Wood arrows

[the rifleman]

I'm new to making wood arrows and had a couple of questions:

In order for me to be able to tune my nocks to align the grain properly and the feathers so they best clear my bow's riser I need to temporarily adhere them to the shaft during the cresting, fletching process.  I have used craft glue dots but they don't hold the nock well enough to ensure it doesn't move when fletching.  How do you guys do it?

Also I want to bare shaft tune the wood shafts, but again the glue dots don't hold well enough to prevent the nocks from shattering (bad situation).  If I glue with Duco the nock is on for good and I would not be able to rotate nock on finished arrow to correct position before gluing.

Any help is appreciated.

[Pat B]

You align wood arrows so the grain lines are against the bow and the grain flames face forward. Build your arrows that way but don't fletch them until you bare shaft them. The only real tuning you do is cut the arrow shorter or add more or less point weight.

[the rifleman]

Thanks---My fletching jig does not allow me to adjust position of feathers---just spaces 30 degrees apart---not a problem with adjustable nocks as I can rotate them once fletched.  but it would not position them properly for my bow if I glued nocks on first.  This is why I am trying to affix them temporarily so I can index the nock so feathers align correctly for my bow before gluing permanently.

[ChuckC]

This is something that many find objectionable.

Lots just jam them on (for fletching) or put just a tiny dot of glue or wax on the taper, but if you are gonna bare shaft tune them you need to secure the nock well.  

I am guessing that you need to designate some arrows for testing and just fletch those as is

or

I think most, or at least many on here will advise you NOT to bare shaft tune woodies.  Just tune them with fletching in place.

I have had some bad reactions to woodies hitting the backstop in a less than perfect line.

ChuckC

[Brently]

That is right.  If you like to buy wood shafts, bare shaft tune them.  Voice of experience.

[Caughtandhobble]

I have found that tuning woodies, it is best to broadhead tune with the same weight broadhead as field point... Like mentioned if your bare shaft is too stiff or weak it will break everytime.

[moebow]

rifleman,

I'm not really understanding the problem.  As Pat says, the grain simply is perpendicular to the bow.  So once dipped and/or crested, simply glue the nocks on (permanently). With the nocks on, in th proper orientation, you can bare shaft (I NEVER do that though)then fletch.  Always be sure to get the cock feather in the correct place(as an extension of the annual growth rings) and the rest will be where they need to be.

Sounds like you are making it much harder than it needs to be.

Arne

[frankwright]

I use a tight fitting nock and just stick it on. I do make a small alignment mark with a pencil on the nock and arrow just in case it should come off but it never does.
You may have to try a different nock to find ones that will stay on with no glue.

[Triphammer]

I believe rifleman is alluding to the need to rotate the fletched shaft to reduce/ eliminate  contact w/ his bow. I've seen this as necessary with vanes but unneeded with feathers.

[30coupe]

I can't fathom why you would shoot woodies without gluing on the nock! Seems like an excellent way to dry fire your bow. Glue it on so the grain runs correctly, put the arrow in your fletching jig and glue on the feathers. I don't know what kind of jig you have but mine aligns the feathers to the nock.

I don't recommend bare shafting wooden arrows. In fact, I don't bare shaft any of them. I paper tune or broadhead tune them. I prefer paper tuning for all shaft types.

[Pat B]

If your fletching is hitting your bow either the feathers are too tall or you don't have a properly spined arrow. When shot the feathers lay down somewhat and with proper archers paradox the arrow goes around the bow without touching the bow.

[Bud B.]

Do you mind telling us your bow make/model/style, bow weight at your draw, your arrow length, and your spine/fletching combo and point weight?

I also understand your nock question as I like my arrow fletch turned just a bit differently than the standard nock/cock feather alignment given by the jigs, but, as I now turn cock feather in it doesn't matter, but, grain orientation to your shooting style can be a consideration (cock feather in towards riser means slightly different grain runout).

I have pressed the nock onto the wood shaft to place the nocks on after fletching like I prefer, but, marking both nock and shaft to reorient if it comes loose while fletching is needed. Make sure you glue them on permanently after getting all the fletching in place.


Merry Christmas!!

[Swamp Yankee]

All you can tune is length and point weight.  If I felt the need to fine tune feather location I'd just tack the nocks on a couple of finished shafts with a drop of glue for bare shaft tuning, then remove them for fletching.  You can easily fletch as needed with the nocks just pressed on without glue, then glue them on in line with the grain after fletching.  Personally, I've never had a problem with feather alignment; only vanes.

[hitman]

If you are wanting to bare shaft, just glue nock on and when you are done cut it off.Nocks are cheap.

[the rifleman]

Thank you all for the responses.  This was very helpful.  I like the idea of making the nock/arrow for indexing issues.  I do find that feather orientation gives me a cleaner off the shelf so will use this trick to hold nocks on while fletching and then final glue them before shooting.  Sounds like most agree bareshafting woodies may not be productive.  

Bud B my set up is a 58 inch Toelke RD Whip  50# at 28 inches---I draw 27".  I shoot Left handed.  This bow shoots great with beman mfx 600s and gold tip 1535s full length with from 200 to 275 grns up front.  The bow wants a weakly spined carbon.  I know this may have much to do with my release.  I'm guessing bow weight at my draw is around 47#s.  I shoot 3 under.  The woodies I'm currently working with are spined 45-50 23/64 with a 5/16 taper on fletching end.  They are cut to 29" BOP to back of point taper.  I use 4.75 inch shield cut (home ground and burned turkey feathers--began trimming leading edge of quill once fletched as I think this was causing them to kick and unconfortttalble on bow hand).  The are around 5/8 tall at back end.  Started out using 145 grs up front and have begun using 160 as arrows at first were hitting to the right (I shoot left handed and took this to mean they were too stiff).  The seem to be grouping pretty well to center at my modest 18 yard range.  Hope this helps.
Thanks again for everyone taking the time to respond.
Merry Christmas.  John

[hitman]

Where are you in Ohio?

[myshootinstinks]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I've never bare-shafted cedars. After cut, taper, stain, & crest, I simply set the shafts in my spine tester and glue the nocks at the most consistent spine, which is usually, but not always, where the grain lines are directly against the bow. I glue the nocks on right then and there. Shafts are now ready for fletching.

[hogless]

Nock alinment should be perpendicular to the grain you can rotate the the fletch on the shaft but the nock should stay perpendicular to the grain

[the rifleman]

Hitman,  I'm in Orient/Harrisburg area about 20 minutes south of Columbus.

[hitman]

ok. I'm just across river from Gallipolis.