predator recurve spine

[Fishburglar]

58# @28 with 28 inch draw. Predator Recurve Classic. with velcro rest. im shooting 29inch CE heritage 250 with 250 grains up front and factory insert. shows stiff since im getting burn on the left side of my shelf of my velcro rest. i think it is beacause it is to stiff. i thought .500 carbon would be to weak and light. what are your... any thoughts as to what arrow you recommend. my form has been crossed out from the equation. i tried moving nock but seems that i have it perfect. Predator recurve owners please chime in and tell me what your shooting?

[Alexander Traditional]

I'm shooting 55 at my draw of 30". I'm shooting some of my CE Heritage 250's full length with a 175 grain tip and some are cut down to 32" and they are flying good with a 200 grain tip. I know you have yours cut down three inches shorter than my shortest,buy you're 50 grains heavier and a few pounds heavier. It sounds like you should be in the ball park. I've got a few CE 150's coming in today or tomorrow. If you think for sure you're too stiff you could try some 150's and cut them back as need be,you would have a lot more room to play with.  I was going to try these others with some different bows I have.

[Fishburglar]

i was thinking of trying out some 150's . i will try and setup a paper tune and check how the 250 grain tip flies. to me it feels good, but the velcro burn is killing me. my feathers are smooth no sharp parts to it that can be messing my rest. whats your nock set to? im at 1/2

[WESTBROOK]

150's will be too weak with any kind of weight on the front.

My step-son is shooting a 55@28 predator and a 150 with 175 was too weak at 29". I gave hime some CX Rebels that are .410 spine and 30" long and fly perfect with 175 on the front.

Might want to try some more weight up front or a longer shafts.

Eric

[rraming]

I have several predator recurves, 51,51 and had 55lb, I draw 28" GT5575 with 225 up front worked on all, cut to 29.25. The CE 250 is a stiffer shaft, the ce250 spines at 85lbs and the GT5575 spines at 75. You can use the 250's but you will need more tip weight if you already cut them all.

[Fishburglar]

Yes i cut them and have inserts in them. I will try and find the best to make them fly i guess after 250 grains it goes to 300. Next dozen will have 100 grain brass insert. I should get about 11 gpp which should hit hard out of this predator classic

[Friend]

If the marks on the side plate occur behind the rest (string side), the shaft is too stiff. If the marks occur on the shelf in front of the rest, it is too weak.

[xtrema312]

Those 250's are stiff.  To weaken them more  take out those standard inserts and put in some 100 gr. inserts.  You can heat a field point and pull them.  Just go easy on the heat and dunk in water quick when you pull them to cool the shaft. You can also hold a wet rag on the end of the shaft to help cool the shaft while heating the insert. I just pulled a couple inserts in some 150's.  I hear you can also nock out the inserts with a drill bit and whipping the shaft hard. I have not tried that.  

Are you also paper tuning or bare shaft tuning to see if the shaft is stiff?

[FarmerMarley]

If the wear is on the outer edge of the rest it can be other issues. I just had a similar issue shooting my predator and finally fixed it. I was getting wear on the outer corner of the shelf and on the velcro. If your elbow is high at the draw or your string hand is pushing down on the nock of the arrow you can cause a similar effect to what you describe. Trying to tune your arrow or adjust your brace height and nocking point will not help if this is the issue.

Have you bareshaft tuned? How do the bareshafts fly? If you get a nock high then that is another indication of the above-mentioned, form induced issue.

Hope that helps

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by Friend:
If the marks on the side plate occur behind the rest (string side), the shaft is too stiff. If the marks occur on the shelf in front of the rest, it is too weak.

yea its on the side a bit towards the rear shows a bitstiff..

 

Originally posted by xtrema312:
Those 250's are stiff.  To weaken them more  take out those standard inserts and put in some 100 gr. inserts.  You can heat a field point and pull them.  Just go easy on the heat and dunk in water quick when you pull them to cool the shaft. You can also hold a wet rag on the end of the shaft to help cool the shaft while heating the insert. I just pulled a couple inserts in some 150's.  I hear you can also nock out the inserts with a drill bit and whipping the shaft hard. I have not tried that.  

Are you also paper tuning or bare shaft tuning to see if the shaft is stiff?

only one problem... i super glued them in =[ since i didnt have anything and i got to excited to shoot. can you blame me? haha... and i bareshafted tonight. bareshaft shot to the left of myfletchced arrow.

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by FarmerMarley:
If the wear is on the outer edge of the rest it can be other issues. I just had a similar issue shooting my predator and finally fixed it. I was getting wear on the outer corner of the shelf and on the velcro. If your elbow is high at the draw or your string hand is pushing down on the nock of the arrow you can cause a similar effect to what you describe. Trying to tune your arrow or adjust your brace height and nocking point will not help if this is the issue.

Have you bareshaft tuned? How do the bareshafts fly? If you get a nock high then that is another indication of the above-mentioned, form induced issue.

Hope that helps

makes sense.. i will most def make sure my elbow is low, and i dont push down on the knock. i finally canted my bow to try it and started gettingan amazing grouping and thats how i began to bareshaft. since my velcro was torn i couldnt tell if canting the bow helped or not. i felt much more aligned accuracy was on point from 20 and 25 yards. i willput on new velcro tonightand see if after fixing my form will finally solve this, then i can get some arrows tuned! im going nuts.

[kunsangsean]

I feel ya, having the same issue and it can be real annoying. On one hand its not a big deal, but I've been replacing the rest every 3-4 shoots to protect the riser, and I'd really rather not do that.

I just sent my riser in to ron and mike to get a riser crack fixed, and am going to ask if they have any recommendations about the shelf wear. Will let you know if I get any good info.

[kunsangsean]

I feel ya, having the same issue and it can be real annoying. On one hand its not a big deal, but I've been replacing the rest every 3-4 shoots to protect the riser, and I'd really rather not do that.

I just sent my riser in to ron and mike to get a riser crack fixed, and am going to ask if they have any recommendations about the shelf wear. Will let you know if I get any good info.

[xtrema312]

Supper glue can be removed with the two methods I noted.  

I have had problems with the shelf edge issues.  Nock point and form are the prime culprits.  Once you have tried higher nock points and gone from over stiff to over weak and not solved it, go back and look at your form.   Check bow torque, sting torque, pulling with lower fingers, elbow angle and so on.  

I get this issue only with shooting split finger. I can tune a bow right up with no edge of shelf issue shooting three under.  Maybe give that a try and see what you get.

Try some white electrical tape on the shelf and over the edge to show you marks.  That will show sometimes in one shot what is going on.  It can help you see results as you tune and adjust form.  Don’t be concerned with rubs on the shelf.  Look for them on the  edge of the shelf and edge of shelf material.

[jtrap5]

I have a couple of predators, and have found that nocking the arrow above the nocking point has solved most of the shelf contact issues. The minor contact that is left would most likely be due to form and release for me.

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by kunsangsean:
I feel ya, having the same issue and it can be real annoying. On one hand its not a big deal, but I've been replacing the rest every 3-4 shoots to protect the riser, and I'd really rather not do that.

I just sent my riser in to ron and mike to get a riser crack fixed, and am going to ask if they have any recommendations about the shelf wear. Will let you know if I get any good info.

YES PLEASE LET ME KNOW

[Fishburglar]

Originally posted by jtrap5:
I have a couple of predators, and have found that nocking the arrow above the nocking point has solved most of the shelf contact issues. The minor contact that is left would most likely be due to form and release for me.

YOU MEAN PUT THE NOCK UNDER THE ARROW? AS IF I WOULD SHOOT 3 UNDER? OR JUST RAISING NOCKING POINT

[jtrap5]

Yes, put the nocking point under the arrow. Simple way to do this is to nock an arrow under the nocking point, then put another nocking point under the arrow nock, then remove the one on top. Try it. I got better arrow flight nocking on top.

[xtrema312]

I always use a nock point top and bottom of arrow nock on all bows shooting  split and 3 under. Most nocks on carbons will slip up and down your string.  Keep a small gap to allow your arrow nock to move a little so the nock points don't spinch the arrow nock.

[Fishburglar]

Alright i bareshhafted and took everyones advice! i have almost no rug burn just very little as i was trying to find what weight tip to use. the 175 was showing weak as i shot thru paper and from 25 yards with bareshaft. the 145 flew beautiful and i grouped real good! from 30 yards the bareshaft was just a little under my fletched shaft but it was inline. most probably caused by me. i moved my knock point a bit higher now im happy as can i be. i just need to order some new field points now.