My guess is that lam wedges beef up and tilt the leverage in the direction of the strain that the center lams have at draw. That tension is bred out to the very fine feathered riser wraps, as you call them, which gives diminishing support to the mid limb, which may decrease overall hysteresis. They feather so fine on my Morningstar that I can almost see James using a spatula to handle them.
I expected my Mornongstar to be a bit slower because of the reverse riser. It most definitely is more forgiving and accurate, but it shoots a hard arrow. I draw mine to about 54 pounds at 26.25", my wood arrows, 48 to 50 pound spine, cut to 27" bop, had to be shortened and I had to drop my head weight. For my aluminums, 1918s, I expected to need to go to 200 grain screw in up front at 27" bop. I found that was also too much and had to reduce that by 40 grains. It shoots the same arrows the same distance as my 52@26" 62" Robertson, which shoots the same arrows te same distance as my 60@28" drawn to 26" Super Kodiak with a fast flight. In other words fast enough and smooth enough.
For left hand shooting on the ground the only bow for me is the Mornigstar, right hand on the ground my super from the blank Halfbreed, if I ever get caught in a tree stand I can go to my 62" Robertsons twins. If I know that I will be in a particular situation where going back to right hand shooting will be a better choice I will do so, otherwise the only bow going out 95% of the time will be the Morngstar. Thanks to James I am done buying bows.
For those who want to make like Howard Hill with a short riser longbow like the beautifull examples above, now is the time. The list that James has is not getting shorter.