carbon arrows for 60# longbow?

[treehermit]

I shoot CX 350's 31.5" with 200 gn up front on my Wesley Special that pulls 60# @ 28".

[Fanto]

GT7595 , 30.5 BOP, 320gr up front. about 675grains

i find with a cut past centre 60lb bow, that 5575s max out at 160gr, even at 29" BOP. these are about 500 grains

it just depends how heavy and how long you want your arrow as to which you should choose. I wanted 10gpp and at least 30" because my gaps are much more manageable with the longer arrow (23" at 15, 20 and 25 yards  

[tex-archer]

Fanto, what do you mean by max out?

[Fanto]

tex-archer

i mean that the maximum weight that the 5575 can carry up front, from a 60lb cut to centre bow, is 160gr. more than that and they spine weak. all of this assumes 29" length.

if you cut them down, you can shoot more weight.

this is what ive found bareshafting and paper tuning. in particular paper tuning. at 160gr i get bullet holes, at 220gr i get a left tear.

[Shawn Leonard]

Need more info. but if you draw 28"s than a .400 spine carbon cut to 29.5"s will be the ticket. You will have to experiment with point weight cause a lot of stuff influences the correct spine your bow needs, string type, silencers, and such. A good starting point would be that 29.5" .400 spine with 250 grains up front. Than play with it until you get the flight you want. Fanto I am sorry is flat wrong, I know guys who are shooting 60# longbows with 29" 55/75s and they are shooting 275-325 grains of point weight. I find that funny as I shoot a .500 spine cut to 29.5"s out a high performance 54# recurve and shoot 190 grains up front, too get a .400 spine to fly well out of the same bow cut to 29.5"s I need 300 grains of point weight and maybe more never finished tuning to see. Shawn

[Fanto]

[Fanto]

Originally posted by Fanto:
Hi Shawn,

I respect your view on this, I am sure you have much, much more experience than I.

Perhaps I am too concerned with what the bareshaft and paper tuning is tellimg me, which is the same as what Stu Miller's calculator tells me. Perhaps none of this is important? I just want good arrow flight in the end, I dont care if im right or wrong.

I have also come accross people shooting 3555s with 275 up front, 29" long, out of 70lb before centre annd 60lb to centre bows. they got fine arrow flight.

Ill give you some specifics on the setup, if you would comment it would be great.

Bow: Martin hunter, late model, 62", 60#@28, drawn 28. Arrows: 5575s, 29" carbon length , 100gr brass insert. cut 3/16 past centre.

to paper tune: standing 6 yards away from a paper frame.

Shot fletched arrows 3555s, 5575s, 7595s with varying point weights.

3555s bareshafted 1 foot right of the fletched group with 220 grs up front.

the 5575 tore left 1" with the 120gr points (220 total) dropped to 100, 80 then 60gr points. got single holes at 60gr points. broadheads dont come in 60gr, so went to 7595.

7595s, left at 29.5 as I knew i was going to need a lot of weight even at that length. Straight to 220gr points, 100gr inserts. Paper tuned as above, single holes.

Bareshaft tuning: bareshafts group average 1-2" right of fletched groups. nock always a bit left.

let me know what you think?

thanks

[bowfanatik]

Hi
I have two setup
Light= 5575(400) cut on 29" , insert 50 grain + 175 point and that is 8.6 GPP , good for 3D and some deer .
but :-) , hogs love heavy ! So , i have Heavy setup
7595(300) cut on 31" , insert 50 and point 250 grain
Boooho :-) . They are bad like sin .
I think i will use only heavy setup
____________________________________________________
i forget to tell you , you must do bare shaft test !

[PA Bones]

I draw 29" and shoot 60#  I would recommend Carbon Express 350's with 250 gr. head, or Gold Tip 75/95 with 250 gr. head.  I would recommend bare-shaft testing to get the proper length.  Works well for me.

[tex-archer]

I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?

[bowfanatik]

" The best way I've found to figure that out is to bare shaft tune them (if you haven't already).
I'll take the arrows that I think should be in the right spine category, add the tip I want on a full length shaft,
 then shoot them with no feathers at 5 or 10 yards.
If they tail to the right, they're too stiff, so try adding more point weight.
 If they tail left, they're too weak. Cut them down, starting a half inch at a time from the nock end, and repeat.
you'll see them get closer to straight. When you're getting close, only take 1/4" off at a time. If they're cut down as far as you can get them and still spine weak, try reducing point weight. (this doesn't seen to have as much effect on super stiff arrows). If it still spines weak, then you need to get a stiffer spined arrow and try again.
Once I learned how to do this, it DRAMATICALLY improved my shooting. Charts only do so much good, there are several variables that they can't really account for, and self tuning them is the way to go in my opinion."
   

[Fanto]

Well now this is a fairly well debated point . Byron ferguson says yes, OL adcock says no don't worry,  I'm sure there will be opinions here.

Read this:  http://www.archersreference.co.uk/download.html

My view is no it doesn't, so long as the fletched shafts fly perfectly and  I check that by paper tuning.

[bowfanatik]

Originally posted by tex-archer:
I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?

nock high or down is not problem , (nock left or right IS PROBLEM)

this should not concern you, it is your release or material (leather, with the hair, etc) for shelf

[bowfanatik]

Originally posted by Fanto:
Well now this is a fairly well debated point . Byron ferguson says yes, OL adcock says no don't worry,  I'm sure there will be opinions here.

Read this:   http://www.archersreference.co.uk/download.html  

My view is no it doesn't, so long as the fletched shafts fly perfectly and  I check that by paper tuning.

Sorry mate , but bare shaft test is basic of tuning .
"fletched shafts fly perfectly"

how to get to that part, to fly well?
By accident?

What if do not fly well? That removes feathers, cut arrows and it all over again? It is far more difficult way for the traditional bow, for the other bows is ok

[Fanto]

Originally posted by bowfanatik:
 

Originally posted by tex-archer:
I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?

nock high or down is not problem , (nock left or right IS PROBLEM)

[/b]

See OL"s tuning guide says to ignore the shaft angle in the target.

It seems to me we should aim for bareshaft  arrows dead straight in the target but what the heck do I know anyway.

[bowfanatik]

If is OL = Olimpic bow--recurve
This is not what will help him, he has no arrow rest that adjusts ...... like I said for the other bows that's ok  

[Fanto]

OL adcock!! He knows a lot about bows and arrows. And tuning. He holds fligt records.

[Fanto]

If  you read the archers reference, they tune with a stiff plunger to sort out the arrow spine, then use the plunger to get to perfection. So the principles are the same

[bowfanatik]

I give up    

[tex-archer]

Bowfanatik, me too.