Wood arrow help

[Iowabowhunter]

I was given a couple of wood shafts by Mr. Tim Roberts, and they fly fantastically through my bow. I am going to sell my carbons as I can't get them to fly well, so will have some funds left over from them. Mr. Baker said that he would teach me to make up my own arrows, so I just need to purchase some. The arrows I shoot now are footed and would like to stick with that. My question is, what do all the different types of shafts mean??? as far as tapered, barreled and whatnot? Thanks for the help

[Iowabowhunter]

Also wondering where to buy footed shafts?

[SAVIOUR68]

Jacob I believe that several sponsors on TG can help with a footed shaft but there are rather expensive to make 95-115.00 per dozen for bareshafts. Surewood arrows/shaft are made with D. fur and are the best wood shaft I have had a chance to shoot,there straight and built like a tank and there hunter tapered shafts are 42.00 dozn. IMO with the Surewoods there is no need to foot it due to the harder shaft.
Rear Tapered shafts have a rear taper from any were from 8-12in in the rear that taper say a 11/32 shaft to 5/16 and so on. Helps with more FOC.
Barrel tapered shafts have a reducing taper on the frt and rear of the shaft 23/64 shaft with 8in rear taper to 5/16 and 5in taper to 11/32.
Snag on TG can make you some Barreled hunter shafts with the Surewood shafts because looking at your draw and weight will require a stiff shaft.
WOOD IS GOOD WHEN YOU GET THE CORRECT SHAFT/SPINE.

[Gator1]

Couldn't agree more call David at wilderness custom arrows

[Iowabowhunter]

wow yep that's rather steep. so I should look for tapered shafts to help with FOC?

[SAVIOUR68]

Yes taper shafts will help with FOC and Surewood shafts are incredible quality and durability . Shoot David a PM @ Wilderness custom arrows, you can also talk to Steve or Bob at Surewoods for your needed concerns. Let me assure you that you will be perfectly satisfied with there shafts but let either know your exact bow set up to get you in/near the correct spine. Theres lots of wood arrow builds in the HOW TO FORUM and are not hard at all to build once you under stand what your doing. .

[DeerBacon]

I agree with Saviour68 on the Surewood shafts. I only foot my shafts for eye appeal. My plain Surewoods have out lasted my footed cedars. There is a build-along for a four point arrow footing jig on here that works great.

[DeerBacon]

I agree with Saviour68 on the Surewood shafts. I only foot my shafts for eye appeal. My plain Surewoods have out lasted my footed cedars. There is a build-along for a four point arrow footing jig on here that works great.

[Terry Lightle]

Call SNAG,which is David at Wilderness Custom Arrows

[Iowabowhunter]

My draw length hovers between 28 and 29, but the listed draw weight is 54@28, I assume just get some test shafts n go that route?

[SAVIOUR68]

Caleb did the gentleman that gave you the woodies tell you there spine ?
Depends on your point/ broadhead weight you should need around mid 70's spine and would be a good starting point with a 30in shaft 125gr point.
I would also suggest to bareshaft prior to fletching to get the correct spine.

[Iowabowhunter]

I didn't think to ask but did send him a pm asking. I would like to shoot Abowyer 175 grain heads if possible, Tim also had some of those and they look wicked!I think they were Abowyer brown bear heads. Now that I can hunt elk, albeit next year!!!!!, I think 2 blade heads would be the ticket for complete penetration. I could use them for deer and antelope as well as long as I can get them to fly well. I do have 5 or 6 VPA 3 blade 175 screw on heads that I will trade if anybody is interested?

[SAVIOUR68]

Caleb I would get a test arrow kit of 75-80/80-85 spine with that much point weight. And try to get your draw to a more stable/consistent length meaning in your prior post you stated 28-29in draw, remember that a extra inch of draw and an added 3# of draw weight will affect a wood arrow more that carbon and would make a well tuned arrow show weak all of sudden. Bareshaft your shafts FIRST for proper spine tolerance.

[macbow]

I guess I'm just old and out of touch with what is going on with wood arrow,spines.
I've,shot wood,arrows,off,and on since,1963.

I've never,shot a,spine weight more than 10 or maybe 15 pounds over my draw,weight.

What has changed?  Is it the bows,are,cut way past center?
Extreme point weight?
With a point or broadhead from 125 to 140 grains I still shoot 55 to 60 spine from my 50 pound bows. 27 inch draw.

[gringol]

Originally posted by macbow:
I guess I'm just old and out of touch with what is going on with wood arrow,spines.
I've,shot wood,arrows,off,and on since,1963.

I've never,shot a,spine weight more than 10 or maybe 15 pounds over my draw,weight.

What has changed?  Is it the bows,are,cut way past center?
Extreme point weight?
With a point or broadhead from 125 to 140 grains I still shoot 55 to 60 spine from my 50 pound bows. 27 inch draw.

Too many people insist on bareshafting.  Every time I've done it I've ended up around 30# over the stated dw of the bow.  People love it, but IMO it's mostly a waste of time.  Generally about 20# over the stated dw is enough (29.5" draw).

[Iowabowhunter]

I am much more comfortable @ 28 and that is a repeatable dl for me. I can't consciously remember where my anchor is, I will have to video tape myself to get that straightened out. I think I need to trim my tab a little bit (split finger release) because the leather doesn't allow me to get a consistent anchor like my glove did, but I also get a cleaner release with the tab. This trad archery stuff can be a little difficult, but it is also the most fun I've had shooting bows, and I really liked my compound so that is saying something!

[Iowabowhunter]

I was purposely trying to extend my dl with the carbons because they were too stiff to start off with, so if I stretched a bit they tended to fly a little better, I am much more comfortable @ 28".

[macbow]

Iowa, I'd certainly get with those guys that set you up with those arrows. Lot of knowledge there.

Gringol, now that makes sense to me. I never could get my woods to bare shaft.

[SAVIOUR68]

IMO GRINGOL may be you just are not familiar with the proper tuning of a bareshaft or the patience to get there . I have never ever had a bareshaft show 30# over draw weight even with a 200gr field point on a woodie on a longbow. Most of my tuning on longbows  shows 15-20# over draw weight with a shelf cut to center. Recurves that are cut past center require a stiffer shaft from my testing and add a +5# to spine. Bow center cut and draw length and point weight has a lot to do with it.

[gringol]

Scott, I am glad bareshafting works for you. It hasn't worked for me, and based on a lot of posts on this site, a lot of people struggle with it.  And yes, patience is what I'm lacking, which is why I hunt trad.  Really, bro?  Keep your digs to yourself, you don't know me from adam.  

I arrive at about the same place you do, but I can't get there by bareshafting.  And that is exactly the point.  A lot of ways to skin a cat.