Author Topic: Glueing broadheads on to woodies (Read 556 times)

Timberking · « **on:** August 31, 2013, 07:43:00 AM »

What is the norm for glueing broadheads onto your woodies?

I've been using hot melt glue but as of late it's been a PIA to get them straight. I know some use 2 part epoxy but is it only used for gluing broadheads onto the screw in adapters or do you guy's use them for direct mounting as well? Obviously once mounted with 2 part epoxy they are not coming off again with out destroying the arrow...

skunkhound · « **Reply #1 on:** August 31, 2013, 07:57:00 AM »

I use the Kimsha hot melt, and have no problem getting them straight. Using epoxy sounds risky. You can't adjust it once it sets, and you're gonna have a hard time reusing that broad head if the arrow ever breaks, or you just want to change it.

ChuckC · « **Reply #2 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:01:00 AM »

Using epoxy gives you plenty of time for an adjustment and spin testing. Although I have only used maybe four different epoxy types, all of them were removable by heating the broadhead and twisting the arrow to break the bond. I just did that a couple days ago to a couple arrows.

I still normally use hot melt glue, which is not that difficult to use once you figure out what you need to do.

ChuckC

Timberking · « **Reply #3 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:20:00 AM »

I'm curious what the four different epoxy brands you used were? I'm wanting to try the epoxy method and am happy to hear that they can be removed again via heat.

Dave Lay · « **Reply #4 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:29:00 AM »

ive used epoxy to glue broadheads onto screw in adaptors, but have always used hot melt for gluing them to woodies never had a problem, heat the head a little then heat the glue and put the head on, you should have time to true it up, if not just heat it a little, Ive been using PAM adhesives hotmelt lately, its a construction grade glue that works great

Knawbone · « **Reply #5 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:29:00 AM »

I fit my woodies with a field tip to get a good allignment and then fit the BH. Spin the arrow to check for straightness. Re-adjust with a little more heat if neccessary.

Knawbone · « **Reply #6 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:31:00 AM »

Forgot to mention I use hot melt glue

ChuckC · « **Reply #7 on:** August 31, 2013, 08:34:00 AM »

Dave, most recent was Devcon home 5 minute epoxy.
ChuckC

Grey Taylor · « **Reply #8 on:** August 31, 2013, 09:36:00 AM »

I don't know why this belief persists that epoxied heads are super-forever-permanent mounted on wood arrows. I routinely remove heads that have been glued on with epoxy from my broken arrows so they can be used again.
Just apply heat like you would to a head that has been glued with hot melt. After a few seconds I twist with a pair of pliers. If the head doesn't come off then it's back into the heat until it does. It's really pretty easy and the arrow is not a blackened, charred, unusable mess afterwards.

Guy

WESTBROOK · « **Reply #9 on:** August 31, 2013, 10:15:00 AM »

Whats glue got to do with getting a BH on straight?

I do know if you get too much hot melt in the ferrul every time you try to tweak the head it will try to slide off, It don't take a gob of glue to keep a point on.

Eric

Terry Lightle · « **Reply #10 on:** August 31, 2013, 10:50:00 AM »

What Eric asked

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #11 on:** August 31, 2013, 11:06:00 AM »

The reason for trouble getting your broadheads on straight is usually one of two things.

1. You've put glue on the taper and just pushed the head on... you need to spin the broadhead on the taper to spread the glue evenly. Make sure the ferrule is good and hot.

2. The taper on the shaft is not true.

skunkhound · « **Reply #12 on:** August 31, 2013, 12:42:00 PM »

I was not aware epoxy could be undone with heat. Good to know.

Knawbone · « **Reply #13 on:** August 31, 2013, 12:49:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
The reason for trouble getting your broadheads on straight is usually one of two things.

1. You've put glue on the taper and just pushed the head on... you need to spin the broadhead on the taper to spread the glue evenly. Make sure the ferrule is good and hot.

2. The taper on the shaft is not true.

What do you use for your taper tool Charlie, I think a lot of guys just use a pencil sharpener type tool and can be tough to get a good taper sometimes. Precision tools can be a little more costly for some. Any tips or suggestions for the new guys? Sorry, don't mean to steal the thread.

JimB · « **Reply #14 on:** August 31, 2013, 12:55:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by skunkhound:
I was not aware epoxy could be undone with heat. Good to know.

It can but it definitely takes more heat than hot melts.

Grey Taylor · « **Reply #15 on:** August 31, 2013, 02:41:00 PM »

It does take more heat; a match won't do it but an alcohol burner works just fine.

Guy

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #16 on:** August 31, 2013, 06:14:00 PM »

Knawbone,

I use a Woodchuck taper tool. It's the best in my opinion. Grinding jigs on a disc sander of any kind will do just as well.

Pencil sharpener type cutters can work ok if the angle is set right and the blades are nice and sharp. They are usually not suitable for harder woods than cedar, though.

Often you can have the taper ground by the person you get your shafts from.

Knawbone · « **Reply #17 on:** August 31, 2013, 06:30:00 PM »

Thanks Charlie, I use a grinder set up I made, but thought you could add some info for the new guys in the sport. Your right, you really need a good tapering set up for precision tapers. Thanks for your response.

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #18 on:** August 31, 2013, 11:01:00 PM »

longstiks · « **Reply #19 on:** September 01, 2013, 05:11:00 AM »

With any type of grinder taperer the arrow has to be very straight to get a true taper.
Denny


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Author Topic: Glueing broadheads on to woodies (Read 556 times)

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