Bowyers--tillering out 3-under noise?

[olddogrib]

There was an interesting thread recently about the additional noise from a 3-under release correlating with the amount of load on the ring finger of the drawing hand. After playing around some with the tape trick on the last knuckle and moving that finger back on the string to the pad, I seem to be able to tell a modest reduction, although it still seems awkward.  Wish I could shoot 2-under, but my fingers can't stand more than a few shots. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the theory is that bowyers adjust the tiller to keep the limbs synchronized with respect to loading at full draw.  When this doesn't happen, the limbs are staggered in their discharge of energy which contributes to the additional noise (and some hand shock I would think). The standard seems to be 1/8th" to 3/8th" positive (top limb)for split and dead even for 3-under. Given that, their still seems to be a universal consensus that 3-under is noisier, couldn't this at least in theory be remedied by going to negative tiller (greater distance on the bottom limb), or am I missing something?

[flinthead]

For 3 under the accepted norm is even tiller. On a ILF bow that is what Landcaster recommends. Usually the sound can be cut down by playing with the brace height. Roy

[George Vernon]

The goal of tillering is to have the limbs return to brace height at the same time.  If they do not, then you will likely see up and down nock movement and hear/feel some noise created by vibration.

If you have played around with the height of the nocking point and are still not happy with the 'noise', you might want to try an elevated rest like a Bear feather rest, or weather rest, or the brush type rest.  All of these will raise the arrow about 3/8" and get your string hand back to string position very close to split finger shooting off the shelf.  Some bows with very short sight windows may not take an elevated rest.  They are cheap and worth a try versus changing your shooting style.

[Bob Morrison]

Try a little negative tiller, it works for me and might for you. It won't cost anything to try, you will need to move your nock points.

Bob

[olddogrib]

Bob,
That's what I was wondering and just didn't ask it right, i.e. more distance from the fades to the string on the bottom limb vs. the top? I don't shoot ILF, so would moving the nock point alone help? I'm usually around 5/8ths" above square and bare shafts fly well with no "porpoising".  If I go higher will it help and how high would I need?

[wingnut]

With ILF bows I shoot 1/8" negative for my three under release.  Some shoot even and get good results.  It depends on the limbs and your release.

It's hard with a boltdown or one piece bow unless you are building it yourself.  We tiller even for customers that shoot 3 under but that's a bit like not having an adjustable seat in your truck.  One setting doesn't work for everybody.

Mike

[Gil Verwey]

On my ILF bows (Mike's Dryad limbs) I have 1/8 positive tiller. I didn't change it because it is very quiet.

I was the one on that thread that mentioned the pressure on the ring finger. JoeBuck gave me the tip on my ring finger. I still put pressure on the string with my ring finger just not as much as my middle and index finger. I keep my pinky out and touch the string with it. If I don't do that my ring finger doesn't open all the way.

I am shooting a 65# '59 Bear Kodiak 60" and two ILF bows with Mikes limbs. They are dead silent.

In the past I gave up everytime I tried 3 under because my bows all sounded like they were being dry fired. Not anymore, they are drop dead quiet.

The other thing I did was heterodyne my bows. I divided the the string length in 4 and 3. I put the bottom silencer 1/3 up the string and the top one down 1/4 on the string. I take a 3" piece of cat whiskers, fold it in half and put it through the string. I serve it in and cut the fold after it is served.

These bows 3 under are now extremely quiet.  

Gil