobby shop.  It's about a third of the price of the Bohning Lacquer.  However, the jar is less than half the size of the Bohning jar too.... so you really aren't saving much in costs.  I guess availability and shipping costs would be the only issue I could really see that would cause people to use "other than designed for" paints... but 3Rivers, Kustom King and others are just so easy to order from....  Just my opinion.  

Like I said before - I hope I'm not offending anyone by posting that opinion.  Just trying to figure out why so many people use finishes not designed for the job.

All the best,
Glenn

[snag]

I appreciate your post Glenn. I am starting to feel like you, that using the right products can make life a lot easier. I am all about results when you invest time and effort. The value to me with testors or polyurethane is that I can get it when I want it. It has never been about the money...not yet anyway.  I was inspired by seeing all these beautiful arrows you guys show on here. I wanted to start on some NOW! I must be part of that immediate gratification generation...I like to think I am just inspired and ambitious though! Oh, I will probably still experiment with some options. But you can bet I will be putting in an order to 3Rivers so when I am "inspired" I have what will work best for me. Thanks for your truthful post Glenn. No harm done.

[Fletcher]

Don't worry about the oil base poly, Snag.  Fletch with Duco and you'll have to grind the feathers off.  I always dip at least twice before crown or crest is applied, with a light steel wool between each coat.  Paint with latex or automotive acrylic enamels.  The automotive can be inconvenient to work with but is great paint.  The touch up bottles work well for cresting colors.  The automotive industry doesn't use much laquer anymore.

Funny, Charlie worrys about oils and I worry about dipping my bare shafts in water.  Both are proven to work well, however.

[Shakes.602]

As an Ex-Modeler, Humbrol Paints are  THE BEST  there is Out there for  "TRUE TO LIFE COLORS"
  I used to Paint, and still do if I get the Chance, Military Miniatures as Well as White Metal Miniatures for Friends that Asked.

[M60gunner]

I have used Bohning products for 30 years now. That being said I use Wipe on Poly from MinWax and Gasket Laq. as well. What works for you is what works. On woods I have used the wife`s acrylic paints thinned down to also most water. Then Gasket Laq. over that. I have dipped them in Fletch Lac then crested them and them Gasket Laq. over that with no problems. Auto paints where used for years but they cost as much as Bohning products in my area. If they are wood arrows how long will they last is another question to ask yourself. Some guys use leather dyes for color then the poly over that. It suits them fine and they donot cry so much when an arrow is sent to the arrow Gods.
I have not had good luck with water based poly or water based Min Wax stains. That is more a reflection on me than on the products.
If I could maks a suggestion? Buy some cheap dowels, prep them like you would your cedars and try what you want. If that finish doesnot work at least it did not cost you $2.50 for the shaft.
I use Ducco for all my non Bohning finishes. Even when I use Gasket Laq. over Bohning Fletch-Lac.
Sorry guys for being long winded. Tom

[snag]

I will go to the hardware store today and get a "test dowel". Good idea. I bought some Duco at Walmart just for these arrows. I think I will try some of the auto acrylic enamel too. Thanks for the input guys! For those of you that has used the Minwax oil-base poly how many final coats do you use? I have dipped them twice now and the part of the arrow that is just stained seems to just keep absorbing it. It feels like bare wood! I lightly steel wooled between coats.

[Whip]

I like to use the Testors paints for cresting mostly because of the incredible color selection available.  Through reading here and trial and error, I have figured out what is easily compatible with those paints and have stuck with that.  A freind of mine does use the automobile laquers (he works in a body shop) and makes some beautiful arrows with those too.  Even with the small size of the Testors jars I tend to have them dry out before I use them up because I have a pretty wide selection of colors on hand.