FIRST BOW REFINISHING HELP

[bronco2]

Hello all. well here are some picture of my first bow i will be attempting to refinish. it is a shakespear model x30  45# at 54". it is not to bad. but has some scratches and the clear finish is come off of it. so, what do i need to do first? i did body work for a living for about 5 years. so, i know how to sand and refinishing goes. start out with some 100 grit maybe and should i take all the clear finish off of it? i will need some help. so i do very much appreciate anyone who can help me out. thanks, denny

i will get better pictures tomorrow..

 

 

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

i think i'd recommend starting with 120 grit on the riser and get the finish off first..... go real easy on sanding the limbs. drop back to 180 or even 220, and do not try standing any deep scratches out or you'll effect the poundage of the limbs and could throw it way out of balance....

any dents in the riser can be lifted with steam.

after the riser is looking good, hand sand it with 180/ 220 then start out with a sanding sealer and keep coating it lightly and sanding smooth again with 220 until you've got all your deep scratches filled... then you start your finishing process...  kirk

[portugeejn]

This has tons of information on it, but I bet a lot of it would be helpful if you haven't seen it yet.

RonP

   Bow Restoration 101

[bronco2]

i read that before. it is very helpful..thanks for the link again..

kirk, is that 120 wood sandpaper or wet dry paper?

i would guess wood.

what is a sanding sealer. never heard of that. you know a good name sanding sealer ?
thanks for your help. and i hope this turns out ok.

lol
thanks

[Whip]

Sanding sealer is used on bare wood before staining wood to seal the wood pores so that the stain goes on evenly.  Softwoods especially will absorb stain at different rates and can it leave a blotchy look.  The sanding sealer will help prevent that.
On bows you are generally not staining anyway and you are working with hardwoods, so it isn't needed.
Use regular wood sandpaper for your project.  The only wet paper I use is sometimes in between finish coats.

[tuscarawasbowman]

Bronco2 you have a PM

[bronco2]

ok, thanks fellas

[bronco2]

ok, just got back from the hardwood store. and they didn't have the sand able sealer. i take it the sealer is clear and drys pretty quick.whats the name of the sealer you guys use? thanks

[bronco2]

here what i have so far guys.. i took the finish off and sanded it with 220 and got it all sanded good. now, do i put the writing back on now? or clear it then do it. i guess i could just write what the bow is and the model also. don't think i can get the silk screen to go back on it. do i need to take all the clear off the limbs? thanks, for any help..

 

 

 

[bronco2]

few more..

 

 

 

 

[bronco2]

triple posted...dont know what happen..

[bronco2]

dlb posted for some reason

[BuckeyeGuy]

Never done this before, but interested to see how it turns out for you!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

do i need to take all the clear off the limbs? thanks, for any help..

i would take it down until it's smooth with 220, and go from there. avoid sanding the glass itself or it's going to cause you problems. if you have any deep scratches in the glass, don't try to sand them out. They will fill with finish as you go..... lay down a couple wet coats, then sand it smooth with 220 until your scrachtes disappear... then just do 3 light coats on the limbs.... you don't want a heavy build up on the limbs or it may crack.

btw.... i use sanding sealer to fill grain rather than the finish material.  it's more cost effective...

[bronco2]

i cant find the sanding sealer. where you get it and whats it called. thanks

[**DONOTDELETE**]

You can use Deft, or Krylon clear, or even bulls eye shellac will work fine. all of that stuff dries fast, and can be sanded lightly right away.... Keep in mind, you are sanding most of this stuff off anyway, and are just filling grain and deep scratches with it..... Don't use polyurethane... takes too long to dry and doesn't sand as easily.

Do not use spray lacquer either... many finishes are just not compatible with that stuff...  Kirk

[bronco2]

oh boy. i was getting ready to use polyurethane..krylon clear. you mean the stuff in the spray cans? all i can find around here is polyurethane or spray lacquer. i dont know what really to use on it now....lol. thanks for all your help sir. i really do thank you...

[bronco2]

ok, i found some krylon clear. and as soon as i spray a little on it i noticed some thing. on the limbs where some of the clear was sanded off. the fiberglass showed thru the clear. so, i need to re sand it. and put some flat black back on the limbs and then re sand the wood edges and start over with the clear sealer again. correct? thanks

[Bud B.]

Be very careful sanding that glass. If you go too deep you'l possibly compromise the bow limbs. I'd sand those spots no more until you have more clear coats on them.

Take your time.

[bronco2]

ok, thank you..