Three finger under friendly recurve

[legends1]

You can adjust nock to shoot fine for (most arrows)three under if it was not designed that way. Problem in recurves is they tend to be alittle more noisy than they would tiller properly. Not a problem with longbows because the string doesn't contact the limb.

[old_goat2]

Originally posted by Yohon:
ILF  bows have the ability to adjust to the shooter rather than the other way around      

ILF or find a bow tillered for three under.

[Paul_R]

One other thing I'll mention is that a high brace height works best when shooting 3 under. Maybe it's just me or just coincidence but all my bows need to be toward the top of their brace height range.

One (the Kaliska) is well over the recommended range. At the recommended 6 1/2" - 6 3/4" it sounded and felt like it was being dry fired and arrows stuck in every direction but straight. Holy God it was awful! At 7 1/4" it's a whole different bow, quiet, smooth, and tuned.

[deertag]

Guys,
I find this thread very informative.  I am new to the trad bow only been shooting 2 years.  I shoot 3 under, and just recently fought with tuning bare shafts.  Now I'm no pro at shooting, but I like challenges, so I try to stay at things till I get them just right, but with the bow I have seems like I hit a road block in tuning.  The tail always stays a hair up bare shaft(about 1 inch at best).  I moved the nock point from 1.25" to just under even to see how to get that tail down and results would get worse as soon as I left the 1/4 to 1/2 area. I also, increased the brace height with some advice from here, and it dropped the tail high from 4'' to the 1'' high spot.  

Now, with fletching they are barely noticable tail high. And strange, from elevated shooting they drive right in straight.  I thought it may be because I have what I consider a bottom of the line entry level bow(martin x150) new it only runs about $220.  I have a friend with a black widow he is going to let me shoot once we can get together.  I'm guessing another bow may more forgiving for my inconsistent form, but even with the martin i am finally getting arrows to group up 2-3 inches at 10 yards, which makes me feel better.
thanks, david

[McDave]

David,

An inch nock high shouldn't be a problem, provided it is a true nock high and not a false nock high caused by the arrow bouncing off the shelf.  I'm sure the results you were getting at a very low nock height were false nock highs.  Basically, you start at an inch high nock point, like you did, and move down.  When the nock high levels off, you stop, and maybe add 1/16 back to the nock point as a cushion.  As I said in my earlier post, a slight to moderate (true) nock high will not adversely affect your accuracy.  Not everyone can get level bare shaft flight, for various form related reasons.

[overbo]

This is the biggest reason you hear soooo much about poor penetration w/ trad. gear.People buy bows because of looks or numbers they put thru a chrono.

Not only bareshafting will tune your bow and arro but it also tunes your form.If one can't bareshaft w/ consistency. They aren't getting the optimum out of their set-up.