Any tips on finding the right brace height?

[Kaluza]

I just got a 45# Samick Sage 62'' recently and am new to archery. I'm having difficulty finding the right brace height. I read that I should try shooting with different amounts of twists in the string and listen for the quietest shots/ feel for the least bow-hand shock. The Sage's recommended brace height is between 7.5 and 8.5''. I went all between there in increments of 3 twists and never really noticed a significant change in shock or noise. Any tips?

[lpcjon2]

Do you have string silencers on it?

[macbow]

I don't have one to compare.
But in general I would start about 7 3/4". Since you didn't notice much difference through out the range.

This would give you a little longer power stroke which is desirable.

[McDave]

I would guess you should start at 8", the midrange point.  But that's only 1/4" away from Macbow's recommendation, so I can't argue with him either.  Anywhere around there will be fine to start with.  Later on, you may notice that raising it or lowering it a tad might make a difference in the performance of the bow, but it might be too subtle for you to notice now.

[Paul_R]

Going in 3 twist intervals I don't imagine I would notice much difference either, it would be too gradual. Try 10-12 twist intervals.

[Kaluza]

Originally posted by lpcjon2:
Do you have string silencers on it?

Indeed I do.

[lpcjon2]

do as mentioned above and remember that a new string will stretch and you will have to adjust the brace after a hundred shots or so.

[Stumpkiller]

Start at 1/8th of the AMO (in your case 62"/8 or 7-3/4") and add or subtract in 1/4" increments to between 7-1/4" and 8-1/2" until you get a quiet shot.  Lower adds power and higher is usually quieter.  You trade one for the other.

There is no such thing as a free lunch.

[karrow]

Paul has good advice. try to shoot a few arrows at 7.5 BH then go to 8.5 it will be easier to hear and feel any change. i would also say some where in the mid range will be a good starting point.

[Stephengiles]

Do you know your arrow weight? I have a red stag and it likes a fairly heavy arrow. Also if it's an over the counter type string just go ahead and plan on getting a good one. Even a good string isn't fairly expensive and would almost certainly help.

[luvnlongbow]

Here's how I determine proper brace height: Start with proper spine arrows then shoot. Check arrow flight and adjust brace height according to whether or not arrow flight indicates weak or stiff. All adjustments are made with-in the recommended brace height range given by the bowyer or manufacture. Of course this is just my way of determining proper brace height.

[Brock]

some questions....

- you started as I do with bowyer recommendations.

- I try the lowest setting first...then I try the highest setting and see which seems to be quietest..both in string noise, limb slap if recurve, and what my arrows like..as string can affect arrow performance.

- If I use silencers...which I do..I install them about 7-9 inches from each string loop.

- Then I just shoot the bow a couple hundred shots not worrying about the brace height. Whatever I started on I keep it there during this time as string is stretching and settling in...every 10 shots I measure brace height and set it to the starting height just for consistency.

- After string is shot in...whether 10 shots or 200...then if glass bow I leave it strung over night after putting more wax on it and burnishing it in with piece of leather.  If Selbow I just wax it and unstring afterwards.

- Then next day I check starting brace height to start where it was and go outside and shoot three arrows.  Note where arrows impact...sound of arrow if it is striking rest or strikeplate...arrow flight..etc.  I write some notes...and move to next.

- I usually do about 6-8 twists..whatever can get me a 1/2 inch move in braceheight.  I want it to be enough to make a difference.  If no perceptive difference in shooting happens I move it another half inch.  Usually by now something changes...

- Once it goes in opposite direction I want I go back to my notes and put it where I THINK might work.

- I shoot here for a couple evenings...checking brace height every few shots and really getting used to arrow reaction...sound...etc.

-  Next time I shoot I work in 3 twists at a time up.....until I reach 1/2 inch.  If nothing stands out...then I go back to starting height from today and work down 1/2 inch.  If nothing stands out I leave it where it is.

-  I am not a fan of the small increments from beginning....you need to get used to bow and sounds and arrow flight as long as you know your arrows are CLOSE to what you need.  I want to notice changes...once I have an upper and lower limit...split the difference and that is my real start.

- In the end it may change what you need based on form, how good your release is, weather, etc....


- you noticed nothing in sound...so now I would work on making sure you got good arrow flight. If you still have nothing negative...leave it there and shoot it like that until either you find something...or you realize maybe it likes a broader range than some bows and shoot whatever makes you happy.


Start with good arrow spines.....find extremes....split the difference...then move 1/2 inch either way to confirm....the small increments to fine tune.  some times you just got to shoot the thing!  

[John Nail]

Brace height is more about arrow flight than noise or shock. Is the arrow flying like the proverbial dart, or is the feathered end wagging  in one direction or another? What arrow shaft are you using? 1916 aluminum should be about right for it. Also, you say you're new to archery, so how are you measuring brace height? It should be measured from the lowest part of the grip ( where the web of your hand would be )to the string

[Kaluza]

Originally posted by John Nail:
Brace height is more about arrow flight than noise or shock. Is the arrow flying like the proverbial dart, or is the feathered end wagging  in one direction or another? What arrow shaft are you using? 1916 aluminum should be about right for it. Also, you say you're new to archery, so how are you measuring brace height? It should be measured from the lowest part of the grip ( where the web of your hand would be )to the string

I am using Carbon Express Heritage 250s. They are 32.75'' and have 125gr tips. I have about a 29.5'' draw. Not sure if this is what I should be using or not... That is how I was measuring brace height though.

[Bobby Urban]

Lower it a little at a time until the bow gets loose - you will know.  Raise it back until it shoots well.  Every bow will be a little different so any suggestion - even from the bowyer is just that: a suggestion.  It will vary from shooter to shooter and arrow set up choice but the one constant is the lower it performs well - the more you will get from your bow.

[Timbuck2]

I had two Sages and shot both @ 8 1/4" brace.

[damascusdave]

Did you have the silencers on the string while adjusting the brace height?

DDave

[hart2hart]

Pre-stretch the string between a secure anchor and something you can really grasp.(I use my arrow straightener..wooden dowel with an open eye hook in end)
Start a little high on BH,,shoot,then untwist 2 twist and shoot again.I do this til the limbs just start vibrating a little after shot.
Replace those last 2 twist and you are close to sweet spot.watch arrow flight..moveable nock point helps.

[T-Bowhunter]

Welcome!

[hvyhitter]

You stated that you ere new to archery. Just set the brace height in the middle and shoot for a while. Untill your form and release get very consistant fine tunng your bow with brace height isnt going to do much until you get everything else in order.........when your form gets dialed in you will start to notice the subtle differences..........