Heavy Hitters Part Two(updated and finished)

[stringstretcher]

Here is the other dozen I am working on right now of my heavy hitting hog arrows.  I changed these a little for the original 4 to get a little more weight and a lighter spine.  I have six mounted with heads right now, but have to wait on some more inserts to do the rest.  I will get the nocks cut in and then sealed good (will gain a few more grains) and then fletched.  These will come in over or close to 800 grains.
 
 
 
 

[stringstretcher]

And the high to low proof.
 
 

[Trumpkin the Dwarf]

yikes! I really like the look of those. How hard is it to keep the shafts straight over time?

[twitchstick]

   

[stringstretcher]

Once tempered Dwarf, it takes a lot to get them out of shape.  And that is as long as you are using second year growth bamboo/cane.  Once I get them straight and sealed, they will stay that way, a lot better and longer than wood, for me at least.

  With that said, my cane and bamboo arrows will take me more than a week to do a dozen, just on the straightening.  Very time consuming, but well worth it in the long run.

[M60gunner]

Question, how have those inserts worked out for you? I made some bamboo arrows for a friend. I bought the inserts from 3 Rivers. I found the tail part to be weak. They broke off while I was tapering them.

[stringstretcher]

M60 I am not sure what inserts you are speaking of.  What these have up front is a Gold Tip 100 grain brass insert that has been inleted so to speak in the shaft, with a broad head adapter and the broad head.  Or are you talking about the nock insert that I have in them?

Here is a picture of basically what I am using up front.
 

[M60gunner]

Ok, I am confused. In your pictures it looks like you have wood inserts in the tip section of the boo shaft. I see now what you did. What I am talking about are wood inserts that have a tail that fit into the shaft. They are made for the tip and nock ends of the shaft. I do like your idea better but my friend wanted to use glue on broad heads so I ended up gluing bamboo skewers in the shaft. Then used my wood chuck tapering tool to make the tapers. He was going to hunt Crocs.

[stringstretcher]

I got you.  If I am just using the glue on broad heads, I also insert a dowel of the right size into the point end of the cane and then taper them just as I would a wood shaft.  You can see my plugs in the end of the nocks, where I am going to cut in self nocks on these, but could taper them just like wood shaft and use a glue on nock.

Another alternative is to use the glue in point inserts with the point taper on them up into the cane.  You can buy those for most any size aluminum shafts and do them that way, and get a little more weight forward as well.  If you need, I can get you a picture of them.

Also 3R has the brass ones to glue in that are 100 grains I believe.


Just for your info, on these cane, I first drill a 3/16 inch hole in the center, and then drill down into the cane about 1/4" with a 1/4" bit for the collar of the insert to rest against.  And when you put sinew and some shrink tubing at the end, it will not move, no matter what bone you hit..

[M60gunner]

Thanks for info. I know the inserts you are talking about for glue on heads. Have some hear from arrows from long ago. I might try some boo arrows when I get the time and I can find some decent shafts. I know they are tough.

[Doc Nock]

Is this what you guys are talking about for inserts for glue on heads?  I call them glue in/glue on inserts! LOL

I believe they come in 3 weights... but am most familiar with 100 gr. and 125 gr.

 

[TommyBoy]

Stringstreacher, I'm still confused ... what are the white collars at the end of your shaft made of?

[Doc Nock]

Gunner,

Till Charlie gets back, might this be an answer t o your question in what he wrote above?

I also insert a dowel of the right size into the point end of the cane and then taper them just as I would a wood shaft. You can see my plugs in the end of the nocks, where I am going to cut in self nocks on these,

[stringstretcher]

The white collar looking things you see on the ends of each piece of bamboo is no more than white masking tape.  I put this around the shaft when I have to drill or taper into it.  If you don't do this, the cane/bamboo will split on you every time.  This keeps it from splitting.

[Doc Nock]

Dang, Charlie...even your taping is so perfect it looks like it's something different...mine never come out that prefect!

[stringstretcher]

You must not be closing your eyes just right Doc??          

[stringstretcher]

Well I got 10 out of the dozen that I was working on because two of them just do not want to become arrows.  I now have all the nocks cut in, the sinew wrapped at the nock and the points, and will now do the shrink tubing and put a finish on these and fletch them up.  I will get some pictures up when they are finished.

[Terry Green]

WOW!!

I've never seen cane arrows that serious before.  Looks like you sure know what you are doing.

What spine are they?

[stringstretcher]

Terry, these shafts all started at 110 lbs to get them to work with the amount of weight I have up front.  All of these will weight in between 750 and 800 grains when finished....lol.  Just the wind from them should knock the pigs down... I got to shoot the first four that I made up, and at 20 yards they will shot as good as any other arrow material that I have ever used, and a whole lot tougher.

[stringstretcher]

Here is the result of taking the time and making these cane work.  The proof is always in the spin.  This is the worst spinning arrow of the ten that I am now making.  Hard to believe a piece of grass can become this.  Enjoy

 

It took me awhile to get the spin going because I was holding the camera with one hand and trying to film it while spinning with the other....phew....lol.