Whipped up a simple paper tuner today!

[Longbow917]

Well, I haven't been able to get my new bow to the local archery range to paper tune, so I threw some stuff together in the basement in literally fifteen minutes and got er' done!  Works pretty slick off the table top.  Frame of peg board, three pieces of leftover wood, one chunk of oak firewood for base, a dozen screws and I was in business.  Here she is!!
    Back view-     With paper-    
After putting an arrow through-      What do ya think, is the hole good enough or does it need some more tweaking?  The paper is really thin and the hole doesn't look near as nice as the thicker paper I had to start with.  Plus it is an extreme close-up, makes the rips look HUGE   :eek:  Any suggestions on the tuning based off tear are welcome.  I am shooting 30" GT Trads, 3555, 240 grains total up front, four-fletch with 4" feathers.  Bow is 47# @ 28", 62" Thunderhorn 3piece.  Shooting split and nock is set at top of scale (not real sure how to measure off those scales) Thanks for lookin!

[Alexander Traditional]

That's nice. I made one a while back also.

[KSdan]

Looks like someone ruined it by putting something through the middle of the paper!    

[Bowwild]

Pretty nice.

I've made them of PVC pipe for portability. In a pinch I've simply used a picture frame or cardboard box with the bottom and top folded out of the way. These days I have a old clothes rack stand on wheels that lets me shoot at shoulder height without putting the device on a table.

By the way, a friend and Gold Medal Olympic archer (Atlanta-1996), took my PVC contraption apart and threw it in the trash when he saw it. He doesn't believe in paper-tuning. I retrieved it because the process works for me.

[Longbow917]

That is interesting Bowwild.  Does he just judge by eye his arrow flight then?  How does he get everything dialed in??

[stujay]

Great idea. Looks like your dialed in as well.

[Burnsie]

I had a neat little wooden stand that I built and mounted a contiuous paper roll on.  Worked nice, but after years of sitting in the back yard the base got rotten on it and it was done.  Been thinking about whipping up another one some weekend.

[northener]

After seeing an arrow flight in slow motion it's a wonder anyone gets a straight tear, even with no fletching.  

I imagine it really is dependent on the distance from the bow the paper is set up, but I believe when I researched it, most said to set it up about 3 to 5 yds from bow.

I quit paper tuning gand went to bare shaft tuning.

[187BOWHUNTER]

I use an old large picture frame hanging off a cpl strings in the garage

[stabow]

When paper tuning what distance do you shoot?

[Longbow917]

Stabow- I am about 8 or 9 ft off the paper.  My basement is around seven yards total.

[elk nailer]

I use a aluminum storm window frame. works great.

[bronco2]

i use the metal frame real a state sign's. they work great..good job on yours..congrats

[Bowwild]

LongBow917,
This fellow I refer to lives and hunts in your state now.  He tests a variety of arrows (at one time he had samples of all possible that he would test).  He shoots the arrow that groups best at distance. He doesn't care that much about arrow flight just grouping.

[JamesV]

I built my paper tuner to use a roll of wax paper. Gives a nice hole that is easy to read and after using, just roll out more paper.

[JamesV]

I built my paper tuner to use a roll of wax paper. Gives a nice hole that is easy to read and after using, just roll out more paper.

[xtrema312]

Holes can be hard to read if you can't see them close and press them back down, but looks like your point is at the low left of the rip hole so you are showing high nock and stiff.  Or low nock bouncing off the rest and a hair stiff.  But, a lot depends on distance.  I like to shoot about 6’ to get close and then play with different distance to see the flex in the arrow. I will shoot like 4’ and every couple of yards out to about 8 yd. just too make sure a rip is not just arrow paradox settling out.  If I see rips go back and forth a little over distance I don’t worry about it. I just look for consistent rip direction issues showing the arrow out of line and not just flexing back and forth.  I also don’t mind a little high rip shooting split fingers off the shelf.  I have a hard time getting bullet holes that way, but I can get real nice holes shooting off a rest or shooting off the shelf three under.  

For paper I like drawing paper like they use for running construction drawing prints.  I have about an unlimited supply of that around.  Something stiffer like construction paper works well.  I have even seen some use targets.  Stiffer paper is harder on feathers, but shows a lot cleaner hole.  Too thin of paper can show exaggerated tear.  

My frame is 30x42 to match my paper.  The nice thing is I can shoot a series of holes at different distance and then look at them all to see the pattern of the flex plus identify known bad releases.  I get a lot more shooting in than if changing out smaller paper.  I can also shoot at a lot longer distances and hot hit my frame, very often   :D

[stabow]

LB917
Thanks.......stabow

[Longbow917]

xtrema, thanks for the information, those are good ideas that I will play with.  I definitely need a little thicker paper.  I am shooting split off the shelf, so the high tear is right in line with what you are saying.  I will throw in my 100 grn inserts and put some 175 heads in and see what that does!

[Gator1]

Great Thread, I really like the visual from Paper Tuning...