Getting Grizzly BHs to spin right....hmmmm

[Al Kidner]

Hi guys,

 Well I just bought myself a dozen of the newer Grizzly 'Kodiak' heads in 160 grains and am having the devil of a time trying to get them to spin true when gluing them onto screw in BH adapters.

I have the 11/32 alloy adapters - the long ones - and for the life of me just can't seem to get these heads to spin true. Do you think I need the shorter model adapters in 5/16 say...?

If not...well I don't know what to do. I hate having BHs not spinning true...


ak.

[joe ashton]

I've also had that experience.  I think it is because the point is not a needle point but an edge.  They fly great just don't spin on a table top perfect.
Boy do they leave a blood trail when placed in the pump house of a deer or elk...

[Gator1]

You may want to check with bill Dunn

He can help you out

[ChuckC]

Are you spinning them on their point or are you using a set of rollers (on the arrow's shaft).  If the broadhead does not come to a centered point, it might be tough to get it to show a good true spin unless you are using a roller system and look at the rest of the picture.
ChuckC

[Al Kidner]

I have been spinning them on the point like a top on my work bench. I have a roller so I may give that a try...

It may work.

[onewhohasfun]

I went thru this yesterday. Be sure to pre-fit all your components when they are new and clean, no glue. If they won't spin true clean, they will never spin tru with glue.

[tzolk]

I've been fighting the same battle with the Kodiaks and Grizzlys. I've gotten most to spin like a top on the top of a shoe box. A few have a wiggle no matter what. The ones that spun well fly incredibly well. I like the flight. The Grizzlies are thicker towards the tip than the Kodiaks and bend less. Does anyone know if the smaller Grizzly will do well on Elk?

[Charlie Lamb]

Don't over think this Todd. The Grizzly and or Kodiak is no better or worse than any other broadhead. If it's razor sharp and put in the right place it will do exactly what you expect.

Dull or in the wrong place and it becomes a coin toss.

[Pat B.]

I think you're absolutely correct, Charlie.

I do find the Grizzly's easy to sharpen to the razor sharp degree and they seem to have a proper temper to them, hold an edge well..

I've killed a batch of critters with Zwickeys, Eclipse, Stos, Abowyer, etc..

Shot placement is KEY !

[tzolk]

Thanks Charlie!

[Al Kidner]

I am sure these heads will work exceptionally well on all critters if put in the right place... That being said if flight is poor due to mounting offset then..... ?

[ChuckC]

Well, I guess first shoot them and see if they are  !

They are not very wide heads.  I am guessing you can get away with a lot less perfection with Grizzlies than with Magnus I s.  

I guess I am the wierd one in the crowd.  I know about bare shaft shooting and tuning, and all that stuff, but in the end, if you assemble the arrow, and it has feathers, and it shoots fine,  it will work !  We gotta shoot em to see.

ChuckC

[FarmerMarley]

You know I have noticed some variation with the straightness of the grizzlies and kodiaks I bought, some of them actually look slightly bent and did not spin good. However I also think the tips of the single bevels in general make that type of spin-testing tricky.

[mmgrode]

Al, are you using heat melt glue or epoxy to mount the grizzlies?  I've found the extra time allowed by the epoxy helps me get the grizzlies lined up to my satisfaction.  Sometimes they take a good bit of effort and time to get right; time not permitted by the hot melt glue. Always makes me nervous introducing heat to the broadhead, with the potential to affect the temper of the head.  The disadvantage to this method is when an adapter is bent, they are VERY hard to remove from the broadhead ferrule, unlike the hot melt.

Also, spinning them by the tip hasn't worked as well for me with the grizzlies.  Rolling them on a very flat table and watching the blades works for me.  

Cheers, Matt

[stalkin4elk]

pm sent.

[JimB]

Al,I use this alignment jig.It has rollers but you can make a quick one out of wood,wih "V" blocks or whatever.It doesn't have to be fancy.
 
I establish a reference mark with a known,straight point.
 
 
I put the point on and with the blade vertical,align it to the reference point.
 
 

I turn the blade to horizontal and again,align to the reference point.
 
 
It helps to go back and forth a couple times to make sure nothing changed.I do one head at a time and it takes literally seconds.The reference point  makes it exact and eliminates all guess work.Most of the heads I use on it are 190 and 200 gr Grizzlies.If I shoot or miss game,I like to double check alignment and it is quick with the jig.
 

[Al Kidner]

Gee thanks a bunch for that great tip JimB from up over there in MT !! I have a roller I use to check the straightness of wood shafts so I shall now employ this method of getting BHs alligned.

Cheers,

ak

[JimB]

Al,I have never been good at spinning arrows and aligning the tips.I never knew how much to move the tip and it was all trial and error and took a lot of time.The jig gives me an exact reference point and tells me when the point is exactly on.

I went back to some of my old arrows and checked them on the jig,knowing some wouldn't be perfect but they were off more than I expected.And after aligning on the jig,they spin like a top.

I have also used the jig when repairing a bent or broken tip to restore it to center.

Many configurations will work.You just have to have your reference point and rollers,all mounted on the same rigid base.Good luck with it.

[Pat B.]

Jim, are you using a slow set epoxy ?

[JimB]

Pat,I use an epoxy called Epo Grip Fast set.It is a paste epoxy sold by taxidermy suppliers and sets in maybe 6-8 minutes.It is also a very strong epoxy,considering it is a fast set.I have done 3 or so arrows at a time but now prefer to take my time and do one at a time.I use the same glue for inserts and aluminum footings.

Even after it sets,it can be adjusted a little as full cure isn't there yet.I think it is a good idea to let any epoxy cure for 24 hours before shooting,even fast sets.

I think a thick glue,whether epoxy or hot glue,helps hold the point when you move it.