HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!

Well Done!

[Broken Quiver]

Nice Job!

[Shinken]

Most-excellent shooting Crispin!

             

Enjoy the feast!

Shoot straight, Shinken

 

[Green]

Congrats Crispin!

[Ray Lyon]

Ok, so the Northstar is shooting great and as noted I was in the market for some more Microflite #8's since they were shooting so well from the bow.  Well I found a dozen in near mint condition on the big auction site and they were just delivered today.  Feathers are in perfect condition and they look like maybe one or two were shot a couple of times and that's it.  I love wood arrows, however I'm also a sucker for Vintage Microflites (these have the inserts with the tapered adapter instead of screw in convertapoint system). My hunch is they're from the mid sixties. I'll be doing some broadhead testing this weekend.  I've got 125, 130, 145, 155 and 160 as my choices, so based on field point flight I'm going to have no trouble getting something that will fly perfectly.

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[CHENRYIV]

First, I've got to say that I don't want to offend anyone on the HH site, but I had to send by Double Bull blind back to Primos for a repair on Monday, which left me to have to hunt out of my Primos Club Blind that doesn't accommodate an ASL very well.  After work to yesterday, I decided that I go out and sit until dusk to see what might happen. Will this is what I found. Turkey #2 for the season.  I saving #3 for the "MorningStar".

BW PSR
Surewood Shaft w/Grizzly Instinct

[centaur]

Crispin, don't think that you have to use a blind to get a turkey. Snuck up on these a couple of days ago; they weren't in season yet, so they will have to wait for the wrath of the Morningstar.


Last fall; one of two birds I got via spot and stalk. Notice, a Morningstar was their downfall.

[Gordon Jabben]

Nice Chenry!    

[Bluegoose]

Mighty good work men.

Crispin, that is a great Gibran quote!

[CHENRYIV]

Thanks guys!! Centaur, I'll have to give it a try. I was reading your article in TradArchers' World. Good stuff.    

[Green]

Crispin......Pat's got ya, there.  Game on!  Lol.

[Charlie Lamb]

Pat... you are welcome to come back here and stalk these eastern birds all you want. You might find a little difference.

Of course there's always the possibility that you wouldn't.

[centaur]

Charlie, Merriams may not be the brain surgeons of the turkey world, but they are all I have. I would love to take on some Easterns some time. The biggest problem for me with Easterns is that they live in the east. I do know that once I show myself for a shot, these birds leave the country in a big hurry. With spot and stalk, either shoot quick or watch them exit.

[Charlie Lamb]

I hear ya bud. Ain't none of them gonna just hang around and let you kill em. When it's time a guy needs to have his ducks in a row.

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by Blaino:
 

Originally posted by Cavscout9753:
Pavan, where does he anchor? Still corner of the lip? Thats crazy he's so big and only draws under 28". I don't think I have the strength to bow my arm that much, haha. Im pretty new to ASLs so I probably still use (too much?) back tension. I don't lock my arm out but I do open my body up when I settle into the anchor. Perhaps like you said after time my form will settle into something a little different. I admit I don't attempt to emulate anyone(s) form. I just try to do repeatable and fluid.

Juat a little info on shooting with a "Hill Style" if that is what you want to do. So, just take it for what it's worth....

I'm 6'4" with a 78" wing span and draw dead on 28" shooting hill style. Howard was a tall guy and I think he had a 78" wing spans also with a 27" or 28" draw.  I draw 31" when I shoot a recurve with what Hill would call "target style"....

Nate Steele explained it best for me.  The style/form is just like wing shooting with a shotgun. You lean into the shot, swing up, shoot and follow through in one motion.

I won't tell you this is the only way they can be shot because everyone has there own style. But form is form and back tension is still back tension ect... [/b]

That is a surprising to me also. I'm 6'2" have a 77.5" reach and draw to 30" using a Hill style swinging draw. I find tucking my pinky finger and covering it with my thumb gives me a solid two point anchor. Corner of mouth and thumb knuckle at base of jawbone just under my ear. Yes I maintain a slightly bent elbow.

[Cavscout9753]

Well, was looking for another longbow. A great guy gave me a wonderful deal on a HH Wesley Special, 68" 60# @ 28", brown glass back and belly. Pretty excited. Had a commander years ago bring a wesley special in to work once to show off and I've coveted one for a while.

S.C. Hunter, I have seen lots of differing body positions with different shooters. The amount one leans into the shot or opens up the shoulders dramatically affects the draw length. Everyone has their own comfort zones, My son is 6'2" and draws right about at 28" with any bow that has some shape in the grip, he use to draw a bit less with straight grips. I use to draw over 28" with recurves and 27" with longbows, but I have found that I am more accurate with a shorter draw regardless of the weight of the bow, 26&1/4" left hand with a straight Hill grip and 26&1/2" right hand with a straight Hill grip. I am also better at quick bunny and wing shots with a shorter draw.

[Cavscout9753]

Ok Hill gang, time for your experienced opinions. So the Wesley Special is 60# @ 27". My goal is to be able to use the same arrows as my Vixen thats 50# @ 27". Those are my 28" POC (50# - 55#) with 160 out front. Can I build out the HHA's strike plate a little and keep the 160's or will I likely end up dropping down to 125's? After fighting to stiff of arrows for years I'm less worried about a weaker arrow thats shot from a hill bow and one thats wood. I've heard so many varietys of opinions on wood arrows with Hill bows, some say weak arrows, some say at weight, some stiff. Just wondering what I can expect to get away with. Thanks.

Edit: i rechecked my draw only to find I'm at 26" as my most consistent draw. I guess the hill style grew on me

[Cavscout9753]

I've also got some 55-60's that I can run 125's or 160's on, which the calc says should be near perfect. Thinking on it that will probably be easier and I'll just use two different arrows for both bows.

I shoot 1918s with either 175 or 200 grain screw on points or tapered wapiti cedars with 160 54 to 57 spine, or tapered surewoods that are 55 to 60 with 160s, all 27" bop, out of my 53 @ 26 Morningstar and my lean and mean 59 @ 26 yew/bamboo. They appear to fly equally good out of both bows. I draw a bit over 26" left handed and about 26.5" right handed with the heavier and faster bow.  I do go to glue in inserts and glue on 160 broadheads to get the 25 grain reduction to up the spine on the 1918s for the faster bow.
I should add that my bows are a bit faster than the Wesley that my friend has and the sight windows are a little bit deeper. You could get by with 50 55 spines cut them to 27" bop and adjust the spine by adjusting the point weight.
You could also do what I do, separate your arrows from high end of the spine out of the set to low end of the spine.