Mike, here's some GENERAL guidelines that work for me. My hunch is that you're arrows are overspined at 65#:
My Howard Hill Tembo is 57# @ 28 inch and has a Dacron string. I draw 28". That bow likes arrows around 55# @ 29" BOP and 125-140 grain point. I can also use a 61-63# Jalon arrow(he spines his within 2# of each other) with a 190 grain point. My Steve Turay Northern Mist 55#@28 inches with fast flight string likes the same 61-63 pounds with 190 grain point. When I ordered the bow, Steve said his string follow likes a couple pounds lighter spine than backset bows. The shafting I just got from Surewood for the Schultz Natural (string follow/no glass Hill style) all were set up with 52-53# spine on my spine tester, 29" BOP and 160 grain point weight. Bow is rated for 55#@28 inch and I'm probably drawing that 27-27.5 (I think I'm using a little more relaxed draw with that bow, but it's shooting perfect for me). Anyway, I expected this bow to need arrows under rated draw in spine compared to a glass bow and I was correct. I typically find 5-7 grains of point weight above 125 grain standard needs 1# more in spine. So 190 grain point figures out at 190-125=65 grains divided by 6= 10#s extra spine (rough rule) and that one inch of draw length-you draw 29"-is about 5# per inch. All that said, if you're shooting close to 125 grain point with your wood arrows, I'd expect you'd see 52# bow plus 5# or a 57-58# arrow coming in with good flight for you.
Now your form, centershot cut of bow, diameter of arrow, thickness of arrow plate, ect can all play in to the above.
All of that said, another double check and I did this with my arrows for the Schultz, is to put in your carbon arrows into Stu's spine calculator that you know work for you. You'll probably find that you need to put a positive or negative personal form factor into the box on the lower right to make the calculator match (if you've used it you'll know what I'm talking about). Now, put in the specs for wood arrows and keep the personal form factor number the same. You should then come up with a wood arrow spine that works with the above rough rule of thumb answer. If it does, I'd start there with your search.
Ultimately a wood arrow test kit is the best way to go. With carbon arrows you can invest in different weight inserts (whether in the shaft or with the point adapter if using glue on heads) to make them work. With wood arrows, you've got to buy separate points in the right weight to make them work (although you could invest in Woody Weights too that do the same thing, but they're not as pretty and will make your arrows a little longer). This can get pricier with broadheads (I have 130, 155 and 190 grain Grizzly's on hand, so I can use whatever is needed to fine tune wood arrow and suits my fancy to get to a preferred arrow weight).
The above is not meant to be confusing, it's just to let you know that you can fine tune wood arrows if you consider all the options to do so and have them available if you have the financial resources to do so.
Topic: HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two! (Read 473603 times)
