Leather Boots and Water Proofness

[Kevin Hansen]

Tons of good info and opinions. They are all appreciated. Generally my experiences seem to be right in line with what the rest of you have experienced with the various type of boots. I agree with the mantra that there is no one boot perfect in all conditions. The key is choosing the correct boot for the hunt...very well said.
Anyone else care to chime in?
Thanks.

[lt-m-grow]

Originally posted by Bladepeek:
I'll stick with my GoreTex thanks. I had a pair of Meindl hikers that I used to run in every morning in Germany. Resoled them 3 times over a 14 year period. When the 3rd set of Vibram soles was worn down, I could still stand in the shallows at our lake and they were dry. With a pair of wool socks on it sure seemed to me they still breathed. The seams got to looking pretty ratty so I gave them a decent burial and bought a new pair from Cabala's.

I wear the uninsulated hikers for everything except cold weather sitting. For that, I have a pair of insulated high top Meindls that keep me toasty warm. Both are water-proof and I never get the sweating I get from rubber boots.

 

X2 Only pair of waterproof boots that ever worked for me. Seriously.  I understand what folks say about gotex and generally agree, but Meindl's has it figure out.

And I also agree on rubber boots...yes they are waterproof, but I sweat so much that I am wet from the inside...that does no  good.

[nleroux2]

If your budget will allow, you can't beat a pair of Russell Moccasin's Grand Slam Sheep Hunter boots. All leather, handmade to measure, full leather lining and absolutely water proof. Any leather boot will require upkeep but it's not hard.

Just a tip. When you use wax based products, warm the boots with a handheld hair dryer, apply the product, then heat the wax to help the leather absorb it. Particularly at the welt area and seams.

[Kevin Dill]

Worth saying...

The guy who oversees production on Schnee's boots recently told me to seal my boot seams ONLY with Seam Grip sealant. His advice was to be sure the leather is dry and clear of surface waxes, greases, etc. Apply the Seam Grip as directed. Reapply it every two years on average. I would assume the same product would be fine for Russell boots. As far as dressings go, I follow the maker's advice every time. For an all-leather non-Gore-Tex boot, I give them a thorough application right before a hunt. I recommend you carry a small container of dressing with you, if going where water could be a constant. Apply it midway through the hunt.

[Dave Lay]

Originally posted by Tajue17:
 

Originally posted by knobby:
I agree with Hummer. The toilet seal wax really works.

you talking the wax ring for the toilet flange? [/b]

yes  good cheap soft wax...

[Hummer3T]

Yes the toilet ring wax is the stuff that goes around the flange and sticks and seals the bottom of the toilet to the drain and creates a floor seal.  I treated several pairs including my vasques, it works great, need to be done spring and fall if boots are wore a lot, I use a heat gun to apply.

[Dave Lay]

Originally posted by nleroux2:

Just a tip. When you use wax based products, warm the boots with a handheld hair dryer, apply the product, then heat the wax to help the leather absorb it. Particularly at the welt area and seams.

x2  I will open the oven door with it on low and set the boots on the door and let the wax or other sealer warm up

[Brock]

i just use pitch blend on my leather

[Kevin Hansen]

Thanks, all. Good stuff!

[Longbowz]

No leather boot will stay completely waterproof forever, no matter what the manufacturer says.

I've used SnoSeal, Montana Pitch blend and the like in the past but now use Obenauf's.  It's quite a bit better in every respect.  Most of these brands were developed in the northwest where wet conditions are the norm.  But even with the best of treatment sooner or later in really wet conditions an all leather boot will get wet.  That's what rubber boots are made for.

[BowsnLabs]

How Does putting heavy waterproof treatments on leather (Pitch Blend, SnoSeal, etc) affect breathability?  Seems like it would have a negative impact but I don't have much experience here.

[Kevin Hansen]

Good question. I have always wondered that, too. Looking forward to others' experiences.

[MnFn]

Meindls, Obenauf and silicon spray worked very well this past year. Liners and good wool socks also.

[Chain2]

I use the Red Wing stuff. Looks like Sno Seal but goes on alot easier and you don't heat. I am in and out all day, where I get alot of thawing and my feet are dry.

[cacciatore]

Hunting from a tent in the Rockies isn't like to come back home everynight.
I had any kind of weather and also GT don't last many days dry in wet snow or wet grass. I find the Meidle to be some of the best boots for the Mountain,but to be completely waterproof they don't have to have many miles on the soles.
If I wear my lovely Russell,I change them every other day.
Also giving the the best of the cares they don't stay dry for more than 2 days in a row,but I love them anyway.

[Brock]

breathability and waterproofness does not usually go hand in hand unless using one of the new space age materials similar to GoreTex...but dirty goretex will leak like a siv...as the water will soak through the membrane using the dirt as the transfer agent...it has to be clean.  With boots you cant clean it so sweat and stuff makes it ineffective after a few months in my opinion and experience.

I prefer rubber boots for total waterproofness...but if wearing Bean styled boots with leather uppers I will treat them with PitchBlend.

I clean them first then at room temp rub a good coat of Pitch Blend on them everywhere...sewing seams, edges, tongue, gusset, uppers, etc.

Then get hair dryer and heat them until they soak in all the pitch blend....then while still warm I rub another coat on them.  Repeat with hair dryer.

I do this three or four times or until it wont soak any more.  Let sit couple hours to cool and then get a rag and wipe off any excess PB that is squeezed back out the pores when they shrink from cooling.

THat is as waterproof as you can get and will last a full season or two before you will want to heat them up and add another coat but will only take one coat usually after that...and smells nice too.

I have not tried the Muck boots..might be best of both worlds...but I know PitchBlend works great....

[Keith Zimmerman]

Like Felix said, I bring a couple pair of boots when I hunt and switch every day.  My Russells have always kept my feet dry.

[Longbowz]

Any kind of dressing will cut down on breathability, so put more on when it's wet and less on when it's hot and dry.

[Bear Heart]

I am thinking meindle boots with a few two tracks wool insoles could be the key this year.

[Brock]

can always get military styled jungle boots....then a couple pairs of SealSkinz...waterproof socks.  Water drains out of boots...feet stay dry from SealSkinz.