Bare shaft tune question (pic)

[Cyclic-Rivers]

OK folks it sounds like I have 2 smart options at this point.  I will give them a try and report back.  If the first trick works, I will quit there.  First I will try the strike plate. Then will play with point weight.

I will eventually use 250 grains up front for hunting.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

OK I built up the strike plate a bit.  The first pic was before, the second is Now.  suggestions at this point?  Is this acceptable?  Perhaps I should keep building up the strike plate?

 


 

[Shawn Leonard]

Charlie, PM me with your draw length and what shafts you are shooting along with their spine. I will get ya on the money. I am pretty good at this! Shawn

[grouseshooter002]

Charlie,
If you were to add feathers to the two bare shafts I believe that all four arrows would be right together. Why not try fletching them and shooting your broadheads. If you aren't satisfied you can always take the feathers back off.

Rick

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Originally posted by grouseshooter002:
Charlie,
If you were to add feathers to the two bare shafts I believe that all four arrows would be right together. Why not try fletching them and shooting your broadheads. If you aren't satisfied you can always take the feathers back off.

Rick

Thanks Rick, I was thinking to just fletch them all up but wanted them to be tuned right and didnt want "flaws" hidden by the fletching.  in all the bare shafting reports they were talking about getting the bare shafts to group with the fletched shafts.  I cannot seem to get that result.  

I built up my strike plate and the fletched arrows moved left and the bare shafts stayed right. This is at 28 yards, I am blinded by the sun any closer right now.

Maybe I am putting to much into it?

[Easykeeper]

Go back to the original strike plate thickness (so you are only changing one thing at a time), then put on the lightest point you have and see what happens.  You are just diagnosing at this point, not committing to the lighter point.

[Shawn Leonard]

PM'ed ya bud. You are too stiff no doubt about it. Your bow would need to be 60#s at your draw to get where you want to be. You are still ok, just try what I PM'ed ya! I am shooting a new Caribow but past center and it is 54#s at my 28" draw and I am shooting a 29.5" .500 spine with 190 grains up front. Trust me, why would you shoot an arrow spined to be cut to 28-29" and shot from 60# compound bows out of a 50-55# recurve. It can be done but you need to add an awful lot of point weight. You are getting an opposite reaction cause you are way too stiff!! Shawn

[ishoot4thrills]

HHHmmmmm.....never before thought about what Shawn is saying. Maybe he's on to something. I guess I never really saw what spine arrows you were shooting until I reread all of the posts. Yes, it would seem as though those arrows would be too stiff. Try going the opposite way instead and remove everything from the strike plate and see what happens then. You'd better be taking lots of breaks during the process before you get too tired also.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Originally posted by Easykeeper:
Go back to the original strike plate thickness (so you are only changing one thing at a time), then put on the lightest point you have and see what happens.  You are just diagnosing at this point, not committing to the lighter point.

went to 75 grains, tried them at 100, 125, 145, 225 and 250.  all the same.

here is 100, 125 and 145.

 

 

 

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Makes sense Shawn, Thats why all my results are showing weak???

[Easykeeper]

Actually Shawn recommended a weaker shaft, your 5575 is a .400.  He is correct though that if you are getting any kind of contact from too stiff of a shaft it can appear as a weak reaction at the target and during tuning.

I would still guess you are weak, I always need a .340 in that bow range (heavy points though), but you can tell by the recommendations you are getting that there is really no accurate way to predict spine, there are just too many variables...not the least of which is our personal form.  What Shawn recommended would never work in my bow (50#29") but obviously does for him.  Might be a good idea to try a different spine.

I'm surprised you didn't get some visible change with that span of point weight.  I've found that once you are close you can see a stiff vs. weak reaction just 25 grains on either side of correct but if you are way off nothing seems to change or make sense.  The thing is...are you off weak or stiff.  I think you will need to try a different spine, maybe buy two or three to experiment with.

Good luck, bare shaft tuning can drive you nuts, but when you get it right you have fabulous arrow flight, and your bows will be as quiet and efficient as it can be...      

[Shawn Leonard]

Impossible that he is weak. I know a lot of guys including myself that shoot .400 spine cut to 29-30"s out of 62-65# bows tdrawn to 28-29"s and high performing bows and we need anywhere from 225 at a minimum to 325 grains up front depending on the bow. Think about it. I know several guys shooting 425 grain point weight and .500 spine cut to 29"s out of 50# longbows. Our own Rob(moderator)does!! I have been experimenting for 17 years with carbons and most times get guys very close, after hundreds and hundreds of PM's on the subject. Shawn

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Taking Shawn's suggestions to Heart,  Have 100 Grain brass inserts coming this weekend.

Until then I will shoot wood.

[twistedlim]

It really is not that bad.  I think you will be much better off with and arrow that is a tad weak as opposed to too stiff.  Try some broad heads and see where you come in.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

OK played with the set up a bit.

Moved up to 350 grains up front.  Made a new string, played with brace height and nock height.  I am happy where I am at right now.

I will keep the temporary nock point on for when I foot the shaft, and shoot broadheads, just in case an adjustment is needed.

 

Thanks for the help.

[JLeMieux]

There you go!

[Beanbag]

That's the ticket

[jhg]

Originally posted by Shawn Leonard:
...You are too stiff no doubt about it. Your bow would need to be 60#s at your draw to get where you want to be. ...You are getting an opposite reaction cause you are way too stiff!! Shawn

I tried Shawns advice and he is correct. False weak reading from carbons is common. The diff in how my bareshafts and fletched arrows fly once I went to a weaker spine, same weight up front, is astounding- night and day and I thought I was close before and cutting a stiffer spined arrow even more was what the bareshafts were telling but it was wrong-a false weak.

Joshua, shooting 400's over 31" long with 250ish up front from a 52# @31" center cut R/D longbow.

[Keith Langford]

Replace your side plate with a martin soft pad and use double sided carpet tape to attach, I would be willing to bet 1/8 more off the arrow and the new side plate will be spot on. then if your left to right is off a little with fletched arrows you can add the double sided tape one piece at a time, this will move the arrow left, if your right handed

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Thanks guys.  

Keith it was nice meeting you at Denton even though it was brief.  

I shot broadheads today and they were hitting right where the field points were out to 25 yards.  I was keeping everything in a tennis ball size area which is very very good for me.  

I am happy with the current set up for hunting.