How do you tune your arrows?

[Caughtandhobble]

It would be nice to hear the different ways that everybody tunes their arrows to their bow.

Here's what I do, I always start with Stu's Calculator, it seems to work very well for me.

I use Adcock's method of bare shaft tuning. It's basically shooting a group of arrows fletched with feathers, then comparing that group to a group of bare shaft arrows with the same specs. I make my adjustments based on where the bare shaft group is in comparison to the fletched group.    

Let's say I am shooting a clock target and my fletched carbon arrows are grouping in the center of the clock. OK, I'm right handed so the results will be opposite for you lefties.

Bare shaft groups on our imaginary clock target along with adjustments are listed below. Remember our feathered arrows are in the center of the clock and we make the adjustments on the bare shaft group.

-dead center or slightly low right= (tuned)
-9 clock= stiff shaft (add point weight)
-3 clock= weak shaft (reduce weight or length)
-12 clock = low nock (raise nock)
-6 clock = nock high (lower nock)

Wood arrows, I do the same thing, except I use arrows with broadheads instead of bare shafts. The adjustments are the same as above, we are simply using broadheads on arrows instead of bare shaft arrows. This works great for me.

[Bowwild]

Like you I start with Stu's calculator. I've been using it since late 2010 I think.

I set a pair of nock locators (above and below the nock) positioning the nock 5/8" above horizontal. I use serving thread or bowstring material as tied on locators. I don't go anywhere near my string with the brass locators. I shoot 3-under.

Then I shoot paper with fletched arrows at 6-8 feet.

It is usually the case that I'm done at this point with an untorn hole.

If I get a left or right tear, depending upon whether or not I'm shooting off the shelf or from a plunger-equipped springy rest, I adjust the sideplate in or out.

In some cases I might change point weight 25-50 grains.

My next test is actual arrows with field points in flight to 30 yards. Then the final proof is to put the broadhead I intend to hunt with on the arrow. I shoot the broadhead and then 2-3 field points. I expect them to group together or something isn't right.

This works for me very well.

[Shawn Leonard]

I throw Stu's calculator out the window, than I start tuning fro my own experience. I paper tu.e at 12-15 ft. and cut all my arrows to 29.5"s and than tune with point weight. 9 out of 10 guys I have seen use Stus calculator are overspined. I watched some guys at the muzzy shoot that haf tuned with his recommendation shoot and they need a minimum of 100 more grains of point weight to even start to get good flight. Too each their own! Shawn

[Easykeeper]

I do it about the same as you Caughtandhobble except I don't use the calculator.  I just make an educated guess and since I have .500, .400, and .340 shafts, both fletched and unfletched I just grab my first guess, see if the bare shaft flies somewhere near straight at relatively close range, then go to the traditional method you outlined...shooting and comparing impact between two or three bare shafts and two or three fletched shafts.

Paper tuning could get me in the ball park too, but I never shoot through paper anymore.  It used to be my first step but for me it's just more efficient to go straight to bare shaft tuning since my primary goal is bare shafts and fletched grouping together at 25-30 yards.  At that point I've never not been able to swap the field point for the same weight broadhead and have the broadheads flying true and hitting the same spot as field points...my ultimate goal.

I paper tune at 6'. When I get everything right there I back the paper up to about 15' and verify everything is still the same.

I just put a new string on my longbow the other day and this was my first two shots at 6' (I know this bow pretty well so everything gets real close before I even shoot thru the paper):

 

Then I shoot groups at distance with field points.

Then I shoot groups at distance with field points and broadheads and make sure they all do the same thing.

Then I go hunt!

Bisch

[Beanbag]

X2 on what Easy said, Jim

[Car54]

Caughtandhobble,

So being lefthanded,  bare shaft hitting three o'clock would be stiff shaft?

[Caughtandhobble]

Originally posted by Car54:
Caughtandhobble,

So being lefthanded,  bare shaft hitting three o'clock would be stiff shaft?

Yes, that is correct.

[Bowwild]

Glad I'm #10.

[JimB]

I also use OL's planing method.Now that I've shot carbons for a few years I know which spine I need and order my shafts pre cut to 30" and tune entirely by point weight.I keep a large variety of field point weights on hand plus glue on field points and adapters for building field in weights that I can't buy.

When I get dialed in well with field points,I set up a broadhead,that weight, and make sure tune is as good as I thought.I use glue on broadheads and steel adapters as it gives me a lot of versatility in matching any weight that the setup calls for.

[Brianlocal3]

I follow Byron Fergusons way in that I stand at 10 ft from my bag target and shoot bareshafts/then cut a little at a time untill they are sticking in straight.

I want to use 175gr heads so I never change FP's in my tunning. I only cut and or mess with BH and nock height a little.

This always leads me to a well flying BH.

[SAVIOUR68]

VERY CAREFULLY       I PREFER TO BARESHAFT BUT TOO EACH HIS OWN.

[slowbowjoe]

Still learning here, for sure, but... I paper tune at around 10 feet. After that, it's by eye, first around 18 yards, and more around 20-25 yards. I find it's easy for me to see what the arrow is doing about halfway to the target, and I fine to till they're flying straight all the way. Must be me, but I think I get the best results by eye.
Pretty much what I picked up from Rod Kelly's site, and it's worked well for me so far.

[ishoot4thrills]

I use the method of bareshaft tuning that Adcock describes as well. Works perfect for me.

[Zradix]

paper tune.

[xtrema312]

I have enough stuff around to just start bare shafting with some different shafts and point weights to see what a bow likes.  Once I see about where I am going, I sometimes go to the calculator to try combinations based on what I see developing.  I use the base line info I get from bare shafting to try combinations in the calculator to see what I can do for arrow weight, FOC and broad head weight combinations.  I always end up too stiff if I just punch in numbers in the calculator, but it does help me compare stuff.  

Most times now I shoot the same weight range bows and arrow components so I just do bare shafting to tune the combination I want to try.  I know if I am in a good range for arrow weight, and have no problems with FOC using carbons.  At first I look more at the way the shaft flies than where it hits in the group.  Some days I do not shoot that tight of groups particularly when I am working more on form and nice release vs. aiming.  When the shaft flies just a little tail high and weak, I know I am close.  

I usually take my time fine-tuning.  It is a part of my everyday shooting.  I typically shot a bare shaft off and on with 2-3 fletched arrows just to see what they do day in and day out.  It is usually hitting with or little weak low of the fletched ones most times most days.  At the same time, I am also shooting fletched arrows for POI longer ranges to see if it is shooting where I look left to right.  

When all is looking good, I then sometimes paper shoot a little too fine tune and as a double-check.  Most times, I do this when it is raining and I am shooting inside short range working on form.  Paper works great for me 3 under.  I can shoot very clean consistent bullet holes if I want.  Split I don’t get as consistent holes.  I try and still be a hair weak with a little high tear.  

Last, I shoot broad heads into a target and follow with field points.  That is where I mess with brace height or make a small shaft length change if need.  I always try and be a little on the weak side and have some extra arrow length.  That way I don’t have to get into heavier points or longer shafts at the end of the process.  

I could just group shoot FP’s and broad heads to tune, but I don’t like shooting broad head in the dirt or eating up targets with them any more than needed for tuning, and my method is just part of my shooting routine most of the time so it is not like I spend large amounts of time dedicated to fussing with my tune.

[LittleBen]

Since most tuning methods have already been covered I'll just add my experiences with Stu's Calculator ....


I use the calculator to compare two arrow setups ... for example ... lets say I'm shooting a 30" .500spine with 125gr and they're tuned well and I want more tip weight or something ... I calculate the spine of the 30" arrow on the calculator ... then I figure my desired tip weight, and shorten the shaft in the calculator until I'm near or at the dynamic spine of the first arrow ...

That gives a decent starting point for tuning the new shorter shafts with a heavier tip. Just one thought on how to do it.

I also like to keep a set of carbons, .500 spine, basically full length with normal aluminum inserts, and a bag full of brass insert weights and I keep a bareshaft for the set.

Then I can bareshaft tune that set using the tip weights till I'm basically on, and it's a good starting point for tuning up a set of woodies or something with a little less guesswork.

[dan d]

I now use Caughtandhobble's method, it works pretty good !    

Dan

[Daddy Bear]

Speaking in terms of wooden arrows.  I keep a set of test shafts running from the 50-54# through the 80-84# spine range.  They are fletched up and mounted with my favorite BHs, small game heads, and field points, cut 1" longer than my draw length.  I'm currently tuning a new Hill "Wesley Special", and it took very little time to settle on a spine group using the planing method.

Once I have the spine group narrowed down, it's fairly simple to fine tune using the broadhead planing method to get my broadheads, small game heads, and field points grouping together.  I just finished making some final nock height adjustments to get everything squared away out to 30 yards.  I pretty much have nailed down the sweet spot for my brace and nocking point, but next time out, I'll run it out past 30 yards to make my last tweeks before calling it good.

I think this works pretty well because it gets my tackle adjusted into the middle of the bell curve.  I end up with a fair amount of room to go stiffer or weaker and still shoot everything accurately.

Best  

[Fletcher]

I paper tune about like Bisch.  Generally I can go straight from the 6' tune straight to broadheads and be spot on.