Cleaning glue on broadheads before mounting...what chemical?

[threeunder]

What does everyone use to clean your glue on heads before mounting them to adaptors?

[Fletcher]

I use acetone or isopropal alcohol when mounting to wood shafts.

[Rossco7002]

I don't use anything - just hit the inside of the ferrule with the torch.... Seems to work fine.

[Tree Killer]

I do the torch in the ferrule routine as well. But I glue mine points directly to wood.

[monterey]

Originally posted by threeunder:
What does everyone use to clean your glue on heads before mounting them to adaptors?

I also do the torch method but mainly am not that concerned about it.  OTOH, am using ferltite(sp).  If you are using some other type of glue it might make a difference.

[Terry Lightle]

Acetone

[katman]

Denatured alcohol

[darin putman]

I use the torch, also use a reamer tool used for plugging tires to aid in removal of old epoxy.

[J.T.]

I have a tapered wire brush that fits in a drill think I bought it from three rivers

[Alexander Traditional]

I use a degreaser,like a brake cleaner that you can get at an auto parts store. It takes all residue off the metal. I also heat the broadhead and the adapter as stated above.

[Dave Lay]

like alexander trad said  heating the point as well as the insert before glueing up is important, I just heat my heads to loosen any old glue. on new ones I still heat them to get any paint etc off the mounting area if using adaptors or woodies that have been mounted to previously I always heat it and get the old glue off before mounting

[Shakes.602]

Acetone is the Best I have found. If You  REALLY  want your Points to stay on, us JB Weld. When you want them removed, just apply a Wee bit of Heat. They Slide right off! Just my 2 Cents.  

[threeunder]

Hate to hi-jack my own thread, but what JB Weld do you guys recommend?

[monterey]

Have never had a ferr l tite glued broadhead come loose.  Might have lost a few field tips in the target butts but very very few.  Just can't bring myself to use anything that hardens like conventional glue.  I know a few wheelie guys who epoxy their points on but to me that just eliminates any simple change ups in weight or point type.

[TxAg]

Acetone then epoxy

[Arraflinger]

Been using Ferr l tite for nearly 50 years with no problems. Heat from the torch will eliminate any residue. Archery and bowhunting used to be simple, seems like we tend to complicate things.Ferr l tite is EASY, and it's easy to switch heads in the field

[Charlie Lamb]

I don't care for the torch method. Any residue in new points is oil. It burns dirty. Note the color of flame that comes out of the ferrule when heated... yellow. It can't help but leave it's own residue.

I put all mine in a little jar of acetone for a bit then swab out the ferrules with paper towels until they come out clean.

[mooseman1967]

I like to coil up some 120 grit sandpaper in a cone shape and ream the ferrule then blow it out. Seems to do a good job of cleaning it out and rough's up the surface to be glued. Since doing this I haven't lost any points except a couple shot into stumps that were a lot harder than I thought. Dave

[Brock]

for field points I use sandpaper and then torch....for broadheads I dont do anything.

never saw a broadhead come loose or come off while being shot...maybe if pulling out of a target or tree but even then never saw one come off unless it was stuck hard.  I dont wast time cleaning ferrules on broadheads....my intent is to only have them go through an animal one way.

The one I use for pratice is shot into foam target or sand...and that has never pulled it off on any arrow.

[Stumpkiller]

I clamp a paint-stripper style heat-gun lightly in a vice (pointing upward) and hold the broadhead in the heat with a pair of parallel jaw pliers.

While that's heating up I hold end of a hot-melt glue stick in the heat to soften as well.  Dab that on the shaft and slide the hot broadhead on while teisting.

First time out of the package I use 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils.