How sharp?

[BassBow]

I am trying my best to sharpen some woodsmans. I am going file, hone, diamond to strop. I have been following the trad gang tutorial and 3 rivers. I get them sharp but not hair off the arm sharp. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Have a wonderful weekend!

[joe ashton]

the last steps are done very very lightly... very light.
good luck.

[Adam S. Daugherty]

Fourth step is ceramic rod then the hairs will pop off, after the ceramic rod you can omit the strop step.

[awbowman]

LIGHT pressure at the end.

[BassBow]

Thanks!!!!! I'll give it a try!

[Bladepeek]

The steel in these broadheads - nearly all of them - is quite soft. It's not like sharpening a hard knife edge. Any pressure at all, once you raise a burr, will just break the burr off and you start over again, raising a new burr. You can wind up removing a LOT of steel and never get to shaving sharp. Once you get to a burr you can feel, it's almost just the weight of the broadhead to sharpen from there.

[LB_hntr]

all great advise! as mentioned, less pressure is good. Also keep in mind that the strop should only be used after the head is already sharp enough. it give it that extra punch and sharpness that makes them scary sharp. so make sure you have them pretty sharp before the strop rather than relying on the strop.
  also as mentioned its all about the bur. raise a bur, then raise it on the other side, then lightly even out both sides to remove the bur compeletly. should be good and sharp. if not repeat with the light strokes on both sides to get it evened out. once you have it whre it feels good and sharp its ready for the strop.

[Nomadstalker]

I had trouble with my 3 bladed heads also until I did two things:  
1-started to use a 12" file and work both blades at once by drawing the head towards me.  
2-after the file, drawing the head over a fine diamond hone then stropping on leather covered in polishing compound.  The brand I use is Porter Cable #5 (green) I got it from Lowes and is in a  rectangular plastic case.

I couldn't get the Woodsman to pop hair until stropped on leather with the compound.  I hope that helps you.

[Zradix]

email sent

[BassBow]

Thanks zradix

[Huntingnut]

Originally posted by joe ashton:
the last steps are done very very lightly... very light.
good luck.

This. They should be scary sharp.

[smokin joe]

Remember this phrase, "Go light to get sharp."

[Sharpster]

Check your email...


Ron

[WhiteBeard121]

I admit that I'm sharpening challenged, so with that in mind I bought one of the best sharpeners out there. My blades are light years ahead of what they used to be, but I'm still trying to get to "scarey sharp". I'll try to incorporate the advise listed here.

thanks,

[Bill Carlsen]

your first goal is to get a burr on the edge on your rough sharpening in your first pass with a file or abrasive stone. On my Razorcaps, if I have a badly dulled one I simply take it downstairs to my belt sander and very lightly hold two edges at a time on the belt for a count of 3. Then I do the same to the other blades. Usually all I need is one pass like this and I have what some would call a "serrated" file edge. I know guys that would stop right there and go hunting with them. However, I really, really think razor sharp is best. Then I go to work on my Jewel stik and finish up with a ceramic rod. As others have stated, as you progress to finer and finer grits use very light pressure. By the last pass I am barely using just the broadhead weight while I am pulling the blades across the ceramic rod.

[wandering monk]

Ive been file sharpening zwickeys for a long time...I use a leather strap to clear away any bur...I woudnt shave with the, but have all the confdence in the world in them.

I have never had any problems with penetration or blood trails...

sharp is for sure a hallmark of a traditional bowhunter...however I think equal time should be given to arrow flight...and this is even more an issue with trad gear, due to arrow speeds. The sharpest high dollar head in the world if its on an arrow that isnt hitting perfectly is potentiall "slapping" the target more than diving straight in.

too many folks take it for granted because the company they bought their heads from say they "fly perfect" dont practice with heads on to see what actually happens.

For me I remember shooting BD Deltas on my bows for years, pin point accuracy and always did the job...but when I started shooting a bow that increased speed a bit (over 185 fps) because I bumped up the poundage to 75  they started to fly like a breaking ball...

so whats perfect on that nice long bow, might be lacking on that fast shooting recurve...

here is the three legged chair for us...accuracy combined with perfect as possible arrow flight with razor sharp heads is the real combo...and really all that matters as far as hunting...take one aspect out and its problems...big time...

[longbow fanatic 1]

Recently I bought a Gatgo sharpening kit along with the ceramic finishing stone. I've never been able to sharpen broad heads or knives so that they could shave hair off your arm. With this kit, I can. I would highly recommend this system if you are having trouble with resharpening.

[Lamey]

Don't worry about shaving.... I know that runs counter to common thought.  See if the edge will "bite" into your thumbnail with light pressure while at a slight angle.  If it "bites" instead of "slides" its sharp.  

We are talking "light" pressure...

[elksticker]

It doesn't make sense to me to leave a burr.  Wouldn't it come off when it passed through the skin or if it touched bone?

[JEFF B]

all i use for any of my sharp things is a file and leather strop and steel and man you can cut ya self just looking at em