Bare shaft tune question (pic)

[Cyclic-Rivers]

The charts indicate I am weak.  the fletched arrows are flying pretty good.  

I am afraid to keep cutting.  Is the desired result to have all 4 arrows in the same hole?  

   

I am new to carbons tuning.  what would you do?

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I would like to add, I have cut off 3/4 of an inch and the bare shafts have moved over more to the left about 2-3 inches from where I started.

Also I want to stay with a 250 grain point to use for hunting.

[ny state land]

Charlie,
Try this info from Ol's sight. It discusses fletched shafts compared to bare shafts.

 http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

[grouseshooter002]

Charlie,
Please supply more info such as bow and how close to center it is cut. What weight points are you using and how far are you shooting? Any other info that you can supply would be helpful. The object is not to have them in the same hole, but grouped together.

Rick

[Friend]

The consistent bare shaft mark relative to the fletched shafts provides a decent position where BH tipped shafts would mark.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Stacy, I have been looking at that site, that's why I figured they were weak.

Rick,  I am shooting a 59 Kodiak replica. 53@28.  I draw 28 3/4.  It is cut to center but the leather strike plate has me off center a smidge.

The target in the picture is at 20 yards.

Friend, I plan to use these for hunting.  I have magnus snuffers. I want to make sure they will fly the same

I am just afraid of cutting too much.  

Do you guys recommend I keep cutting a 1/4 inch at a time?  what size group is acceptable?

[ishoot4thrills]

Charlie,

I'll tell ya exactly what you need to do. This is the same exact thing I do with every bow I have had since I saw the guide on O.L.'s site. Add material to your side plate, when showing weak, a little bit at a time until you get the desired results. Works like a charm and it's much better than cutting anymore length from your arrows. Trust me on this, bro, especially since you're shooting that group at 20 yards. Since that's the case, you're not too far from perfect. Bare shafts just a tad to the right and low compared to your fletched arrows is perfect.

[NIGEL01]

Is it a Bear 59er?  Cuz I'm having the same issue.  I can't find an arrow stiff enough, I wouldn't keep cutting your carbons, cuz I don't know that It'll make much difference, your groups are way closer than mine.  I found the shortest stiffest aluminum (2413@28") and I'm still bareshafting weak!  I've tried different strings, brace heights.  If I go to a light head it seems better but would rather not change heads.  My Carbons shoot good out of my other bows so that's why I refuse to cut them shorter.  Good luck keep us informed on what you get to work.

[ishoot4thrills]

Charlie, please give it a try, what I told you above. That's how I am able to shoot the same arrows out of the last 3 bows I have owned plus I shoot the same arrows out of my Browning Wasp recurve and my Kanati LB as well. I just adjust the thickness of my strike plate, so I like my arrows to be on the weak side to begin with so I can add material to the strike plate instead of taking material off. It's worked like a charm for me so far.  

[JimB]

What is the spine of your arrows and what is the current length of them?

[Pheonixarcher]

At 20 yards, you're pretty darn close! Are your fletched shafts the same length, and have you tried shooting a broadhead yet? With those results, I'd bet a broadhead will be pretty close, if not spot on. When I get that close, I'll only cut an 1/8" if my broadheads aren't flying perfectly. If you don't want trim anymore off the shaft, building out the strike plate, or trying a little harder strike plate material is a great option. 20 is good, but 30 will tell the whole story.

[Easykeeper]

The picture shows two fletched arrows almost touching and two bare shafts right on top of each other, that's very good accuracy.  If you had the right combination of spine, length, and point weight both the fletched shafts and bare shafts would all be together.  Like you said your arrows are showing weak.  I like to have my bare shafts and fletched impacting together, others like a slightly weak reaction...but I think that's probably a little weak for anybody, especially at only 20 yards.  With your shooting skills I would do your bare shaft tuning at 25-30 yards if possible.  Get bare and fletched grouping together at 30 yards and you know you are well tuned.

Rather than cut your shafts back I would try lighter points just to see how weak your shafts are.  Even if you don't want to use the lighter points it's cheaper than cutting arrows and would give you a lot of information.  I would throw the lightest point I had on there and see what happens.  In other words, try to make them too stiff, if you can you know somewhere in the middle is optimal.  Sometimes it saves a lot of time to make a big change rather than sneak up on it.  Changing point weight is easy and reversible if it wasn't the right move.  If you find you only need to go down 25-50 grains, cutting might work or you could play with side plate thickness or brace height.  If you need to go down to very light points, down 100 or more grains, it might be time to think of stiffer shafts.  

What are the details of your arrow now, spine and length?  I have several recurves in that draw weight range (50#-59# at my 29" draw length) and I can shoot the same 31" .340 carbon out of all of them just by tailoring the point weight to each bow (150-250grs.).

[onewhohasfun]

I agree with ishoot4thrills. Easiest way to tune for me.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

The responses so far have been helpful.  Thank you.  I will play more with it after work. especially the shift in point weight.  I dont mind cutting the arrows but its a good suggestion and makes a lot of sense.

For those who asked, I am shooting a 55/75 GT arrow with a regular 12 grain insert and 250 grain point.  They are cut to 31 1/2 inches so far.

I have looked closely at the bow and seems to have something under the strikeplate already. How far out should I consider building?

[grouseshooter002]

Charlie,
You might want to try a piece of velcro for the strike plate or a tooth pick under your present plate. Both methods work equally well.

Rick

[JimB]

I agree with Easykeeper as well.In OL's tuning information he stressed testing with point weight before any cutting.It will sort things out very quickly.

[kat]

Charlie,
     I would try a tooth pick under the side plate. If that doesn't do the trick for you, I would be surprised. Changing point weight would be my second guess. Cutting more off is an option, but the other fixes are reversible, and if you cut too short, well............

[jhg]

Building out the side plate, as mentioned, is really a great way to get that last 3 or 4 inches of weak out.
Then try 30 yards.

Joshua

[smokin joe]

Charlie,
To experiment, you might try building out the side plate with a few layers of tape, adding another layer or two at a time until you get things settled. That is easy to adjust and change as you go. Once you like the bare shaft group you can then transfer that tape pad to under your side plate. Then you are done.

Good luck, my friend.
Joe

[Huh]

If you are nervous that cutting will help try changing point weight or building out the shelf first.  If you drop point weight and the groups come together then you know that a stiffer shaft will help.  You can confidently then go back up to 250 and cut a 1/4" and reevaluate.  Same goes for the shelf if done in a temporary sort of way, like what smokin joe describes.