snaro point

[jean-vincent]

as i can't find snaro point over here , i'll make some
could somebody tel me the diameter of the wire needed .i'll use piano wire .
and if you got tips on making them ..
merci !!

[macbow]

I haven't seen any for a,while. Think there were two sizes.
Most used was about 3 inches plus in diameter.
I used to make them with a field pint. Drilling holes to run the ends of the wire into. Four loops. Either silver solder or epoxy the ends good.
Work pretty good on winged critters.

[jean-vincent]

merci Macbow

do you know the size of the wire that's ll work best ??
0.5mm sound good to you ?

[Pete McMiller]

Jean-Vincent,

I made some many years ago with piano wire and I believe I used .030" or .76mm  It was plenty big enough so I would think that .5mm would work OK.  The key I found in making them was to not make too big in diameter or there would be too much wind resistance.  Try keeping your overall diameter 3-4 inches max  (7-10cm) and see how they work.

[jean-vincent]

great Pete !
i'll let you know the result ..

[Fattony77]

Sounds like a fun, do-able project! Anybody know if they're legal for waterfowl hunting?

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Fattony77... I do believe that you can use them for waterfowl hunting. Though, you would need a pretty darn close shot to make the impact of the snaro work on a duck or goose. It would need to be a head shot. Depending on what type of waterfowl you are going after it would be best to use a regular cut on contact broadhead. Remember that birds such as geese have a ton of dense down feathers that you must penetrate to make a lethal shot on.

It is my goal this year to attempt at taking a goose with a longbow out of the air. My setup is going to be two blade cut on contact broadheads with very small flu flu feathers. This is just my own opinion on what may work best. Someone who is more experienced may have better information for you.

[Fattony77]

Bowhuntin, thanks for the input. Never thought about it not being enough for the waterfowl.    
Maybe i can try 'em on dove....  

[AkDan]

never shot doves, but I never did like snaro's either.   A buddy confirmed them on grouse this year.   They seemed like a good idea and maybe they are with the right setup.   Out of the gear we're shooting (my buddy and I) they both don't hold up or have the killing power mentioned.   I was going to ask but bowhntin beat me too it.

The one place they shine will be under dogs.

[Slickhead]

Yea
take a blunt
drill four equally space holes around diameter 1/4 inch from tip
Use wire slightley smallerdiameter of holes. Length based on size of head.
as stated bronze,solder ends in.

[jean-vincent]

merci  !

[AkDan]

Merci is what I yell after a day behind my shotgun!   Could never manage a woodcock let alone bowkill a dive.

I do remember a video of a guy bow shooting quail.   Talk about impressive!

[jean-vincent]

LOL !!

[reddogge]

They don't have enough killing power to reliably kill waterfowl however smaller birds up to the size of a chuckar partridge they will kill and break wings. Stick with broadheads on waterfowl and pheasants.

[Mac910]

We tried the snaro points several years ago for hunting pheasants. I didn't like them very much. We videotaped some of the shots and found the snaros were so slow the birds could almost outrun the arrow. They were also very noisy.

We ended up using what was called a game grabber point. They looked like a glue on field point with the trailing edge of the point spread out like turbine blades. They hit hard and stayed in the bird which made recovery of the birds simple.

[jean-vincent]

   

first result .
175g field point

[Fattony77]

Nice!

[guspup]

Nice work, I'm going to try that.

[jean-vincent]

they fly well , but noisy .
good for small bird or very near .
i'll make a few more for next season .

[ChuckC]

Consider ordering some of the Judo's cousins, the Condor, for aerial shooting.  

Also, I am experimenting with (means I haven't hit anything with them yet) modified Snuffers, where the rear portion of the blade is removed, keeping only the front (sharp) and the three rear supports.  I am thinking this should supply a sharp poking instrument for a direct hit, yet also some arms for breaking a wing or neck on a more indirect hit.

ChuckC