Sharpening challenged?

[Justin Falon]

paper wheels!!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!!!!!!!!!!!

[Gator1]

If you have the KME, Ron will spend some time with you it is amazing what he can do over the phone...

I have the KME Knife Sharpener, and recently got the standard stones works great.

[toehead]

my philosphy is this; there are only so many variables within my control when it comes time to release a broadhead at an animal.  One of these is the sharpness of my broadhead.  I was very challenged at sharpening until I got the KME and called Ron about 3 years ago.  Since then I have invested some $$ in an Extra Course large DMT diamond steel, another medium grit DMT diamond, and a translucent stone.  The $$ spent on the diamond stones will cut your bevel grinding time way way down, the translucent stone will hone the heck out of the edge.  I never move off the coarsest Diamond until it's shaving (see setting the bevel) everything else (as Ron likes to say) is just polishing.  I love the mirrored finish I get on my bevels (not neceserry but doesn't hurt).

[ymountainman]

Get some Ace 2blades and a chainsaw depth gauge file and in just 3or4 strokes just to remove the factory burr they are scary and will make a deer Bleed! Super easy!

[Xander]

Originally posted by Justin Falon:
paper wheels!!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!

paper wheels!!!!!!!!!!!

Paper wheels!!!

Just on more vote for an excellent sharpening method!


Although I use lapping films on a granite backing, and also my own personally harvested/selected water stones.


-Cheers!

[Sharpster]

Lots of good advice above, and thanks to all who mentioned my name and still managed to refrain from cussin'.

As for sharpening, the single most critical bit of information we need to understand is:

 Sharpening any type of cutting edge requires more  knowledge  than skill.      

We don’t need a collage degree but there are just a couple things we need to understand before getting started. Here are a couple of brief, basic guidelines/tips:

1) The coarsest stone (or possibly file) you have is your best friend.

2) Don’t leave the coarsest grit till the blade shaves.

3) If you go more than 5 minutes without producing a sharp edge, the stone you’re using isn’t coarse enough. (or you might be pushing to hard).

4) Trust the stones to cut the steel. They will and they don’t need any help from us in the way of muscle exertion (added pressure). In other words, pushing harder will not help. In fact, using excessive pressure will prevent the blade from ever getting sharp.      Remember: “Ounces, not pounds”.  

After doing it about a zillion times, I’m confident that I can teach anyone basic sharpening on the phone in about 10 minutes. I’ve offered this invitation many times and it still stands. If anyone needs help sharpening just call me. I don’t care if you have one of my sharpeners or a different brand. Yes, I make and sell sharpeners but helping people achieve their first shaving sharp edge is the fun part for me!


Ron
800 561-4339

[Bear Heart]

Originally posted by Sharpster:
Lots of good advice above, and thanks to all who mentioned my name and still managed to refrain from cussin'.

As for sharpening, the single most critical bit of information we need to understand is:

 Sharpening any type of cutting edge requires more  knowledge  than skill.        

We don’t need a collage degree but there are just a couple things we need to understand before getting started. Here are a couple of brief, basic guidelines/tips:

1) The coarsest stone (or possibly file) you have is your best friend.

2) Don’t leave the coarsest grit till the blade shaves.

3) If you go more than 5 minutes without producing a sharp edge, the stone you’re using isn’t coarse enough. (or you might be pushing to hard).

4) Trust the stones to cut the steel. They will and they don’t need any help from us in the way of muscle exertion (added pressure). In other words, pushing harder will not help. In fact, using excessive pressure will prevent the blade from ever getting sharp.         Remember: “Ounces, not pounds”.  

After doing it about a zillion times, I’m confident that I can teach anyone basic sharpening on the phone in about 10 minutes. I’ve offered this invitation many times and it still stands. If anyone needs help sharpening just call me. I don’t care if you have one of my sharpeners or a different brand. Yes, I make and sell sharpeners but helping people achieve their first shaving sharp edge is the fun part for me!


Ron
800 561-4339

I can attest to Ron's ability to talk you through it on his KME. He got me straighted out about six years ago over the phone.

[rraming]

I have more problems with a rounded two blade than a straight. I think a straight two blade is pretty simple stuff.

[Izzy]

Abowyers practically sharpen themselves.

[Biathlonman]

Well fellas I appreciate all the comments.  I've been working at it hard the last couple of days and I think I cracked the code.  I'm about 90% sure I need a coarser stone to start.  When I used a cheaper stone I forgot I had that is fairly coarse things came right together with an ace head.  Going to grab a quality coarse stone and see if my problems don't go away.

[Doc Nock]

I did everything right watching Ron's on line videos except ONE!

I didn't get my edge shaving sharp with the coarsest stone.

     

I don't know how many times poor Ron went over and over that with me on the phone... but it finally sunk in.

Every year, I need a refresher, but it all boils down to the two biggies in his list:

1) Don't put too much pressure... exertion is your enemy.

2) Don't quit the coarse till you got it sharp... get the wire edge, flip and repeat the steps...

Once it's sharp, start all over with the next stone...

Amazing---of course, some of the harder steel heads take a LOT longer and a better/best stone to change the bevel.

Once that is done... and that li'l black line is GONE, you can start seeing the finish line!

[Roger Norris]

Originally posted by Biathlonman:
Why on Earth can't I sharpen a two blade broadhead?  I'm a wizard with a three blade head.  Ma3, snuffer, woodsman, doesn't matter I can have them shaving in just a few minutes.

With two blade heads I've just about tried it all.  Lansky, KME, accusharp.  I seem to have the best results with the accusharp, but even then I'm hit and miss.  I'm going to give it another week, then I'm throwing in the towel!  I'll just shoot three blades at everything!  Anybody else suffer this malady?

I find 3 blade heads to be MUCH more difficult than 2 blade heads.

I refuse to use a head I can't sharpen with just a file and leather strop. My reasoning is that a file is easy to tote in the field.

I have learned over time that most QUALITY broadheads come all ready to be touched up. They may have a burr and appear dull, but gently strop that burr edge and they get scary quick.Now KEEP THEM SHARP. Touch them up often. If they get dull, things get tougher.

Also, two blade straight edged heads are waaaaay easier to sharpen than those with a concave or convex edge.

[Justin Falon]

all good advice here.

[southpawshooter]

Very good advice here. If you are still having trouble I would take up Ron at KME on his generous offer for sharpening lessons. Ron is The Man on all things sharp!

[karrow]

i was like you then i CALLED RON @ KME. you will be glad you did

[damascusdave]

I have a nice little sharpener that works just like an Accusharp but was made for sharpening broadheads...the company name on the handle is Diamond "D" Knives and I bought it back the in the early nineties...it has a line near the sharpeners that shows the angle to draw it over the blades and that seems to be the key to getting a nice edge...if you ever find one of those in a yard sale pick it up as I do not think they are made any longer

DDave

[blackpenny]

I own or have owned  every sharpening system and tool out there. I now shoot 2 blade grizzlies and 3 blade Woodsmans and all are hair shaving sharp. I have the smooth legs to prove it! An often overlooked step in checking for steel removal is covering the blade edge with a black sharpie. It helps to see what you are actually removing and how much more work needs to be done before changing stones. I spoke at length to Ron last year and he's a pleasure to deal with. Best customer service call I ever made.

[buckracks7]

I can sharpen two blades with a butcher's steel, but try a RADA knife sharpener. They are cheap, easy to use, and work great.