NEW Dr. Ashby report - check it out !!!

[SlowBowinMO]

Here's a pic of ours from a winter hog hunt.  The Grizzly 125 pierced the heart from the rear on a hard "raking shot" that entered behind the last rib.  It continued forward and lodged in the sternum.  If you look closely you can see the rotation as it passed through the heart, on the upper right and lower left.  The arrow was an Easton 2016 fletched right helical, from an old 50# Hoyt recurve.

 

The arrow was losing steam at the point it did this but you can still see the rotation.

[outbackbowhunter]

Ed,
   I am back from my buff trip, managed a small buff and had a great time.

Brad Kane was my guide and Wolfgang Kimmel the other hunter in the team. Both top blokes and a pleasure to share the hunt with.

Several stalks had me very close to bulls but the oppurtunity for a clean shot eluded us for several days.

At one point a large bull we were stalking got it in his head to chase a subordinate bull, which decided to run our way,the bulls saw my bow and Brad's rifle  lifting, and we had a staring match at 7 metres.

Asat camo and face masks are good gear, lol.

I have spoken to the man who does the ferrules for me, and he thinks it is doable to make steel ferrules with slots cut to fit the blades.

They will be slightly more expensive to produce due to slower machining of steel versus aluminum.

He is flat out for the next 5 weeks, but then his machine is free to play with broadhead ferrules again.  

In time I will be able to do left and right wing bevels easily, but until I make a better surace grinding bevelling machine, its right wing only.

I cheated with the buff and used a 72lb compound, because I am not presently strong enough to draw a trad bow with the grunt required.

However your advice on arrow weight and broadhead worked well.

Arrow specs were 840 grain total weight, speed 182 feet/ sec, single bevel, 170grain, 3:1 broadhead. Shot distance was 20 metres.

If I hunt buff in the future I would go up to a 1000 grains for arrow weight next time.

Arrow placement very close to centre of front shoulder one third of height of chest. broadside.

The tip of the broadhead was almost through the far side hide, the last 8" of arrow broken by the action of the shoulder as the buff ran off.

He went down in 40 metres, a matter of seconds.I was very pleased to kill such a large animal so cleanly. Thanks for all the good advice.
                                        Woody.

[Tique]

Dr. Ashby,

Concerning the Magnus 1: I have removed the factory edge and I'm now working on the single bevel (left hand). Question is what would you recommend on the triple thickness front section. Without having an edge on the off side in the same plain, I can not get a cutting edge without putting at least some angle on the off side front section. Will this have a big impact on performance? Hope what I'm trying to describe makes some sense to you. Thanks, Dave

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Hello Woody,

Sounds like you had a great hunt! Buffalo are increadibly tough critters. Now that you've 'been there', take a look at Photo three in the new updates, Part 8. After seeing first hand what buff are like, you'll now have a special feel for what a HUGH difference a fully penetration maximized arrow can make! Those are just 790 grains, and carry just under 39 foot-pounds of kinetic energy. "Impossible", all the folks who lean on kinetic energy as an indicator of an arrow's penetration potential would say ... but those arows did that; and exit wound on EVERY SINGLE SHOT!

That's great news on the steel ferrules. After testing the steel-ferruled prototypes I know that this one change will place the single-beveled Supreme VERY HIGH on the list 'Best Broadheads", and certainly place it as the top choice in overall performance among screw-mount broadheads.

Tique, are you adding a Tanto profile tip? That's what I did during the modification, and I DID double bevel it on the triple-thick section. I'm just beginning to look at what affect the dimentional size of the Tanto and the type and position of the bevel I place on the Tanto, might have on performance. It will be a big part of next years testing. Until I know otherwise, I can't really say that double-beveling the tip causes any problem. Wish I could give you a better answer, but just don't know what is the best way to go yet. Perhaps by the end of the next round of testing.

Tom, check out the post I added about how I modify the 190 Grizzly. I gave some specific dimensions there. If you have any specific questions, send me a PM. I'm headed bush again very soon, but will get any PM sooner or later, and back to you as soon as possible.

Ed

[JRH]

Where can I get some of those "Abowyer" heads???

[beyondmyken]

JRH, I asked the same thing and there is a post, do a search but call the manufacturer.  He may be hunting this week so you can't reach him for now.  I like the heads and got the 135 gr.  He said he doesn't have many now due to demand but will be making more.

[Tom Krein]

Here is a thread I just started with pics of a Grizzly 190 gr broadhead that I modified per Dr. Ashby's instructions...

   LINK  

Let me know what you think.

Tom

[JRH]

Thanks for the info...

[JRH]

Has anyone tried modifying a Magnus, Tusker or any other reasonably priced readily available blade?  I would think the Magnus I, or the Tusker delta types would be good candidates?  I am asking only because left hand helical’s shoot best and fletching last the longest through my longbow.  I am sure Abowyer’s are good heads however, at $40 for 3 heads, could there be a more economical alternative…?

[Java Man]

JRH,

I modified one Ace Standard 160gr head.  I'm going to do several more, and some Tusker Aztec's.  Just need to find time. With a bench grinder, it took less than ten minutes to modify the head.  I'm still trying to figure out the Tanto point, but its probably not so necessary on deer size critters.