Another question about GT 3355 or 1535

[Ifrit617]

Okay guys I posted a few days ago about getting some gold tip traditional shafts for my 43# Ben Pearson recurve that is cut past center.

It seemed like the general consensus was that it would be easier to tune the 1535's. These will be hunting shafts however and in order to get the total arrow weight I want, I need to get the 100 grain inserts. If I shoot a 125 broad head with the 100 grain insert, that's 225 grains up front.

I am worried that with this heavy FOC weight, the 1535's will spine to weak, and feel the 3555's would be a better choice. With this in mind which shaft would you chose to set up your arrows?

Input would be awesome. Thanks.

Jon

[reddogge]

How long is your draw? I shot 1535s out of 45# bows with 50 gr inserts and 125 gr point and they were cut 28.5". These were not hunting arrows. Perhaps you'd be better with a longer heavier arrow for hunting.

[jess stuart]

You can always add weight tube or, I just added some nylon rope to the shafts and they weigh right at 500 grains. I would try the 1535 first if it were me, assuming your draw length is somewhere around 28" or so.

[JimB]

First,you can't just arbitrarily decide on point weight just to achieve the overall weight you would like to have.A change of point weight changes dynamic spine,hence,tuning.Point weight has to be determined by tuning.Most likely,35/55's would come the closest but I can't tell you exactly what up front weight you need.That would have to come with tuning.Having a good overall weight but an untuned arrow is going backwards.If you are well versed with Stu's Calculator,you might be able to get a close idea on both shaft sizes and that would give you a STARTING point to tune from.Good luck with them.

[Flying Dutchman]

If you need 225 up, it's going to be 3555, no doubt. And indeed try Stu as starting point and to get you a rough idea.

[Mryan2176]

3555. I tuned my k mag for a third time. Gt 3555 cut to 29.5 with 250 up front fly perfect. Much more forgiving than the 2016s i was shooting. My bow is 45 at my 28 " draw length. I would suggest starting at full length. According to stu's calculator these should be weak out of my bow. They are perfect.

[Centex]

Start with full length 3555s.  You'd have to cut 1535s pretty short with a that recurve cut past center.  Shoot first then cut.  I always end up regretting the decision to cut then tune.

[reddogge]

Originally posted by JimB:
First,you can't just arbitrarily decide on point weight just to achieve the overall weight you would like to have.A change of point weight changes dynamic spine,hence,tuning.Point weight has to be determined by tuning.Most likely,35/55's would come the closest but I can't tell you exactly what up front weight you need.That would have to come with tuning.Having a good overall weight but an untuned arrow is going backwards.If you are well versed with Stu's Calculator,you might be able to get a close idea on both shaft sizes and that would give you a STARTING point to tune from.Good luck with them.

In a hunting arrow that's exactly what I do. Kind of a reverse engineering project or another way to skin the cat. I decide what broadhead I want to use, weigh it and the adapter and tune the arrow to that weight up front. Then switch to field points of the same weight. The final weight of the shaft is taken into consideration too but that usually takes care of itself and they wind up in the right range.

[reddogge]

duplicate post

[reddogge]

duplicate post

[Ifrit617]

Ok. I know I can't choose a point weight right away, I just chose 125's as a starting point!

I will get the 3555's and tune them full length uncut as a starting point and cut them shorter as I go.

My draw length is 27.5"

Thanks for the input, and anymore is welcome.

Jon

[pukwana]

I tune the same as reddogge, decide what weight I want up front and then start bareshafting and cutting down until the arrow tunes.  Consider trying some aluminum arrows so you dont have to overload the front.

[Hobow]

Instead of front loading just to get the weight up, I would personally look at the Carbon Express 90's.   At 9.71 grains per inch you can arrive at an identical weight with a standard insert and a 125 grain point.  

Sure, they cost a little more but after you spend almost 15 more dollars on 100 grain inserts for the Gold Tips the price is about the same.

Not trying to muddy the waters but I've been down the exact same road and will buy CE 90's next time.  

Brad

[heydeerman]

With your bow being cut   past  past center it will require a stiffer shaft that one would think. It might want 5575 but I would try 3555 first. I am confident the 3555 would work with 250 up front on a bow cut   to  to center at that draw weight.

[Ifrit617]

The bow may be cut to center, its hard to say for sure. It is not a target type setup with an enormous cut past center shelf. It just seems a tad (say 1/16") past center. But it may just be my eyes fooling me. Either way, after reading your advice, I still think 3555's are the best bet.

I would rather not shoot the CE 90's just because of the smaller diameter shaft and the hassle that brings when mounting broadheads. Plus if you do the math even with that setup, you are still 70 grains lighter than the 3555's. I appreciate the tip though.

Jon

[Shawn Leonard]

Nope, buy the 15/35s. They are 30"s and shoot the 225 up front and at that they may be a bit stiff out of that bow depending on your exact draw. The 35/55's you will need at least 350 grains up front if not more. I am shooting a 43# Root recurve at my 28" draw and I am shooting a 30" .600 spine with 240 up front andthey fly perfect 100 grain insert 125 grain head and a 15 grain footing for the 240! Shawn

[Ifrit617]

OK if you are having those results, I guess I'm now buying the 1535's. Thanks.

Jon