Another tuning frustration thread

[rraming]

Originally posted by haweskg:
Maybe I have mixed everything up......

Part of my confusion might have come from a you tube video from a guy named greyarcher who was demonstrating bare shaft tuning and was clearly showing nock left with a full length shaft and then proceeded to shorten it  until he got nock right.

When I thought that I had everything tuned I put 4 arrows in a 1 inch group at 15 yards.  That was with the full length 500's with 75gr insert and 175gr point.

I guess that I will have to start all over!

haweskg

I have seen a bunch of GreyArchers video's, I did not see the tuning ones. His video's are good entertainment. I laughed when he called a bowyers work alien technology, great stuff (Acadian Bows) the guy has a great personality to watch.
The old sites I had used like bowmaker and Kelly's archery had great info on tuning. I'm not sure if anyone has the tuning stuff out there anymore.

[30coupe]

I quit bare shaft tuning due to the same type of frustration. You also have to shoot with your bow vertical to get accurate info when bare shafting.

I don't shoot with a vertical bow unless I have to to make a shot while hunting. Fletching stiffens spine, so bare shafts are different even with the same tip weight and shaft length. I don't shoot bare shafts while hunting either. I want to know what my arrows will do in as close to hunting set-up as possible.

For that reason, I paper tune. Much less frustration!

[AkDan]

naw its not once you understand what's happening.  Its the first tool to getting a guy close. I agree paper tuning and than group testing as a final step and you'll be drilling things! The more you do (and understand) the easier and more proficient the process becomes.   Its kind of like trying to roof with a ballpeen hammer..it'll work, till you have to pull a nail.  Bareshafting alone only gets you close, but I wouldn't rule it out!

If you hunt in the rain you're about as close to bareshafting as you can get with a bh on the front to boot.   I cant sit at home when I'm on a typical hunt up here.   SO either I park in a tent or I get out and hunt and at times even a constant drizzle can and has mashed my feathers down.   The more tuned you are, the less it will be an issue.

And you don't have to shoot vertical, I don't and haven't.  Though If I really cant figure out whats going on with a 15or so degree cant I'll turn a shot vertical to confirm things.   You're not spending a range day shooting this way.  

I guess I don't understand why people walk away from this tool.  Its a fast way to get to the papertune and or group testing stages, no feathers correcting and giving even more false or less dramatic info.   Simple put easy results.

The nice thing about bareshafting and staying slightly weak before fletching when playing with carbons is if you over shoot it you can add internal weights to compensate for it being slightly stiff.   But I'd bet you don't go too stiff unless you get bareshafts to fly perfectly and than turn around and paint and fletch.  If you're going to paint, I recommend bareshafting with painted shafts!

[onemississipp]

haweskg,
     Changed string or knocking point?

[haweskg]

onemiss,

Nope, same string and nock point.

It seemed that I had things worked out, so I'm going to shoot the full length 500's with 175's for a while and see what happens.

Thanks