GT inserts will NOT stay in!!!!!!

[Bullfrog 1]

I have tried every glue, epoxy, cleaned not cleaned. Roughed up not roughed up. Hit some thing hard and they back out a little>  WTF??

[agtex42]

How long are you letting them cure before shooting them? I used to have problems with the older GT inserts but since they've gone to the newer design (believe within the last 2-3 years) I have has any issues getting them to stay in. I use Bohning insert iron for my inserts and footing and have yet to have one back out on me but I always wait 24 hours to shoot them after the initial glue-up.

[gonefishing600]

Never had any problems with mine, except for one time I misplaced my insert for some GT Trades I had laying around for about 6 months or so. I decided to put them together, and couldn’t find the insert. So I bought some off of e b a y, and they were real loose. Of course I never glued them in.

When you are installing the inserts do they slide in fairly easy, or do you have to slightly force them in?

They make a round wire brush for roughing up the inside of the shaft. The only other thing I could recommend is, stop hitting things that are hard.

Good luck.

[khardrunner]

Jb weld or 24hr epoxy.

[Cecil]

I had trouble keeping them in. I tryed afew things got some hotmelt from Big Jim have not had one come loose or out. he has a video on it. I think it is on youtube.

[Stump73]

X2 big jim hotmelt. Also if you didn't use acetone or nail polish remover to clean the oils out of the shaft and off the insert.

[Bullfrog 1]

Tried big Jim's. I can even turn them with pliers and get them loose. Ive used 24 hour epoxy and waited at least that long to shoot them??

[Bud B.]

I use Gorilla super glue without issue. And after having tried to remove inserts glued in with Gorilla super glue I can tell you it holds freakishly well.

[Bullfrog 1]

Cleaned with acetone and wire brushed them. I know on Jim's video he doesn't even clean them.  They do fit rather loose compared to other shafts I've shot.  Bill

[reddogge]

I wire brush inside of shaft, rough up with a small riffler file, clean with acetone, sand the insert to rough it up, use SLOOOOOW cure epoxy. Never loose one.

[Jeff Strubberg]

If by hard you mean concrete or a rock, yeah, they are gonna back out a bit.  That's one heck of an abrupt stop.

If you aren't losing them, that's the best the glue is gonna do, realistically.

From a guy who hits concrete way too often...

[Keefer]

Something I have never tried but works on about anything as long as you let it cure overnight is a tube of "Plumbers Goop" And I know you can get it at "Lowes"...It's a wicked heavy siliconed based plumbers friend and I have used it on leather goods such as holding my hood foam in my hoods,shelf side plates,handle wraps on my longbows,tennis shoes and just this week on a pool patch that worked like a charm...
 I thought maybe this would work on a insert in carbons and aluminums.... All I can say is this stuff is a tube of Trad bowhunters friend and everyone should invest in a tube...
It costs just under $5.00 and a big tube that is purple in color...I use it at work all the time and put some on a popsickle stick and let it dry and try to peel it off in a few hours....I bet if you tried it on inserts it will be the "Next Best Insert Adhesive" ever made and could be used for those footings on carbons as well...Heck I think I will put some on my field points now that I think about it to see if they ever back out again...I think I'm onto something  :rolleyes:

[SlowBowinMO]

Some of the inserts are sized to favor Carbon Express and as a result may be harder to keep in a GT no matter what you use, as the fit is a hair on the loose side.  So we carry inserts for both.

I've had really good results with low temp hot melt as well, all I've used is the Super 735 we carry ever since I tried it.  Very handy, would be good to try a low temp hot melt if you haven't yet.

[Robertfishes]

I use hot melt glue that Black Widow sells or recently the Bohning low temp(blue) Ferr-L-tite. I use q-tips and denatured alcohol to clean out the end of the arrow. The only time I have lost a tip is if I bury a broadhead into a tree or root...**edit** almost all of my arrows are Gold Tip Blems, I have a few aluminums and non blem Gold Tips..I use a bunson burner with denatured alcohol for my heat source..

[BigJim]

The hot melt should work fine even on the older brass inserts designed to fit both the Cx and gold tip shafts.

If you let the glue cool even slightly and then force them into the shaft, you will have problems.

You have to be able to push them in the shaft with relative ease (glue still warm and soft).

I have never cleaned a gold tip shaft since switching to the soft hot melt and don't plan on any time soon. Just don't have problems.
(CX shafts need to be cleaned!)
BigJim

[Doc Nock]

Worked for a larger retailer who also specialized in wholesale archery.  They had a hot pot of brown hot melt going in the back w here we cut arrows and installed inserts...

With the volume come fall, we never cleaned cut shafts...just tapped them out and hot melted in inserts...gave to customers, many who paid then went to the in-house range and shot.

Only ever heard of 2 pulling out...in 2 yrs working there and their backstop was that miserable Masonite laid horizontal with big all threads creating tension.

Like Jim, I've used the old style .001 or .002 smaller brass inserts for 12 yrs in GT's and never once had a pull out or a back out...

YMMV

[damascusdave]

I use a stick of older Bohning ferrule-tight with the grooves in it and it works just fine for me...one thing I do is as soon as the insert is installed I walk over to my freezer and cool the tip as quickly as possible on the ice on the sides (very old freezer)...I will try something else when and if that stick ever runs out

DDave

[Bladepeek]

I just can't imagine a properly mixed and cured 24 hour epoxy failing. I use it on my full tang knives and if I want to change handle scales for any reason, I have to grind them off right down to the bare metal. There's no way I can chip it off or peel it off with a sharp chisel. It's also pretty good as gap filler - tougher than the materials I'm gluing together.

The key for me was mixing it exactly to the correct proportions - glue to hardner- and curing at a warm temp.

[Bullfrog 1]

Bladepeek, I hear you. I am using Gflex some of the strongest epoxy on the market. I don't get it either?   BILL

[KentuckyTJ]

Yep, thats the reason I stopped using GT's. They seem to have an issue with that in some batches. I had a dozen that did that as well. Thats why I went to Carbon Express' and haven't had any slip outs in four dozen now. The CE's are also heavier per inch for similar spined shafts.

I clean them all very well and use hot melt glues.

I like hot melts as I like to tinker and use different point/insert scenerios for different bows.