snakeskins on limbs

[thumper-tx]

I am looking to get some snakeskins on my limbs but am a bit concerned about durability. For those of you who have limbs with skins on them, does the normal "hunting wear and tear" damage or hurt the skins in any way. I don't want something I have to "baby" when I am hunting.

[JRY309]

You may want to look at Onestringer Limbsations,they are similar to arrow wraps.They come in many different patterns,snakeskins,exotic woods,camo and more.They can give you the snakeskin look,help to give the bow limbs alittle protection.And inexpensive compared to having real skins put on your bow,around $25.00 and easy to put on and easy to peel off.I have real skins on one of my bows,they hold up well.They can be damaged just like your bows finish.Just depends on how hard are you on your bow when hunting?

[red hill]

This is the third year for me to hunt with a skin covered bow. There doesn't seem to be any wear on the skins, but I'm very protective of this bow. I say go for it!

And I think SEMO Hunter will skin a bow for you.

[nineworlds9]

Big Jim can also do a nice skin job for reasonable money if SEMO can't.

[damascusdave]

Bob Morrison is masterful with skins...they will be very durable

DDave

[Nathan Killen]

I've got copperhead skins on mine. If there sealed/finished with a quality topcoat like Thunderbird they are as durable as anything else.

[Brock]

think i answered same post somewhere...maybe another forum.  Easy to do yourself and I have posted detailed instructions I got from TOO SHORT many years ago on the other forum.  Or PM me with your email and will try to find it on my computer...but do a search on other website for sneaky snake or snake skins and you will find it.

[Amberjack]

So, is there a mojo or magic to the addition of snakeskin to your bow?

I get the decorative aspect, but am wondering if there's more to it than that.

AJ

[thumper-tx]

Thanks for the feedback. I posted this on another forum and got a single response.  I was going to get Bob Morrison to skin the limbs but will also check out the two recommendations above. I was going to have the skins put on for no other reason than I really like how they look. It does however, likely add a bit of "camo" breakup to the limb.

[Brock]

nope...no mojo.  I did my first one to cover very light colored limbs as a form of natural camo....then I thought it really looked cool.  Still on that bow and last set was put on 13+ years ago....

I have it on one of my osage selfbows as a layer over the rawhide backing...to hide rawhide and I think it just looks good.

[Brock]

I could not find article I wrote and did not have time to do a search online at other forum from around 1993-1998 when I posted it a few times....under name "shorthair" but here goes.    First you get some sand paper and sand front of glass limbs (away from you)....dont need to take a lot off just roughen them up a good bit so they are dusty and thoroughly scratched everywhere.   Get your snakeskin’s....preferably salt cured not chemical but either will work.  Soak them in water to soften them and ensure they are long enough to do one limb each.  While the snake skins are soaking....get your tools.  An exacta knife with three or four sharp blades from hobby store....two ace bandages.....a can of satin poly spray finish...bottle of Elmer’s wood glue or gorilla glue...go for water resistant....coat hangers

First I prep the bow limbs if already finished...by scuffing them up with scotchbrite or sandpaper.  Dont go crazy but you want a rough surface for glue to bond.  Wipe free of dust with acetone and put aside.

When skins are pliable you will want to coat the limbs of your bow with a thin but even coat of glue.  Let it get tacky and then lay on the first snake skin.  I recommend putting tail end toward limb tips and head end toward riser.  Position so it covers limbs good and so pattern of skin is even and attractive to your eye.  Using a wet rag or your wet finger...spread on skin and then slowly work it down smooth to remove air bubbles and ensure it is flat on limb without excess glue underneath.  Once you are assured it is on firmly to limb...wipe up excess glue that squirted out sides and ends...but not necessary but helps cleanup at end.  At this point wrap the ace bandages as tightly as possible around the limbs in even distribution from one end to the other...I also take clothes pins and place them an inch a part down both sides of limb and up to tip especially around recurve tip....to hold it all in place.  Be sure you have removed all air bubbles even if it requires a pin or knife hole to let air out and even glue....then flatten back out and ensure it is firmly and evenly in place on limbs.  Let them dry overnight.

Next day get limbs and remove the ace bandages being careful not to pull skin if stuck to glue...so be careful...cutting initially where glue stuck to bandages.  Once skins are unwrapped ensure glue is dry all over and even...check for bubbles or thick glue spots that are still soft.

If none found then we are going to next step.  Now get a roll of DUCK TAPE or the green military tape.  Rip off some and make loop inside out....pulling off the scales of the snake skins.  They should stick to tap and pop right off.  Also can get a spoon and run down limb against grain of skin but not too hard or at too sharp an angle and pop them off like scaling fish....but I prefer the tape alone...takes longer but less chance of tearing skin.  When you can run masking or duct tape down entire length of limb and pull it off with no scales then the next step is to hold up to light and check every inch for stubborn scales...they will be dull when rest of skin is shiny.  Removing them all or most of them is paramount for good seal.

Once the scales are off you get your exacta (hobby) knives and cut 1/16 from edge of limbs to remove excess skin.  If you leave them to very edge they will pick up at edges later and break seal...so go in as far as you dare and cut an even border down both sides of limb...I lay limbs on flat surface and hold with clamps or get someone to help adn with sharp blade is not hard....get straight edge if needed to make a line to follow.  Cut where glass ends on tip and towards riser to your taste.

Now get damp wet rag and wipe down limb all over...removing excess glue...skin...scales...etc.  you want it clean and scale free with no signs of waste glue.  I usually let it dry again...and then go over it with tape one more time and double check for scales and ensure I got the borders straight and where I want them.

Once you are satisfied with the glue drying and trimming of skins and removal of scales....next step is to find a place you can hang the limbs.  Cut coat hangers and bend end to either fit in hole at base of limb for takedowns or to hold in nock groove or around handle of one piece.  get in area with no wind and dust.....and after shaking cans really really good....start going over the entire limb area front, back, edges, tips, etc...Anywhere there are skins to get a thin even coverage.  If ou have leather handle and shelf material you might want to cover them with tape or wrap.  Let spray dry to touch....can be sticky...and cover with another coat.

Paul Brunner only did 3-4 coats...I did 8 coats on first one and 6 coats on second bow.  The 8 coats cracked after couple years of use but 4-6 coats is best.  The important thing is to get it completely covered with no gaps at all....as any moisture under the finish you are applying will ruin skins and cause them to bubble and the glue to release and you will have to start over with new skins.  Anyhow...get all the coats on...and give them a good review and I had a little extra on edges of limbs myself.

Let dry for 24 hours in dust free environment.....check next day for completeness....check shine...if too shiny then you can either do a really light mist of finish and let it dry...don’t do full coverage just a "dusting" and this will leave a rough feel with each droplet of finish being independent.  Or you can get a small can of flat finish or a gray or brown paint and "dust" it one quick spray from distance but if you get too much or too close it will color your limbs and not be transparent.....steel wool once completely dry can soften and dull the finish as well to taste...which is better method I think.
Well now you have roughened limbs...glued on skins...trimmed...de-scaled....sprayed.  Once dry then look at the edges of the skins all the way around limbs....to ensure you put enough finish on to seal the gap between skins and bow limbs...if in doubt hit them again to cover areas of concern.

I let it cure for a week now before I string bow or shoot....it will smell a bit so if going to hunt you might want to do it a while in advance.  now your bow is covered.  I have a bow I did for a friend with canebrake skins that is 10 years strong...and my Jeffery Recurve is on its second set of skins in 15 years....only reason I had to do it over is two fold...too many coats first time and they got spider cracks after 5 years...and also the DEET in bug spray ate away at finish on edges where it touched my face when in woods on stand or leaning against tree propping against my bow...and after a dozen rain storms and years of bug spray it finally started lifting up.  Finished season and  dried with hair dryer and touched up with glue and spray...then at end of season I sanded finish down and soaked in hot water....and skins came right off and I put a set of prairie rattler skins on them that are still there and looking as good as day I did them.

Hope that helps...I will try to find my formal write up in mean time and send you but this is how I did my last few skins...been about 8 years since I did any but this is my process and no problems.

keep em sharp,

ron herman

[Bob Baur]

Thanks for that write up Broc! I have considered trying this myself a number of times but now after reading this I may just give it a shot.

[wandering monk]

its all about natural stealth...the skins are more than durable...and the conscious effect for the hunter is to be one with his surroundings...

sometimes folks worry too much about things...if they look cool to you...and you enjoy the natural camo...go for it...

IMHO...in reality things like this are way more for  us  than the actual quarry we are chasing...

I know I love the look on the bows I have put them on over the years...and they are actually quite durable too...

I have used 3M sprays, and also some hide glues...super glue always seems to help the edges that fold up stay down...t

[Short on Cache]

So whats a fair price for having a bow skinned?

[Brock]

whatever you are willing to pay and the guy doing work is willing to charge...very subjective.

if wanting it done by someone that charges to do it on bows they sell already....look at their price list for what they charge for skins to be installed.  Subtract cost of good set of skins and should be close.

[R. W. Mackey]

Viron,  no worries about the durability. I have several sets of limbs with skins, have never had a problem with any of them.
Have had some on for more than 5 years.
 
  Roy

[Brock]

Like I said the ones on my recurve have been on for about 13+ years...cant remember for sure when I replaced the first set.

[mrjeffro]

Do  skins affect the performance of the bow?

[nineworlds9]

After taking delivery of my new Centaur, the man for skins IMO is Jim Neaves.  He does em so well they appear painted on.  They are coated in multiple layers of epoxy and sanded smooth so the skins are fully encased in a layer of protection from damage or UV.  They are amazing.  To my knowledge Jim is willing to do them on other bows for a fee.

[tradarcher816]

This is my MA II blackwidow the top limbs a bit faded but otherwise they hold up good. I don't know the exact age as I bought it used but they don't make the MA any more so I'm figuring a few years old anyways.