HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!

[slayer1]

Thanks guys. I will try the arm bend.

[soap creek]

Hey Pavan, in response to your comment earlier "I wonder how many gangers our buying new bows and not telling any one" well I picked up a HH Redman a few weeks ago. Its 68" 50@ 29". Its a little light at my draw, but I have been really enjoying it. Its really smooth drawing. I'm sure the light poundage has some to do with it. The grip fits me just right, it a straight grip about 1 7/8". Bought it off another tradganger. Been a while since I've had a Hill style. Kind of refreshing , looking forward to shooting it more this summer at some shoots. Maybe we'll cross paths sometime?

Greg, the thing about a bow that is bit lighter, it can change your drawing speed, it can also cause a smoother more controlled draw.  A strong shot with a bow that is a bit light is always deadlier than a weak shot from a bow that is too heavy.  I missed a 180 plus buck with super heavy bow, I got the broad head back to my finger, but failed to adjust my shot to the change in the shot as I drew.  I was thinking to much about how cold and stiff I was and I was worried about not getting a full draw.  A 50 bow with well placed shot would have been a better choice that day.  If you ever find a deer down there that a 50 pound bow won't kill, run.  I may go to the hills a few days for the turkey season. Your corner of the state has great hunting land compared to the crowded parcels we have up here.

[soap creek]

I have confidence in the poundage for deer, I'm just use to a little heavier bows. With that said most of my bows are not that much heavier, being in the 50-55 range. The Redman I have is more like 45 at my draw. Its a pleasure to shoot, its been hard for me to put it down since I got it. Having fun that's what its all about. Pavan maybe I'll see you at the ITBS shoot later this spring.

[lbshooter]

Originally posted by slayer1:
Anybody have problem with string slap on a HH?

I don't consider it a problem and havev always gotten a light hit on the wrist. I also prefer a low brace heigh that is exactly on my fistmele.with my Hill bows. I use an arm guard.

[Brianlocal3]

I decided to alter the grip on my JD Berry Vixen the other day. I ordered it a couple years ago and had James make it in more the racetrack oval shape and it was a fuller grip. James has changed his grips to a very narrow 7/8-1" wide flat sided grip like what I received on my north star and I love it.

So I took it to the grinder and it is now just at 1" wide, and I added a 3/16" dish to it. The belly of the grip is tapered to a tight wedge and this alteration has just revived the Vixen back to full life!!!!!!
 

 

 

[Brianlocal3]

This is the grip prior to the alteration

 

[Brianlocal3]

[Paul_R]

Hey Brian I'm assuming you had to re-seal the area that you worked on that Vixen. What did you use and how did you blend it with the original finish?

[two4hooking]

Originally posted by Brianlocal3:
So how do you fellow ASL shooters taper your arrows?
The new TBH mag has a good article on the old school way of Doing it.

I do.  .


This is how I do it…..
 

I built my simple jigs out of a scrap piece of 2x4 lumber and a couple scrap pieces of angle iron.  Use some wing nuts and bolts and glue on a couple strips of 1 inch sanding belts to the inside surfaces.  I drilled a hole for a “stop” about 12 inches back on each.

I use my 5/16th inch drill bit to size the stop end and use the shaft itself to set the entrance gaps.

The process is simple.  Chuck the shaft into your drill and spin it through the gap in the angle iron.  I made a jig for rough sanding with course paper, and one for finish sanding with fine/medium paper.
 
 

 
If you order your shafts 1 inch longer you can cut off the compressed part that was chucked in the drill…..but you end up tapering them anyway which usually takes care of the damaged area.

I went through 18 shafts in my 1 hour lunch break.

Anyway, it is another method and I feel spinning the shaft helps to get a good even taper and avoid oblong or misshapen areas.

[Brianlocal3]

Thanks for the pics Greg. It's tips like this that really help us all . I'll have to work on one this weekend.

Paul,
Yes I had to refinish it. I have used Formbys tung oil before and it blends really well , you just need to feather it in well z

On this one I sanded down the entire bow and refinished it in high gloss lacquer as I really enjoy a high gloss bow

[mike g]

Wow....
    What's up guys, I have never had to look up this thread on the second page before....

[centaur]

I'm thinking about ordering another Hill, so I called Craig today. I was thinking of getting a reverse handle, and he pretty much talked me out of it. He said that performance wise, all other things being equal, a reverse handle won't have the cast of a standard handle. I asked for his personal preference, and he told me that his best performer is the Redman, and that is what he shoots for his personal bow. Since he knows a thing or two about his bows, my next bow may very well be a Redman.

[NBK]

Originally posted by centaur:
I'm thinking about ordering another Hill, so I called Craig today. I was thinking of getting a reverse handle, and he pretty much talked me out of it. He said that performance wise, all other things being equal, a reverse handle won't have the cast of a standard handle. I asked for his personal preference, and he told me that his best performer is the Redman, and that is what he shoots for his personal bow. Since he knows a thing or two about his bows, my next bow may very well be a Redman.

Does that mean I can buy your cheetah?!

[centaur]

Originally posted by NBK:
[

Does that mean I can buy your cheetah?! [/QB][/QUOTE]
No, but I do have a Shrew Hill that may go on the auction block.

There must be something different from what James Berry does with the reverse option versus HHA.  I seem to remember that he said he could coax about the same and possibly better performance out of the reverse. From what I have seen, he was right. I would agree that when yew is done right, it is very good.  Grains per pound, I think my yew/bamboo is a bit quicker than my yew.  However, the y/b has more slope to the core than the yew.

[soap creek]

What's happened? I bought a HH Redman off another Tradgang member, just to have a Hill style bow around to shoot when the mood hits me, and now I can't put it down. It's the bow I grab every time I want to shoot. What's more I'm shooting it as good or better than any bow I've ever owned. I thought Hill style bows were supposed to be harder to shoot? I'm lovin it.

[katman]

You have been bitten, no known cure, enjoy the disease.

I went out today and flight shot my two 51 pound Robertsons, my 54# yew and Morningstar 53#, it is remarkable to me how close they all were to each other for shot length with the same arrows.  The lefty Robertson and yew were right about the same, with the Morningstar and the righty Robertson, maybe taking a slight edge by a couple of yards on average.

[Brianlocal3]

I'm agree with pavan on this one.
First off, I'm sure Craig knows his products better than anyone so if he says his reverse handles lack performance I'm sure they do, he is the craftsman.

I don't think this applies to all reverse handles as my JD Berry Northstar and Morningstar shoot right with my standard risered American Semi- longbows. And my Morningstar outperforms every standard riser ASL I have owned in similar specs. James has tweaked his design to achieve optimal performance, shoot ability and feel.

With that said I have not owned a HHA reverse.