arrow tuning problems

[Danny Rowan]

What is your actual draw length? If you draw 28", the 5575 should be fine. Like others have suggested, get a bow square and set your nock point to 3/4" above level to start and adjust from there, a little at a time, up and down waggle is caused by the nock point being incorrect. Once you have that under control, make sure your brace is within the recommended range for your bow. If you go to 7595 shafts you will probably have to add point weight. Just my two cents.

[JamesKerr]

I would recommend stripping the fletching off one of the shafts and bare shaft tuning it. Fletching can hide a lot of arrow flight problems with field tips. After you have bareshafts tuned to your bow you shouldn't have to do very much at all with your fletched arrows if anything.

[flinthead]

Bought a Morrison used, just spent a month trying to get consistant shooting out of it. Built up the riser[grip wrap-like a bigger grip] , put high point on floor plate and side plate, changed strings, played with several different arrows and point weights, and it is shooting fine. Tried to sell it twice. Finally got it ready to go. A big part was my bad form and release. Just glad I found the best , most forgiving combination. Just keep trying different things.  Thanks, Roy

[Bjorn]

You gotta' strip those feathers off and bare shaft. It will tell you immediately; if you are getting any signs with feathers on then you are likely off by a fair bit in your tuning.