First Woodies - Build-along

[Buranurra]

Hi all

I have finally begun the making of my first set of arras.

The shafts I am using come from Surewood and are 11/32 Premium Douglas Fir 70-75.
I am using the new version of the Tru-Centre Taper tool (V2), I was a little worried that these pencil sharpener type tools would struggle on the Douglas Fir but was pleasantly surprised that it shaved beautifully, no gouging as some had reported on harder woods.

This thing is idiot proof (thankfully) and I just used a light pressure to shave what looks like to my beginners eye as a perfect taper. I believe that this version fixed a number of issues experienced on the original tool.


 

I have just done the nock end on 12 shafts that I will cut to size once I have the nocks mounted.

There are three shafts that I did both ends on at full length. I intend giving these to a friend with a long draw if they turn out acceptable.

So not much to add here, but I intend updating regularly now that I have actually started.

Cheers

Jase

[Buranurra]

... this arra making malarky is a piece of cake      :D    

 

 

It pays to delegate... 0000 steel wool and point tapering.


erm, and now onto the more difficult bits!    

[Buranurra]

I have now tested the points and nocks on the tapers and they fit like a glove.

Here is the latest, I have masked off the area I will be doing the white cap and cresting and then stained with Feast & Watson brand - Jarrah - which is a Western Australian tree with a dark red timber. There will probably be some bleeding under the masking tape but I thought It can't hurt trying anyway.

   

   
   

That is all I will be able to do for now, I want to give the stain 24 - 48 hours before I cap. Not sure if I should do a coat of Minwax prior to the capping to seal the stain a bit?? Either way, I am not going to rush the next steps without a good amount of drying time.

All advice welcome.

Cheers

Jase

[gringol]

looking good!

[Mike Vines]

those are coming along nicely.

[Bernie B.]

Always fun to watch arrows being made!

Bernie Bjorklund

NC Iowa/SW Wisconsin

[Surewood Steve]

As a general rule most of the pencil sharpener hand held models don't work as well on fir, but the proof is in the pictures.  Maybe the blades are sharper, keep them changed often.  I do know that Bear Paw tapering tools with the cordless drill adapter turns the shafts faster and more even, and works well.  Good luck with your shafts, Surewood Steve

[Buranurra]

THanks fellas,

I am sure the blade will dull quicker on Fir, I purchased a spare at the same time, it will be interesting to see how many shafts I get out of a blade.

Cheers

Jase

[T-Bowhunter]

Looking Good!

[Scott357]

I have the same taper tool. 2 dozen douglas fir shafts without a hiccup so far. I love your drying rack. After trying to figure out some fancy way to hold my arrows while they dry I arrived at the same solution-the ever useful milk crate!

[Buranurra]

THanks fellas!

Jarrah stain with two thin coats on Minwax Wipe On Poly. Lightly sanded between coats with 0000 steel wool.  36C with 30% humidity makes this drying very fast. The harsh sunlight is a bit distracting on the pic. 15 shaft in total.


 

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Looking good!

[Rustic]

Those arrows are looking good and that Taper Tool does a nice job...  

[Keb]

I'm getting a Crester, want to build  some from raw shafts, I am so confused on. On gasket lacquer, dipping, wiping poly spray ect.

What's the simplest bullet proof way to stain, dip ect I have some testers model paint.

Any help the cheaper the better will be making them for my use.

[Buranurra]

Thanks for the comments and encouragement fellas!

@Keb I am no expert here. We don't have gasket lacquer in Australia to the best of my knowledge, so can't help there.

I prepped the shafts by using 0000 steel wool (these Surewood shafts dont need much to get them glass smooth) You can use 350 or higher dry lube paper

If you are using a soft porous wood then you can use a sanding sealer and a good rub down with 0000 steel wool or very fine sandpaper prior to the staining if you are really keen.

I applied the stain (spirit based) non diluted with a soft lint free rag, let it dwell on the timber for a couple of minutes and used clean rag to remove excess. Repeat until you get the desired colour you want.


I will be using masking tape and newspaper to mask off the stained areas (basically reverse of what you see in the picture with the blue tape on it), and the do the capping with enamel spray paint. I will then use Testors model paints for the cresting.

 And finally I will apply more coats of Minwax.

I think I have covered the rest in my post above.

Use the search function here the many threads here and tips from the real experts here - I am a raw noob at this, although I do have  some experience in restoring and finishing furniture.

Cheers

Jase

[High Desert Hunter]

I just finished with 2 arrows, one POC, the other Douglas Fir, it has been about 6 years since I made an arrow.  They turned out alright, but not great.

[Buranurra]

Originally posted by High Desert Hunter:
I just finished with 2 arrows, one POC, the other Douglas Fir, it has been about 6 years since I made an arrow.  They turned out alright, but not great.

Id love to see some pics

[darin putman]

Looking good so far a whole lot fancier than mine, Gonna have to order me some more Surewoods soon, not that I need them but just like to build them!!! I use the pencil sharpener type taper tools have a couple of them guess I built about 3 or 4 dozen woodies last year worked out ok.

[High Desert Hunter]

Here they are, the 2 on the left are POC, the 1 on the right is Douglas Fir.

[Buranurra]

THey look good to me HDH

here is the update...

The next pic shows the reverse masking

 

This one is 2 light coats of gloss white

 

Cheers

Jase