Why cant I get this arrow tuned ?

[bccalls2011]

Have you guys ever had an arrow and point size you thought was perfect for your setup and no matter what you tried you still couldn't get it to fly straight when bare shaft tuning. I have a thunderchild center cut pulling 50 @27 and tried to get a gt 5575 with 175 up front to flight straight but with no luck. I tried all different weight sizes from 100-250 with a full lenght shaft and they all shot weak. I even cut the shaft down slowly no more than a 1/4 to 1/8 at a time continuing to try different weights with no luck at all. I had to stop cause i was at my limit with cutting past my draw length. So after all that I pulled out a 7595 with a 175 head and she almost shot straight on, just a little off the tip and I think she would be straight on. You guys got any info that can help me out.
Thanks Matt

[wingnut]

Matt,

I could be a false weak and actually too strong for your bow.

Any time I get a weak the first thing I do is add tip weight and force it to be weaker so I confirm the truth.

Mike

[Rock 'N Bow]

I'm with Mike. I've had arrows so stiff that they would bounce off the strike plate making it appear they were way too weak.

[Fanto]

Paper tune them.

5575s are good for 175 up front at 29" shot form a 60# bow in my experience.

i think youll need more weight up front

[bccalls2011]

Thanks guys but I tried adding weight at various lengths while cutting down but I would still no matter what get a weak reading rather the shaft was at full length or 29 inches. I stuck with 175 most of the time cause that is the weight i am wanting to shoot.

[bccalls2011]

Thanks guys but I tried adding weight at various lengths while cutting down but I would still no matter what get a weak reading rather the shaft was at full length or 29 inches. I stuck with 175 most of the time cause that is the weight i am wanting to shoot.

[WESTBROOK]

You need a 35/55 not a 55/75.

[Todd Cook]

Originally posted by WESTBROOK:
You need a 35/55 not a 55/75.

He's probably right.

[Shawn Leonard]

Mike has it right!! If you draw 27"s than a 28.5" arrow with 225 is where ya should be with that bow with a .500 spined arrow. If ya draw 28"s than go with a 29.5" and 175-190 grain point. Why in the world do guys think that an arrow made for 80# compounds can be made to shoot out of 50# traditional bows is beyond me, even full length you would need over 400 grains of point weight to get good flight out of the 75/95s and most likely more! Shawn

[Bladepeek]

I get the feeling that you're determined to shoot a 5575 and a 175gr head. I would agree with westbrook that a 3555 might be a better bet. You can shorten them down a bit and get quite a lot of stiffness out of them.

I can shoot them out of my 47@28" bow that is 50
# at my 29" with anywhere from 145 to 190gr points. The 190s make them a bit weak and they hit a bit lower, but they don't fly bad at all at 20 yds. 145 to 175 fly really great. I shoot 145gr field tips and 160gr Zwickey 2-blades. Mine are cut 30.25". I'll bet you if you start a little on the long side with 175s and start cutting back, you will see some nice flight before you get below 30".

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I was in the same boat this very week.  I ended up with 350 grains up front, thought 250 would do it but didnt.

I was bareshafting and the results showed weak.  It was a false reading, my shafts were too stiff.

I agree with going to a weaker shaft like 35/55 or leaving your 55/75's full length and going up in weight on the point.

[Biathlonman]

Go with what the bow tells you.  I've never gotten a. 500 spine arrow to shoot out of any bow.  And once tuned, .400s are right on the edge of being to light overall weight wise for my preference.  I've come to really like. 340 shafts, usually ics bowhunters out of #50ish pound bows.

I can't figure out why folks suggest a. 500 when you tell them a. 400 is weak.

[beachbowhunter]

Originally posted by WESTBROOK:
You need a 35/55 not a 55/75.

Agreed.

[CHENRYIV]

my Thunderchild is  a 52# at 26 and  I draw 26 1/2.  I shoot  GT 3555 cut to 28" w/ 100g insert and 145g point. I get great bareshaft flight. I forgot to add that I'm also using a SBD skinny string.

[bccalls2011]

Ok thanks for the help guys, I will give the 3555 a try.

[Shawn Leonard]

Biathlonman, can you tell me why you would shoot an arrow to be shot from 75# compound bows out of 50ish # recurves or lonbows. Even full length I can promise a 340 willbe stiff out of 50ish # bows even with a lot of point weight. Been experimenting with carbons for 17 years and have shot them out of over 110 different custom and production bows and get most people right on with an arrow for their set-up. I know guys shooting .500 spine out of 50# longbows with 400 grains up front for perfect flight. Carbon recovers from paradox way quicker than wood or aluminum. If you are paper testing you need to shoot from 12-15ft. to see a true result with trad bows. Shawn

[joe skipp]

35/55 spine with a minimum 250 grains up front. I would leave the arrows 29" in length.

[LookMomNoSights]

You are too stiff.  Period!  You should be using 3555's.

[Easykeeper]

Originally posted by bccalls2011:
Have you guys ever had an arrow and point size you thought was perfect for your setup and no matter what you tried you still couldn't get it to fly straight when bare shaft tuning. I have a thunderchild center cut pulling 50 @27 and tried to get a gt 5575 with 175 up front to flight straight but with no luck. I tried all different weight sizes from 100-250 with a full lenght shaft and they all shot weak. I even cut the shaft down slowly no more than a 1/4 to 1/8 at a time continuing to try different weights with no luck at all. I had to stop cause i was at my limit with cutting past my draw length. So after all that I pulled out a 7595 with a 175 head and she almost shot straight on, just a little off the tip and I think she would be straight on. You guys got any info that can help me out.
Thanks Matt

I would let your tuning tell you what works and don't worry what the number on the shaft says or what others are shooting.  You, you bow, and the arrow are a system that works together, what works for others may or may not work for you.

Our draw lengths and bow weights are slightly different but I always end up with a .340 for my bows in the 50# and up range.  Point weight depends on the bow but the range is 150-250 grains for a 31" arrow...for me.  Go with what your bow is telling you, get your bare shafts and fletched grouping together at 25-30 yards and call it good.

[Biathlonman]

Shawn, I can't tell you why it works but it does.  I've paper tuned from 6 feet to 15 yards with bullet holes and can shoot bare shafts right with fletched to 35 yards.  I'm thinking the 8 strand SBD strings I shoot have something to do with it.  I've not tuned a hundred but at least 20 in the last few years.  I can tune. 400 but the arrows are max 530 grains and I like a little heavier.