Trying to figure out a recurve

[Doublegun]

So after several months of PT for the labrium in my left shoulder.  I am thinking my days of shooting a compound are over.  Nothing to be sad about, it's never been as much fun as shooting one of my recurves.

I have three recurves, all vintage 70's bows; a 48# Pearson, a 43# Bear Kodiak Mag and a 50# Bear Kodiak and I shoot them fairly well but I am wondering if it's time to invest in a custom bow that would minimize the pressure on my left shoulder.  I draw about 29", thinking 45-lbs would be fine for whitetails, not sure about length.  I have heard that Bear bows "stack" so I wondered if a custom bow might be easier on my shoulder.  Maybe I wouldn't have to fight so hard to keep it at full draw.

Any advice and thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

JDG

[njloco]

Hello Jay,

What I found for me was that anything above a low wrist grip whether it be on a recurve or a LB gives my shoulder a workout. I discovered this quit by accident at a shoot where I shot some of my friends bows. I shot two beautiful recurves and they both bothered my shoulder, and they both had fairly high wrist grips. I then went to a friends house because he had bought a new LB with a low wrist grip and shot for many hours and my shoulder didn't bother me at all.

Just keep in mind this applies to my shoulder and injury or sprain, or whatever it is.

[McDave]

It's always a good time to invest in a new custom bow!  However, that aside, modern recurves should draw more smoothly and shoot with higher efficiency than any of the bows you mention, due to improvements in materials and design since your bows were made. That is not to say that all modern bows will do that, but a lot of them will.

I would suggest that if you want a smooth drawing bow to 29", you should select a 64" recurve that is either specifically designed to draw 45# at 29", or one that draws 42-43# at 28". I assume you are right-handed?  Shooting a heavy arrow, maybe 10 gpp, should also help to reduce what little hand shock there might be in a modern recurve. Probably it would be a good idea to keep your left elbow unlocked too, and of course use good shooting form in general, like keeping your left shoulder down in a natural position.

[Doublegun]

Thanks fellows. Please keep the advice coming.

[Doublegun]

Digging around I saw a couple of articles dealing with more radical curves the idea is the bow does not "stack" as much as traditional recurve designs.  Seemed logical to me but is there any validity behind the design?

Also what bowyers should I look at?  Not saying that money is not an issue but my primary goal is finding a bow that I can shoot for the next 20-years.

Thanks again

[T Lail]

if a bow is made properly, it should not "stack" at all.......I agree with McDave......a longer bow may help due to your longer draw length....talk to as many bowyers as you can and then make your decision......

[DamselflyFarm]

I get no stacking from my Bear Grizzly. It certainly is a smooth shooter.

[reddogge]

Or you can put together an ILF rig with premium carbon foam limbs. Very smooth on the draw. I'd recommend a 19" riser and long limbs for a 64" bow.

[BuckeyeGuy]

JDG,

If any of the 3 bows that you currently own are either to heavy in poundage or stack at your draw, and you are not partial to them, then I would recommend trading bows on the classifieds.  You will most certainly find something on there that will fit your needs.  But just like McDave said, its always time for a custom!

[Sixby]

I would reccomend a good static recurve. It will be quieter, easier to pull because of the leverage and most likely faster. Of course I am predjudiced to Eaglewing but there are quite a few really good ones being made.
God bless you and good luck, steve

[Doublegun]

What is a "static" recurve and how does it work?

[olddogrib]

I've had 3 shoulder arthroscopies( 1 left, 2 right). The first 2 were pitted rotator cuffs, the last(and worst regarding rehab time)was to repair a torn labrum.  I thought I was going to be forced back into using compounds! Everything turned out okay, but took longer than my patience limit and I still don't shoot more than 50 lbs. The point being, I honestly don't know which easier on a shoulder.  I'd keep up the PT and strength training at any rate.

[Pheonixarcher]

Use the search function here. There are whole threads dedicated to static tip recurves. But simply put, in a 'normal' or working recurve, the curved tips 'unfold' when the bow is drawn. In a static tip, the curved tips do not bend with the rest of the limb.
Ps. A well designed custom bow can draw so smoothly, that the draw weight can feel like it stays steady or decreases a bit for the last few inches of draw length. I have heard some refer to their recurves as feeling like it has a little bit of "let off". One custom bowyer you might want to check out is Big Foot bows, along with any other of our fine sponsors.

I know a man that went to a 42 pound at 28" recurve that wrecked his shoulder while shooting a heavier, longer drawing compound.  According to him the shorter draw and the lack of pull early in the draw helped his shoulder.  He has no penetration problems with his Super K.

[Doublegun]

Pavan, that's kind of where I am.

Here's the complete background:  For the past 10-years I have been shooting a Mathews set at 67#. with no problem.  In August I got the bow out to start shooting for the fall and the first draw resulted in very severe deep pain in my left shoulder.  Once I got the bow back I had trouble stabilizing to shoot.  I dropped down to 50# limbs, focused on keeping my palm down (to the point njloco made above) and I was able to shoot with minimal discomfort.

After an MRI and a MRA (MRI with contrast) which indicated a small tear in the labrium, rounding of the edge of the labrium and some fraying.  My PC and Ortho agree surgery will probably not provid any long term relief.  I started PT in December and the strengthing and stretching has pretty much eliminated the day-to-day pain (putting on/taking off a shirt, reaching out the car window as a drive through - very specific movements) but I have not drawn a bow (compound or recurve) since early November.

Compound v recurve:  when you pull back a 50# compound it's 50# as soon as you begin to draw whereas a recurve starts at 0# and ramps up (stacks) as you draw to whatever length you are shooting.

What I really want to do is to be able to draw and hold comfortably a recurve with enough power to be effective on deer here in the midwest and I know that I have a lot to learn.  I enjoy shooting the three recurves that I have now but I wonder if draw/hold would be better with a different bow.  I have always derived a great deal of pleasure and relaxation by shooting for fun in my back yard through out the year and I'll be extremely disappointed if I have to dial back the amount of time I spend shooting.  That's where I am coming from.

I sincerely appreciate the information and advice that you have provided so far.  It's refreshing to ask very broad questions and not having to read through posts by condescending douch-bags.

Thank you again,

JDG

It may be just me and my wife, she is right handed and was having shoulder problems, btoh shoulders, with her 41@28" Red wing Hunter.  I got her  Darton and dropped the grip  a bit, which helped.  Both bows were around 37 pounds at her draw and she got pass throughs with both bows using 420 grain wood shafts with Zwicky eskimo and 125 grain Grizzly broadheads.  I then got her a Lost Creek NAT custom made for her 26.25" draw that is about 37 pounds at that draw.  the lower grip helps her shooting a lot and that bow is actually quicker and also has no problems pushing her arrows through deer.  I think a lower or straighter grip allows the arm to naturally bend a little.  this allows the shoulder to set in a more natural lower position. Keeping your shoulder in a position that does agrivate your specific injury, I think, would help you a lot and allow healing without further injury.  A little  experimenting could tell where your shoulder should be, then get a bow that matches that position comfortably or get out a rasp and some sand paper and adjust one of the bows you have to see if it is right.  Then when you know what works for you, if you want, you can get a new bow that fits you.

[Doublegun]

Shooting a variety of different recurves seems to be the biggest challenge.  There have not been boyers at the jamborees I have attended.  Other than asking around what's the most effecient way to as many bows as possible?

[longrifle]

Don't snub your nose at that old Bear, I have had several custom bows like Bighorn,Silvertip,and others and I think all my Bears are the smoothest,and I have 4 of them all older a Grizzly,Super Grizzly,Super K and Kodiak Custom ranging in weights #55-#60 lbs.

[Doublegun]

Longrifle,

Don't get me wrong: I love my old Bears and the Pearson.  I'm just wondering if there are alternatives that will be easier on my shoulder.

[SuperK]

Another possible answer would be to change the WAY you shoot your recurves.  Instead of coming to full draw and holding, you might try the method that Dennis Kamstra describes in "Tips from the old timer" in the lastest issue (Feb/Mar 2013) of Traditiional Bowhunter magazine.  GOD bless...