Getting Started

[rodwha]

I used to shoot a few recurves with the boss either after work or if things were slow in the back of the shop. I had a lot of fun doing so, and would like to continue.

I asked for some info to help give me an idea, and was given the suggestion to come here.

I'm not exactly new to bows, but am far from experienced. I figure it best to start at the beginning anyway to ensure I didn't miss anything. Can't hurt...

I had in mind a recurve bow with a ~50# draw. It would mostly be used for fun, but if/when I got good enough I'd likely feel the need to take it hunting.

I initially had asked about bows to steer clear of, but it seemed the typical response was there weren't any terrible bows. I had figured a bow under $300 was likely to be a turd. Not so?

I've noticed how many are take down bows. I figured this to be a likely spot for breakage. Again, I was told not likely. I can see a take down bow being handy, but I think I like a one piece. The ones we were shooting were laminate.

Bear, Hoyt, and PSE are the only ones I recognize.

What cheaper arrows make good practice arrows (long lasting/shock abuse)?

When shooting in the shop we never used any sort of accessories. I found that I'd really prefer a forearm protection piece as that string would nearly skin me!

I still have other hobbies (brewing beer and black powder arms) that demand my attention and my "allowance" so I want to keep this as easy as possible.

I've seen some claim the bow doesn't need to be unstrung. What say you all in the know?

I am not looking to buy yet, but am looking for a general direction.

All opinions and guidance are welcomed.

Thanks,
Bob

[rodwha]

I saw a way to figure draw length could be done by stretching your arms and fingers and measuring. I did this where 2 walls came together and marked where my other fingers were, and measured. I then divided that by 2.5 and came up with 27.7".

I didn't understand if I should add to that to figure in broad head length, or if this number (28") would be my draw length.

Is this an accurate enough way to figure draw length?

[ronp]

Welcome to TradGang Bob.  You can learn a lot here.  If you are starting out I would recommend less than 50# at 28" draw length.  Try about 40#, if you want to start at the beginning like you said, trust me, and it will be easier, as you wanted.  Keep an eye on the classified ads here, there are some good deals.  As far as leaving the bow strung or un-strung, there are different opinions.  Just use a stringer when you string it up or un-string it.  Most of all, welcome and enjoy the ride!

[Sirius Black]

Welcome!

[rodwha]

Thanks Ron!

The bow I generally used had a 58# draw (IIRC), and an unknown draw length (likely longer as my boss was 6'4" and I'm only 5'8"). It was OK for a while, but did eventually get to be a workout.

I had figured a 50# draw weight was about ideal in that I figured (there I go figuring again!) it would cross into hunting quite well. Is a 40# bow enough for hunting? Especially something a bit bigger such as a mule deer? How about 45#s?

One guy had mentioned the takedown bow arms, and the ability to up the weight when I was skilled and ready. That sounds good, but I'm not sure I want a 3 piece bow.

[rodwha]

Thanks Sirius!

I like your signature!

[JEFF B]

welcome Bob    

[rodwha]

Got us a pow wow now!

[McDave]

You ask some good questions, and I'll just pick and choose the ones I want to respond to. Maybe not the most important ones.  Most people who buy three piece bows never take them apart.  They just like the balance of a little more weight in the riser.  If you knew which arrows you wanted to shoot, the best bargain is high priced carbon arrows, because they don't bend or break nearly as easily as wood or aluminum arrows.  But they are just as easy to lose.  And some people love to shoot wood arrows, so that's the end of the subject as far as they are concerned.  But it takes some experimentation to decide which arrows you want to shoot, and you could waste your money if you buy carbon arrows too soon. It's fairly easy to match up aluminum arrows with a bow, and you should probably just accept that you will bend or break most of your first dozen arrows pretty soon anyway, so get some aluminum arrows to get started (unless you love wood).   Which brings up the subject of repairing arrows.  I shoot just about every morning, and it's a rare morning that I don't have at least one arrow that needs to be repaired, so fletching jigs and spare nocks are probably in your future too.

The three bow companies you mention are fine companies, but probably 95% of our members shoot bows made by another 25-50 bowyers who specialize in traditional bows, such as the ones you see advertising at the top of each page.

50# is okay.  45# would probably be better for learning, and you could also hunt with it.  Nobody stops with one bow anyway.

[rodwha]

Someone had recommended the Samick Sage (spl?) bow. Is it descent? What about the little starter pack you can get with it? I typically disregard starter packs as the quality is usually quite lacking...

[rodwha]

I'll check them out. I tried a link up near the top, but it came up blank so I moved on.

[rodwha]

I see I didn't use it correctly. I just clicked on the click here instead of noticing it was a drop down menu. Oops!

I'd prefer a non big brand bow. SWMBO and I prefer to give our money to local or small businesses.

Are there any good solid piece recurves for under $300 that any of you would recommend?

[VictoryHunter]

You can get a decent bow for under $300 especially if you look for a used one. Also 40# is plenty of bow for hunting deer and similar sized game. It will also make it easier to learn proper form.

[Rob DiStefano]

welcome to trad gang.

though you do have some trad bow experience, perhaps this article can help ...

 http://www.tradgang.com/docs/trad.html

your worst enemy will be a bow that has too much holding weight.  you sure can work up to more weight, but going too fast can lead to injuries and just plain rotten accuracy.  consistent accuracy is the name of the game.  so is knowing your effective game killing distance.

if i had to sum it all up in as little words as possible, get a *Knowledgeable* local trad archery mentor if at all possible, and/or ...

• use as much bow holding weight as allows for consistent accuracy - avoid overbowing at all costs!
• at least start off using carbon arrows as they are most durable, remain the straightest, and are least affected by the elements
• feather fletching only
• work on "instinctive aiming" and practice at very short distances
• archery is a free form aiming sport, and as such your archery form is critical - starting off with correct form (for you) is crucial for getting up to speed quickly and accurately
• there's SO much more - and again, if at all possible, get a knowledgeable local mentor

good luck and enjoy the ride!  

[rodwha]

I also recall something about figuring hand/eye dominance, but I don't recall what it said about being opposing types. I'm not certain, but I used to think I was right handed, but left eye dominant as i felt it was a better picture. But I've found that I need glasses now...

How does one figure out which eye is dominant? And what do you do if it's opposing?

[Mike Most]

My Turn, to say welcome, to one heck of an awesome place... I see you mentioned recurve, but also you may want to check on different styles of longbows, (just as a matter of preference), On the subject of arrows, being from Texas and using leftover stuff from the C******* days I shot aluminum until I went hog hunting.... I'll never forget that first shot well placed and the runoff when that aluminum broke off in the underbrush. I sure like those woodies for hogs as there is more give and bend "some of the time". Colors seem to be infinite and become trade marks for lots of guys. Check out the local garage sales, some days you can find an old bear for $5 stringless but then that is easily fixed. An finally if your close to the Alamo, give me a shout I am pretty close.  

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by rodwha:
I also recall something about figuring hand/eye dominance, but I don't recall what it said about being opposing types. I'm not certain, but I used to think I was right handed, but left eye dominant as i felt it was a better picture. But I've found that I need glasses now...

How does one figure out which eye is dominant? And what do you do if it's opposing?

it's ALL there in the link i posted for ya!   :cool:

 http://www.tradgang.com/docs/trad.html

[rodwha]

Thanks Mike!

I'm not too far from the Alamo. I'm on the far northwest side. But SWMBO just got a new job (hasn't started yet) that will be virtual. We are looking at moving in a few months.

[rodwha]

Rob,

That's the one I had read. It was late, and I had been all over the net looking. I just reread it and understand now.

Despite being right handed I am left eye dominant. This means I should shoot left handed (releasing the arrow from)?

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by rodwha:
....
Despite being right handed I am left eye dominant. This means I should shoot left handed (releasing the arrow from)?

howard hill was left eye dominant and shot right handed.  he was a pretty good shooting archer and bowhunter.  :D    

so it's really up to you to decide whether or not to switch to a left handed bow, or just learn how to shoot right handed and aim with whatever eye will yield the most consistent accuracy for you.