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Author Topic: Stingray and beaver tail grips  (Read 686 times)

Offline Bladepeek

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 3318
Re: Stingray and beaver tail grips
« Reply #20 on: February 05, 2014, 06:47:00 PM »
Stingray also breaks the tip off your leather awl if you try to sew it. Guess how I know that   :)
60" Bear Super K LH 40#@28
69" Matt Meacham LH 42@28
66" Swift Wing LH 35@28
54" Java Man Elk Heart LH 43@28
62"/58" RER LXR LH 44/40@28

Offline DaveV

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  • Posts: 46
Re: Stingray and beaver tail grips
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2014, 12:19:00 PM »
I found a nice piece of Stingray leather at my local Tandy store. Looks like just the right size and shape for a custom arm guard. How do you suggest using it? Can it be punched for laces? Stitched to a backing leather? Or is glue the best option?

(It's still at the store, until I know what to do with the stuff)
Rudderbows selfbow,1959 Herters recurve, Toelke Whip, and just added a Hoyt ProVantage warf conversion to the mix.

Offline Paul_R

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 448
Re: Stingray and beaver tail grips
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2014, 12:37:00 PM »
The stuff I've seen at Tandy is very soft and thin and in my opinion it would need to be backed for an armguard. I suppose it   could be punched and sewn but those pebbles being hard bone it's going to be hard on your punches (as Bladepeek alluded to) and I think it would be best as an inlay. The underside is smooth skin and takes glue nicely. That Tandy stuff is also pretty pricy compared to what's available online.
"My opinion is free and worth every penny"

Offline DaveV

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 46
Re: Stingray and beaver tail grips
« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2014, 12:56:00 PM »
Inlay, hmmm...
Rudderbows selfbow,1959 Herters recurve, Toelke Whip, and just added a Hoyt ProVantage warf conversion to the mix.

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