Frustrated with bare shaft tuning

[jsburden5]

I am having issues with bare shaft tuning. Every shot is impacting nock right. I am shooting right hand with a tab and three under. Consistent and accurate are not the issue. I have went through every tip weight from 100-250. Results are much better with 250gr with both arrow types. I am shooting carbons and aluminums. Fletched arrows are giving same results. I have pics to show if someone can tell me how to post them using iPhone. Please help

[David Yukon]

Could it be that your nocking point be to low??? Just a guess. You could try with it a 3/4" or higher and start going down??

[njloco]

Arrows ?, draw weght ? These would help in getting an accrate answer.

[jsburden5]

Nock too low can cause nock right impact? Just asking

[Stumpkiller]

Distance from target?

[xtrema312]

Nock right would be stiff for right hand.  I get this kind of behavior, but nock left with a low nock point and contact on the edge of the shelf.  

We need much more info. What is your bow weight, center cut, arrow shaft, draw length and so on. Could be you are way off on spine and everything is stiff until you get up around 250 gr. Where you just start to get in the range.  Hard to say yet.

[jsburden5]

Aluminums are Easton gamegetter II 2216 at 31". Carbons are Easton raider 400 at 29". Draw is 50# at 28". The bow is a Martin Jaguar and I am shooting off a flipper rest with a 7 1/4" brace height

[jsburden5]

Distance from target is 7 yards  I can only shoot in the garage right now due to Las Vegas winds... I have made brace height adjustments as well as adjusting the rest to the left, making arrow point farther away from center.

[jsburden5]

I know the aluminums are on the stiff side however the carbons are right on according to the spine charts  also what I find odd is that both shafts impact at nearly exact same angle even with the aluminums that have feather fletchings. The fletchings are straight and 5" long

[xtrema312]

How they stick in the target has a lot to do with the target, but right off i would say that your 400 spine is way too stiff and moving your rest out makes it worse yet.

[xtrema312]

There will be recommendations all over the place on your carbon.  Your measurement from center of the bow to face or your rest is critical.  For what it is worth, my set-up for my recure is a 400 spine carbons with over 250 point weight including heavy insert with arrow a little over 30", and i shoot is at almost 55#@29" off the shelf of a recurve cut to 3/16” past center.  

I just had a BW PCH that was 49@29 and it liked a 500 spine with 175 point and arrow 30”.

[cbCrow]

js, by looking at your number of posts I assume you are fairly new to traditional shooting. If that is the case I would reccomend you stop and look at the form forum on this site and learn good form before you even attempt to bare shaft tune. Another resourse I reccomend to new shooters is Tony Camera's book "Shooting the Stickbow", it is full of good info and if followed will help you along your journey.

[killinstuff]

I would recommend you just stop trying to bare shaft tune. All my arrows have feathers on them and it really helps them fly good. Stick bows are simple tools so why complicate things. Put feathers on the arrows and go shooting.

[Bladepeek]

I think the bareshaft testing is showing something very useful.

Both those arrows would be a little stiff for my 50# bow. The fact that it starts coming around at 250gr seems to support that. I'd try a weaker shaft. I shoot 2117's with 175gr heads, 31" long and they fly great from that weight bow, but even at that length are a bit stiff with 145gr points.

[Jeff Strubberg]

First, it does look like you are way too stiff.  I could shoot either of those arrows out of a 70 lb. bow.

Second, the arrow sticking in the target is a really poor way to judge arrow flight.  The target material can and will deflect the shaft, either causing it to read the right direction but exaggerating the amount, or causing it to read the wrong direction if flight is close to correct.

Either way, paper tuning or shaft planning will give you a much better read.  Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get an arrow sticking straight out of your target.

[Biathlonman]

Try paper.  I never could get consistent results bare shaft tuning, but can shoot bullet holes all day on paper.

[Easykeeper]

You say your bare shafts are nock right...do they group with your fletched shafts?  

I don't pay a lot of attention to the angle of the bare shafts, as long as they group with fletched out to 20-25 yards.  If they are flying significantly nock right/left or high/low, they won't be in the fletch arrow group anyway.  The angle they stick in the target can be affected by the target itself.  The goal is bare shafts and fletched grouping together at as great a distance as you care to shoot.

In general you are correct nock right indicates stiff.  A .400 cut to 29" is a relatively stiff arrow, but shouldn't be too far off for a 50# bow.  What is your draw length?  If you are drawing less than 28" your not getting the full 50# of draw weight out of your bow.

[Rick Richard]

Try paper.  start up close and move back asmuch as 10 - 12 yards and see what is happening.  I agree with most that your arrow selection is too stiff for your bow.  Also, we don't like to admit that our form can be at fault, however it can be a significant input.

[rluttrell]

I am a left handed shooter and always hit to the right of my target no matter what distance. It might have been a little less at close range but always right.  I was lucky enough to have an instructor watch me. He said my eye was not over the string. I simple tilted my head a little and the arrow went straight to the target. You might want to check your alignment

[Cato]

I have to respectfully disagree with the "give up bare shafting idea".  I will admit for a new shooter it can be a real frustrating learning process, but at least for me, way long time ago when I read the Black Widow manual, and began to work through bare shafting, I discovered and cleaned up form issues, and learned about arrow flight stuff that has benefited me ever since.  

Sounds stiff to me as well, which makes sense for the nock right.  Agree with the post that how it sticks in the target can also be misleading.

There are plenty of guys out here that know a ton, and are more than willing to help.  Hang in there buddy.

Cato